Well, I stuck the CS downpipe on today, as I was stuck at home all day. It did take...all day...to do this beeotch of a job. Making things worse was the butter steel the O2s are made of so that, despite major care, both did nice jobs buggering their threads coming out. When quoted over $500 to replace them, I got busy with a small diamond grit triangle file and dressed those threads enough to get them to work again.
Other bothers, nothing to hold the wideband O2's wiring away from the pipe. I took one of the little curly thingies off the stock DP and mounted it on the bottom bolt of the hot side heat shield and that made me feel better. Also, using bolts and nuts to mount the pipe to the cat adds a degree of annoyance as, you have to get two tools in there, one to hold the nut and one to tighten the bolt, whereas, the stock flange is properly threaded and has shoulder stops on the bolts to tell you when to stop wrenching.
Butt dyno shows this doesn't instantly turn the car into a Bugatti Veyron or anything but, it is markedly smoother when loaded down low. It is also less explosively torquey at 3k and more evenly torquey all through the rev range. Turbo spoolup is markedly quicker, probably twice as fast as with the stock downpipe.
My other mods are an AEM CAI and Forge BPV. All in all, there is payoff in doing this job but, it is a hell of a job and you need to be prepared for that. I have 25 years + of experience and collected tools so, it's hardly beyond me but, it rates as a bit of a b**** by my own standards.