CS DP install

CorkSport

2010 Mazdaspeed 3
Authorized Vendor
:
All Mazdas!
I am glad you like the power increae with the CorkSport downpipe.

The install is an SOB though. There are two cars which are worse though the 4wd Cx7 and the Mazdaspeed 6.

-Derrick
 
I'd rate the intake as the greatest single power boost of the things I've tried so far. The DP and the BPV have been more driveability, smoothness and enjoyment improvers. I've always felt this engine lacked some refinement as delivered and especially when modified with a CAI or SRI. The DP and the BPV have made the engine smoother, more powerful and easier to drive, better matching the improved inlet flow of the CAI on the outlet side.
 
its going to take some miles and days for the ecu to learn the dp is there...you will notice more gains as the days and miles pass
 
Well, I stuck the CS downpipe on today, as I was stuck at home all day. It did take...all day...to do this beeotch of a job. Making things worse was the butter steel the O2s are made of so that, despite major care, both did nice jobs buggering their threads coming out. When quoted over $500 to replace them, I got busy with a small diamond grit triangle file and dressed those threads enough to get them to work again.

Other bothers, nothing to hold the wideband O2's wiring away from the pipe. I took one of the little curly thingies off the stock DP and mounted it on the bottom bolt of the hot side heat shield and that made me feel better. Also, using bolts and nuts to mount the pipe to the cat adds a degree of annoyance as, you have to get two tools in there, one to hold the nut and one to tighten the bolt, whereas, the stock flange is properly threaded and has shoulder stops on the bolts to tell you when to stop wrenching.

Butt dyno shows this doesn't instantly turn the car into a Bugatti Veyron or anything but, it is markedly smoother when loaded down low. It is also less explosively torquey at 3k and more evenly torquey all through the rev range. Turbo spoolup is markedly quicker, probably twice as fast as with the stock downpipe.

My other mods are an AEM CAI and Forge BPV. All in all, there is payoff in doing this job but, it is a hell of a job and you need to be prepared for that. I have 25 years + of experience and collected tools so, it's hardly beyond me but, it rates as a bit of a b**** by my own standards.
 
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it took me 4 hours to do mine. i have a great lift so it was easier havig it at head height. as far as the wire for the obd2 i used the curly wire holder and bolted it to the heat shield and ran it around the heat shield. the wire is heat shielded itself so away from the dp is sufficient. i thought the change was super dramatic. most noticable mod ive done so far anyway besides my tune....but thats more than one change. idk...i think this mod is super worth it and fun to do! pain in the ass but i love working on cars so i thought it to be fun.
 
Will keep looking for "future gains" I did reset the ECU before firing this up.

Weird how I started this thread with my install report and posts are getting moved around above me, now some of my replies are before my report, lol
 
i have the stock cat back but the 2nd cat is a highflow mini cat. full power gains from the exhaust with the highflow and sounds like amonster on WOT. i love it.
 
i have the CS down pipe and turbo back exhaust and it sounds like an animal. but that downpipe is a SOB! that one bolt you need midget hands with midget tools to get to lol. (anyone who has the CS DP knows what im talking about) but the exhaust fit flawlessly.
 
You just gotta leave the flange loosely pulled out and tighten that nut first.

I love the instructions to torque these nuts to WHY. No way in hell you're going to get a torque wrench onto some of these nuts so, 25-year-experience- calibrated fingo-meter it was for me. (yes)

Two of the nuts came out with the stud attached, too so, that makes specified torque values meaningless anyway.
 
I have a different brand DP/RP combo, but after carefully inspecting the location of those turbo studs and reading a couple of how-to horror stories about stripped studs, oxygen sensor nightmares and such, I outsourced the remove and replace to a performance exhaust shop we have a business relationship with. They do the exhaust work on a lot of race cars in this area, and were not bothered that it was catless. This is a race car, wink, wink.

We have our own shop, lifts and just about every hand tool and power tool imaginable for automotive work, and I've been modding for four decades. I just felt more comfortable having exhaust pros that do this every day do this job. Because of our relationship, I was allowed under the car while they worked. As you know, even after getting the IC off, you have to do part of the job from the top and part from the bottom. It took them four hours with two guys working to get it done. Fit was perfect, no threads were buggered, nothing broken or bent, but it was a b****. Lots of colorful language employed by all of us, but the results are magnificant.

Darth, after your ECU adjusts you will really notice the difference if you take it to the strip. Watch what happens to your trap speed compared to the intake alone!
 
I hope so, somedays an older gent like me needs every advantage to pick off the kids at the track (shady)

I left the stock cat 2 in for emissions inspection and not wanting to push the stock tune/PCV system too hard. Hopefully that doesn't cork it up too much.

Right now, I'm enjoying the increased smoothness and the fact you can't really tell how many cylinders this car has anymore.

I have a mega-supply of tools as well and facility to get the car up off the ground too. Everyone just needs to prepared to do alot of up and down in getting the job done. I was reminded why I cut back on doing this work and, primarily, why I sold my race car this summer...kinda sick of constantly wrenching on things. I still have this car for do-it-all and a brutal newer litrebike if I want to go really fast.
 

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