So heard back from corporate today, they are only willing to assist with $2,000. & told me I need to call dealer to discuss pricing, when I was told the reason I have waited about 3 weeks now, was because they were asking the dealer for pricing. The dealer gave me the original $11k estimate. So it doesn’t look like Mazda is really willing to help at all. Now what in the world do I do.
Cracked Cylinder Head (2018 CX-9)
- Thread starter Ty17
- Start date
Have you heard back, & or made any progress with Mazda at all? I have waited 3 weeks, & finally got a ridiculous response today.
Joined Mazda247 to add to this thread. 2018 CX-9, cracked head, 106k miles. Louisville, KY dealership quote $6800 for head replacement. They say engine is fine. Mazda took 2 weeks to decide to decline assistance. They actually asked the dealership if they would "goodwill".
Not sure what to do now. Trade in is 19k unbroken. I owe 11k on the note. I am going to get a non dealership estimate.
Not sure what to do now. Trade in is 19k unbroken. I owe 11k on the note. I am going to get a non dealership estimate.
I have a 2018 Mazda 6, was told needed a new engine replacement, dealer estimate over $11k. Only have 56,000 miles, but power train expired 2 months ago, because of the 5 year mark. Mazda refuses to do a goodwill repair. I owe 8k on the car still. Begged & pleaded with dealer & corporate for assistance. Got the dealer price down to $6,+, but my new concern is, I’m being told that I will be getting a basically new engine block. No one can guarantee me if this is a new and improved version. I sure hate to out-of-pocket thousands of dollars to end up with the same exact problem again this is just the worst experience ever. I wish you good luck, & fill out the form for the class action suit.
Here is a screenshot of the parts listing for the new cylinder head:
You can see how many previous versions this one supersedes. You'll get the current version head, where the problem started, as well as the current version of the short block (the engine below the head) which was damaged by running while overheated.
Notice to everyone....Watch the engine temperature. If it rises above the normal point pull over at the very first safe opportunity, park, call a tow truck. Save the rest of the engine from damage.
I carry an emergency kit. I carry a card of cooling system sealant tablets, a pint of water, and a gallon of coolant. If my engine temperature rises I'll stop and let it cool. I'll mix the sealant into the bottle of water, add that to the radiator, and add the gallon of coolant. (Unless the sealant instructions has different instructions.) For more information about coolant sealant call a sealant company...Bar's Leaks, tel: 800-345-6572.
You can see how many previous versions this one supersedes. You'll get the current version head, where the problem started, as well as the current version of the short block (the engine below the head) which was damaged by running while overheated.
Notice to everyone....Watch the engine temperature. If it rises above the normal point pull over at the very first safe opportunity, park, call a tow truck. Save the rest of the engine from damage.
I carry an emergency kit. I carry a card of cooling system sealant tablets, a pint of water, and a gallon of coolant. If my engine temperature rises I'll stop and let it cool. I'll mix the sealant into the bottle of water, add that to the radiator, and add the gallon of coolant. (Unless the sealant instructions has different instructions.) For more information about coolant sealant call a sealant company...Bar's Leaks, tel: 800-345-6572.
I just had the same experience. Add me to the list please.
This is just nuts. This guy knows nothing except how to fleece customers. The lower engine, the short block, is not the problem. The problem is the old design cylinder heads that cannot handle the weight of the turbocharger and exhaust manifold.
The symptom of the problem is the cracked head that lets coolant leak out. #2 symptom is the damaged short block after the lack of coolant causes the engine to overheat, the head warps, and remaining coolant gets into the oil system and wipes bearings.
The solution is to put a new design cylinder head on a good short block, including yours if you haven't yet overheated to the point of getting coolant into the oil system.
The bandaid is to watch the coolant temperature. If the needle rises stop in the first, the very first, safe place. Let the engine cool. Add water. Add stop leak if you can get some. Limp home adding water as needed. Go to a dealership or independent shop and get that new design head installed.
I spoke with a salesman who formerly worked at a Mazda store. He used the words, "when, not if," the engine will break and lose the coolant. I will feel no guilt if I need to use stop leak in my engine to get to a different brand store of the same owner I bought my Mazda from and trade it in on something else. Loyalty is a two way street. If the maker and the seller are loyal to the customer, I'll be loyal to them. If not, then no. I'm still waiting for Mazda's loyalty to their customers. (I experienced Mazda's bad design when I needed expensive brake replacement and rear caliper replacement at 52,000 miles due to the calipers that did not fully release the parking brake. It was Mazda's mistake, and I paid for it. There is a technical service bulletin for these brakes, but compensation ends with the warranty.)
The bulletin about this issue went out to the dealerships long ago. Had Mazda Canada provided me with information about the cylinder heads possibly cracking, I would have sold the vehicle long before anything happened. But because they did not share this information, up front I am now stuck with a bill and MC offered to pay for parts. Still not good enough in my opinion.
