CX-5 Rear Hatch Manual Opening Tool

I am currently involved in 2 discussions regarding CX-5 dead batteries.

Being a clever fellow, I stashed a lithium jump start battery under the rear cargo floor, with the tire, for just such an occasion.

An unfortunate by-product of dead batteries, is the rear hatch can longer be opened with the push of a button. Not clever enough it would seem, with no easy access to the jumper battery.

You have to pull the spare key from the fob, open the driver's door, open the passenger door, fold down the rear seat, wrap a screwdriver with a towel (Mazda recommendation), crawl into the cargo area, pry off an access panel on the rear hatch, push a little lever to the right, open the rear hatch, and crawl out.

It would have been so much appreciated if Mazda would have installed a key lock on the rear hatch (like the driver's door), so the spare key could open the hatch from the outside.

My wife and I went out today to go through all these steps to be sure it all worked as expected. I found the "wrap a towel around a screwdriver" part to be open to a better solution. I dug through my garage and quickly found a little plastic pry tool that came with the dash cam I installed in the Mazda.

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I should have put a quarter next to the tool for scale. It's about 5 inches long.

The narrow end of the tool fits in the slot on the access cover to pry open. (A bit fiddly, but not difficult).

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With the cover off, there is a white plastic, vertical lever that needs to be pushed/pivoted to the right. I was a bit disappointed that there was no knob or an extended ear to grab to push the lever. I looked at the pry tool, spun it around to the wide end, put it on the left side of the lever, then pushed to the right. Trying to push on the right side of the lever with your fingers, is again a bit fiddly, as the lever sits very close to part of the locking mechanism. The tool made it simpler and easier.

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After I finished, I tossed the tool into the glove box for easy future access, as my "wrapping towel and screwdriver" are under the cargo floor with the tire. A dead battery also means no access to my tool box.

If you don't have any leftover dash cam tools, these sort of pry tools can be found at auto parts stores or Amazon.

Hopefully this is useful for other CX-5 owners.

Cheers, TR
 
TR: FYI-one of those “jump start boxes” hardly even turned the engine over when my wife’s battery died. It took a proper jump start from my recently replaced (and much more powerful) Mazda 3 battery to get it going.
 
TR: FYI-one of those “jump start boxes” hardly even turned the engine over when my wife’s battery died. It took a proper jump start from my recently replaced (and much more powerful) Mazda 3 battery to get it going.

Paris1, Yeah, when a battery goes down hard, the handy little jump start batteries are not always up to the task. I've had really good luck with mine. My daughter has the same starter battery and is about 50/50 with it.

I like the starter batteries because they are compact, I don't have to find another vehicle to connect to, and if I am nosed in to a parking spot, I don't need to worry about getting another vehicle withing cable reach.

That said, it's probably best to carry both jumper cables and a starter battery. Belt and suspenders.

TR
 
Those jump batteries are not all equal… had a cheap one that was worthless in the past.

I’ve had this one fire up a 5.7L V8s. It even has an override that will work if battery is completely dead.

 
Wow, reminds me of a problem I had recently with my '07 BMW. The locking system failed and none of the doors would unlock. I used the metal key stored in the fob to open the driver's door but could not open any other doors, even from inside the car. The problem turned out to be a blown fuse but the fuse box is located behind the glove box and is normally accessed by opening the passenger door. But the passenger door couldn't be opened so I had to lay a blanket over the center console and worm my way into position. It was still almost impossible to get a hand all the way in and through the back of the glove box to reach the fuse box. It took me several hours to check the three fuses that are associated with the locking system.
 
Wow, reminds me of a problem I had recently with my '07 BMW. The locking system failed and none of the doors would unlock. I used the metal key stored in the fob to open the driver's door but could not open any other doors, even from inside the car. The problem turned out to be a blown fuse but the fuse box is located behind the glove box and is normally accessed by opening the passenger door. But the passenger door couldn't be opened so I had to lay a blanket over the center console and worm my way into position. It was still almost impossible to get a hand all the way in and through the back of the glove box to reach the fuse box. It took me several hours to check the three fuses that are associated with the locking system.
Aye Carrumba!

I didn't consider that I might not be able to manually unlock the rear passenger door to gain access to the cargo area. Having to crawl from the front seat to the rear cargo area would require gymnastics that exceed my skill set, considering my age and physical condition.

Just putting a simple key lock on the rear hatch, as has been the norm in previous decades, would prevent these ridiculous physical gyrations. MAZDAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!! (ala Captain Kirk)
 
Those jump batteries are not all equal… had a cheap one that was worthless in the past.

I’ve had this one fire up a 5.7L V8s. It even has an override that will work if battery is completely dead.

I have one of the 750 amp jump starters from Harbor Freight. It's too big to stow in the spare tire compartment but it will do the job depending on if you charge it up frequently (every 45 days).
I leave it in the back hatch area.
 
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