CPE performance upgrades

Well, with everyone's help it looks like we have a definitive answer on the turbo! According to the information Scott sent me, and the video otnielarencibia posted, it sounds like the turbo in the CX7 has a smaller A/R ratio. The theory behind the A/R ratio is explained in the video, but it greatly influences a turbocharger's operating range. So you guys would gain a fair amount of power if you guys got a hold of a used SPEED3/6 turbocharger. Since a lot of those folks are replacing their turbos with the ATP GT series units, you can probably pick them up cheap if you were to check out some messageboard classified ads.

I just wanted to thank all the people who sent info to me or posted up info here. Consider that without your help we would have spent days trying to figure out what the difference between the turbos is. So thanks to everyone! With this new information (new to us at least) we can make more educated decisions about which products we should pursue for you guys.


Jordan
 
www.cp-e.com said:
Well, with everyone's help it looks like we have a definitive answer on the turbo! According to the information Scott sent me, and the video otnielarencibia posted, it sounds like the turbo in the CX7 has a smaller A/R ratio. The theory behind the A/R ratio is explained in the video, but it greatly influences a turbocharger's operating range. So you guys would gain a fair amount of power if you guys got a hold of a used SPEED3/6 turbocharger. Since a lot of those folks are replacing their turbos with the ATP GT series units, you can probably pick them up cheap if you were to check out some messageboard classified ads.

I just wanted to thank all the people who sent info to me or posted up info here. Consider that without your help we would have spent days trying to figure out what the difference between the turbos is. So thanks to everyone! With this new information (new to us at least) we can make more educated decisions about which products we should pursue for you guys.


Jordan

I would still be interested in seeing what kind of improvements you can make within the existing set-up. I'm not intersted in changing the dailly driveability by going to a different turbo. I think you could still knock a 1/2 second of the 1/4 mile time by otimizing A/F, timing, boost, shifting, and shift points with the existing turbo.

Changing turbos takes things to a different level of modding. I would pick a different vehicle for that. I'm just looking to make the dailly drive a little more enjoyable.
 
Dalton said:
Still braking the engine?
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THIS
How To Break In Your Engine For
More Power & Less Wear !
(boom08)

In the Evo world, running the engine hard in the 1st 600 miles is known to lead to an oil burning motor. Mitsubishi really means it, when they say to keep revs under 5K for the 1st 600 miles. Now for a shop built race motor I'm sure the recommendations are different. But I for one would follow the factory recommendations for a stock motor.
 
Mazda3 said:
I would still be interested in seeing what kind of improvements you can make within the existing set-up. I'm not intersted in changing the dailly driveability by going to a different turbo. I think you could still knock a 1/2 second of the 1/4 mile time by otimizing A/F, timing, boost, shifting, and shift points with the existing turbo.

Changing turbos takes things to a different level of modding. I would pick a different vehicle for that. I'm just looking to make the dailly drive a little more enjoyable.
I am in the same boat as you. I would like to keep the stock turbo and just up the performance a bit and smooth out everything. I would really like to see a change in the shifts, very slow if you ask me. Gas mileage is another plus!
 
so, lemme see if i got all this info straight, the drop off in power/revs/turbo is due to the turbo unit that is in the cx-7 more or less. its not so much a problem with other systems in the car....i remember someone posting that there was a TSB out having to do with getting higher RPM out of the engine (or something related to that fact) which was a seperate issue from the hesitation TSB
 
Mazda3 said:
I would still be interested in seeing what kind of improvements you can make within the existing set-up. I'm not intersted in changing the dailly driveability by going to a different turbo. I think you could still knock a 1/2 second of the 1/4 mile time by otimizing A/F, timing, boost, shifting, and shift points with the existing turbo.

Changing turbos takes things to a different level of modding. I would pick a different vehicle for that. I'm just looking to make the dailly drive a little more enjoyable.


benben84 said:
I am in the same boat as you. I would like to keep the stock turbo and just up the performance a bit and smooth out everything. I would really like to see a change in the shifts, very slow if you ask me. Gas mileage is another plus!


Well thanks a lot for your input guys, this is exactly what I'm looking for. We need to know if you guys would consider a turbo swap, and it looks like that's a little more headache than you guys are willing to endure, which is fine. Now that we know this we can concentrate on optimizing the stock turbo setup.

We still have to dyno tune BadakVT's (Mike) car, so we still may gain a good amount of power over the stock tune. Mike said that the car feels stronger with just the boost control enabled at 16psi, but we still need to tweak the timing and air/fuel. So we're going to try to get him on a dyno soon.


Jordan
 
www.cp-e.com said:
Well thanks a lot for your input guys, this is exactly what I'm looking for. We need to know if you guys would consider a turbo swap, and it looks like that's a little more headache than you guys are willing to endure, which is fine. Now that we know this we can concentrate on optimizing the stock turbo setup.

We still have to dyno tune BadakVT's (Mike) car, so we still may gain a good amount of power over the stock tune. Mike said that the car feels stronger with just the boost control enabled at 16psi, but we still need to tweak the timing and air/fuel. So we're going to try to get him on a dyno soon.


Jordan

Don't forget the shifting and shift points!!! :D

The tranny needs to shift at a lower RPM under WOT and a little crisper wouldn't hurt either. :)
 
Mazda3 said:
Don't forget the shifting and shift points!!! :D

The tranny needs to shift at a lower RPM under WOT and a little crisper wouldn't hurt either. :)


Hmmm, we'd be happy to look into that, but the Standback unfortunately won't be able to make those changes to the transmission. Because the Standback is an interceptor type tuner, it can only adjust incoming sensor signals, like the MAF, MAP, or crankshaft position sensor, etc. So in order to change the firmness or timing of the shifts, we would probably have to look at an optimized valve body, or 'hard parts' in other words. We made a similar product for the Mazda 6S and 6i community, and if that's a product that you guys would consider then we'll definitely consider making one for the CX7. I'll let the guys know that a valve body, and possibly a torque converter may interest you guys.


Jordan
 
www.cp-e.com said:
....If you look back at these graphs, you can see that the wastegate is fully shut (250 indicates the wastegate solenoid is in the closed position) but the boost still tapers off after about 4000rpm. This tells me that the turbo doesn't have enough exhaust energy to continue spinning up, and if we could hook a turbo tach onto the shaft of the turbo, you'd probably see a drop in shaft speed despite the wastegate being totally closed. If the boost control was at fault, then you should see a corresponding increase in boost pressure when the wastegate solenoid finally does open (which would open the wastegate)....

thanks for the response and all the hard work! I am curious, the wastegate solenoid position signal you are measuring...is that basically wastegate duty cycle measured from the boost control solenoid (bcs) itself? If so, that could be an erroneous reading since that is more a function of the ECU to the bcs
signal, and again in a 2 port bleed system, even at 100% duty cycle, it usually cannot bleed enough so that the wastegate maintains shut. i do agree that they inlet (and maybe even outlet) a/r may be prohibiting the higher boost, but without inhibiting all the other restrictions (exhaust/intake/boost-wastegate control) out of the equation, it is hard to deduce how much it has effect on it. however, i am no expert on the MZR series of engines, just giving some feedback on the work i've done on Evo's. ;)

p.s. i also have access to a mustang AWD dyno here on the West Coast (San Jose) and will soon dyno (and log the boost profile) w/ some load . Might try to unbolt the exhaust temporarily as well for fun. (nailbyt)
 
Last edited:
S_T said:
thanks for the response and all the hard work! I am curious, the wastegate solenoid position signal you are measuring...is that basically wastegate duty cycle measured from the boost control solenoid (bcs) itself? If so, that could be an erroneous reading since that is more a function of the ECU to the bcssignal, and again in a 2 port bleed system, even at 100% duty cycle, it usually cannot bleed enough so that the wastegate maintains shut. i do agree that they inlet (and maybe even outlet) a/r may be prohibiting the higher boost, but without inhibiting all the other restrictions (exhaust/intake/boost-wastegate control) out of the equation, it is hard to deduce how much it has effect on it. however, i am no expert on the MZR series of engines, just giving some feedback on the work i've done on Evo's. ;)

p.s. i also have access to a mustang AWD dyno here on the West Coast (San Jose) and will soon dyno (and log the boost profile) w/ some load . Might try to unbolt the exhaust temporarily as well for fun. (nailbyt)


Actually, that's a really great question, and I'll have to look into an answer. I believe that the wastegate duty cycle is indicated by the solenoid position, but I'll have to ask the guy who designed it to be sure. Either way, you bring up a great point.

Hey, and if you do decide to dyno that AWD CX7, let us know how it goes. We had terrible luck trying to get consistent numbers from the car, and we think it was because of the traction control system. We had no problem with the SPEED6's AWD, but the CX7 did some funny things. One run the rear tires would spin, and on the subsequent they'd stay still. Weird. But let me know if you do every get around to dynoing your ride!


Jordan
 
I would be very interested in this if you were able to get a better a/f tune and more power on the stock turbo... how long do you guys figure before you might have some hard numbers on the dyno and a/f?
 
S_T said:
thanks for the response and all the hard work! I am curious, the wastegate solenoid position signal you are measuring...is that basically wastegate duty cycle measured from the boost control solenoid (bcs) itself? If so, that could be an erroneous reading since that is more a function of the ECU to the bcs
signal, and again in a 2 port bleed system, even at 100% duty cycle, it usually cannot bleed enough so that the wastegate maintains shut. i do agree that they inlet (and maybe even outlet) a/r may be prohibiting the higher boost, but without inhibiting all the other restrictions (exhaust/intake/boost-wastegate control) out of the equation, it is hard to deduce how much it has effect on it. however, i am no expert on the MZR series of engines, just giving some feedback on the work i've done on Evo's. ;)QUOTE]

A good MBC would answer this question very simply. Plus a MBC would eliminate the bleeder system OEM setup. You can keep the wastegate shut until 15 psi is actually reached rather than trying to bleed off the boost pressure that the wastegate sees from the stock BCS. And a MBC would completely eliminate the ECU portion of this equation. If boost still drops off, then we know that it is a limitation of the turbo itself rather than any ECU trickery. Although I'm still convinced that the e-throttle being pulled by the ECU is not helping matters. You can feel this effect when you floor the CX7. The engine power drops off momentarily prior to the tranny shifting. The CX7 actually runs to 60 quicker if you DON'T floor it. At like 80-90% throttle, the CX7 ECU does not seem to pull the e-throttle prior to shifting.
 
werd my next project will be installing a mbc and defi boost gauge wanna see this thing taper off in person. i wonder if porting the stock turbo is an option?
 
I think this piggyback should do the most difference out of the bunch compared to the MS3s and the MS6s; seeing as how the CX-7 has the same engine but its the most regulated out of the three. I'm pretty confident to say that with a TBE (Is there a TBE for the CX-7? lol) and a good EMS tune, this SUV can hang with stock EVOs/STis....well, some fatter tires too.
 
Karma_hunden said:
I think this piggyback should do the most difference out of the bunch compared to the MS3s and the MS6s; seeing as how the CX-7 has the same engine but its the most regulated out of the three. I'm pretty confident to say that with a TBE (Is there a TBE for the CX-7? lol) and a good EMS tune, this SUV can hang with stock EVOs/STis....well, some fatter tires too.

Corksport will be releasing a catless downpipe and an axleback muffler system (retains the stock midpipe/2nd cat combo). A 3900 lb SUV will likely never be able to run with 3200 lb Evos and STis. The MZR motor just doesn't make more power than a 4G63 or EJ25 respectively.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back