CP-E Intercooler Question... Noob needs Help Please..

B

BigBadBiz

Member
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Mazdaspeed 6
I'm looking into getting the CP-E FMIC.... Now i know that with this intercooler, heat transfer is better, cooler engine tempuratures, less friction = less boost loss, blah blah blah... my question(s): Now if there is "less pressure loss" does that mean that the turbo is doing less work to meet specified boost? If so would that prolong the turbo's life???? or does the turbo still spin at the same rpm causing more pressure??? Im not sure how boost control works... is it gauged, or is it mechanically controlled on the turbo itself????.... i feel like i should know this, but it's my first turbo car so bare with me... I know with an intercooler upgrade it is common practice to increase boost from stock (im assuming its 12psi).... what is a safe psi with our stock block set up? maybe 15psi??? last question... I'm going to buy cp-e's FMIC, CAI, Dual exhaust all at once... what should i change once i install these parts?.. i know the BOV would be that one thing, but what if I don't want to up boost, do i need the change the BOV???? Damn, i just made turtle soup on this thread, but i really need some advice.... This is my Daily Driver, and i want to release a few more horses... atleast 300 from stock 270... help please...

thanks
 
your gonna need an HKS SSQV id get the limited edition black one they have over at protegegarage.com becasue last i knew CP-E still was only making the FMIC kit with one flange and its the HKS flange.
 
CP-e will, down the road, move to using an OEM flange for their intercoolers. we were literally just informed of that.

keep in mind, bigbadbiz, that 270hp is horsepower at the crank, not at the wheels. what your car actually puts out at the tires is lower than what is advertised in the brochure. but if you are looking for 30 extra hp, the route you are going will suffice.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
CP-e will, down the road, move to using an OEM flange for their intercoolers. we were literally just informed of that.

keep in mind, bigbadbiz, that 270hp is horsepower at the crank, not at the wheels. what your car actually puts out at the tires is lower than what is advertised in the brochure. but if you are looking for 30 extra hp, the route you are going will suffice.
Click to expand...

yes i know that the 270 isnt to the wheels... but yeah, 30 more hp would suffice for me. Im the other guy with a red ms6 in port chester, ny... i believe you did work for this guy that lives in my town (chris)... he's the guy that was trying to build that beast and failed...

anyway, i'm not trying to build a beast but i am trying to open up her legs a little bit without actually breaking her stock engine... i want to get her competitive against other all wheel drive a-holes around here with riced out sti's and evo's who leave their engines stock

but i'd hate to break her.... and if i do i hear your the guy to go to... but trust me, i'd rather remain your forum friend than a customer... a 5 grand customer for that matter
 
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you can be a friend and a customer if you like ;)

the guy with the first 'build a beast' thread, i genuinely feel bad for that guy. his shop and tuner really hosed him on so many aspects of that job. i really feel that they just wanted to keep taking his money and nothing more. so many things were not done right by him that no small amount of parts, money and labor was going to fix it.

there are ways to open the car up without blowing it up. you just have to know when enough is enough and when to say "hey, i'm happy with the car where it is now". its tough once you get the modding bug to do that, once you go fast you want to be faster still. i would say get a downpipe, the front mount intercooler, a bypass or blow off valve and an intake and you'll be perfectly happy with the car after those parts.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
you can be a friend and a customer if you like ;)

the guy with the first 'build a beast' thread, i genuinely feel bad for that guy. his shop and tuner really hosed him on so many aspects of that job. i really feel that they just wanted to keep taking his money and nothing more. so many things were not done right by him that no small amount of parts, money and labor was going to fix it.

there are ways to open the car up without blowing it up. you just have to know when enough is enough and when to say "hey, i'm happy with the car where it is now". its tough once you get the modding bug to do that, once you go fast you want to be faster still. i would say get a downpipe, the front mount intercooler, a bypass or blow off valve and an intake and you'll be perfectly happy with the car after those parts.
Click to expand...



why a down pipe and not a full exhaust??? back pressure??
 
BigBadBiz said:
... i want to get her competitive against other all wheel drive a-holes around here with riced out sti's and evo's who leave their engines stock....
Click to expand...

You're gonna need all the bolt-ons (TBE, CAI, & IC) to keep up with the stock STI & EVO. You can do it on your stock turbo though. Add in the XEDE with a little extra boost and you're off and running with those guys playing catchup...
 
FORZDA 1 said:
You're gonna need all the bolt-ons (TBE, CAI, & IC) to keep up with the stock STI & EVO. You can do it on your stock turbo though. Add in the XEDE with a little extra boost and you're off and running with those guys playing catchup...
Click to expand...

They play catch up now with me...TBE, SRI, and boost set at a rock steady 16psi.
 
FORZDA 1 said:
You're gonna need all the bolt-ons (TBE, CAI, & IC) to keep up with the stock STI & EVO. You can do it on your stock turbo though. Add in the XEDE with a little extra boost and you're off and running with those guys playing catchup...
Click to expand...


and 18psi is ok on the stock block???..... dude I'm ready to buy all the bolt-ons and then some... i just don't want to break the oem block... and i also don't want to buy things i don't need. See I read somewhere that to justify buying a cp-e fmic, i'd have to run atleast 20 psi.. I don't want to run that much though...i know she'll break at that boost... I figure if stock psi is around 14, then ill run 16.. But does 16 justify an fmic?? i'd rather spend that grand on new rims, snow tires, etc if i don't need it...


I'm actually going to get her Dyno'd next week to see what stock pulls i get... then, the bolt ons, then ill go for another run...
 
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we've run 22psi daily on the stock block. with proper tuning, its easily doable. any intercooler upgrade is justifiable at stock boost when you look at heat soak, core efficiency, air flow comparing stock to just about anything else on the market. you will see a gain, and a good one, by upgrading the intercooler regardless of the one chosen.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
we've run 22psi daily on the stock block. with proper tuning, its easily doable. any intercooler upgrade is justifiable at stock boost when you look at heat soak, core efficiency, air flow comparing stock to just about anything else on the market. you will see a gain, and a good one, by upgrading the intercooler regardless of the one chosen.
Click to expand...

+1 on any intercooler. The OEM TMIC is a pressure drop hog. Even my ETS TMIC netted 3psi more boost into the manifold running on the OEM turbo/wastegate with no increase in BAT. Nothing but good. Go with your preference. I like the TMICs for OEM look and no tangle of "pipes".
 
Nice.... alright first thing's first... I going to buy a cai with an exhaust... I was looking into getting the CP-E Dual Exhaust... i'd get a tbe, but it looks really stupid on the car... and it's really loud... there goes $1400......


Im almost inclined into making my car the "24/7 forum" car.....

You guys tell me what to buy.. ill buy it, install it, take pics...

i've got a 7g budget....

spent so far....

$250 30% tints
$130 Ipod Link
 
i hate world of warcraft..good luck with ur modding.. ur budget of 7 grand can get u more then most.
 
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