Cost on a bottom end?

[edaddeemsp]

By far MAM is the best that I have seen, but another option would be to check with Wagner. IMO, mam is offering way more out of their shortblock, but if you are limiting yourself to a certain horsepower, and/or limited on funds, wagner's block is by far still stronger than the factory. Good luck though.

 

[2K3 MSP]

Do you happen to know what Wagner sells with his? I don't remember seeing anything about him selling kits before.

 

[goku4658]

or price from wagner

 

[edaddeemsp]

I called and spoke with someone from wagner b4, but I can't remeber exactly what wagners shortblock comes with. The pricing is around $2200.00 for wagner w/$500 core charge, and $2995.00 for mam w/$600 core charge. I'll recheck my email to see if wagner emailed me back yet about the contents and procedures that's with his s/b.

 

[goku4658]

sorry for the noob question, but whats a core charge? is that in addition to the $2995 cost from mam or is that included?

 

[edaddeemsp]

The core charge on the s/b is just like a core charge from say autozone. They make you pay out a certain amount over the initial cost to cover the cost, if you dont, or dont want to return your core. The $2995 does not include the core charge. So if you purchased the s/b from mam, unless you sent them your block, when you sent the cash, you'd have to give up $3595.00, but once you sent back your block(after inspection to make sure your block is still good), the $600 core would be sent back to you.

 

[2K3 MSP]

Basically, like a deposit fee. You add $600 to the price of the MAM kit(so $3595 up front), and then when you uninstall your stock block, you send it to him. He'll refund you that $600 core charge, leaving you with a total price of $2995. If you don't want to send him your block, you don't have to, but you get hit with that extra fee. That's probably why Pdh said he shipped him a block on his own.

 

[2K3 MSP]

I guess I type slow

 

[edaddeemsp]

I guess I type slow

You might type a little slower, but after reading your mods, your car should be faster.

 

[2K3 MSP]

You might type a little slower, but after reading your mods, your car should be faster.

It's only fast if its on the road. Hopefully it stays in one peice long enough to get the internals it needs to keep going strong. Otherwise, I'll have me a nice trailer queen

 

[goku4658]

thanks for the informative reply guys!

i'm just trying to figure out what I need for 220-230whp safely and reliably. I'm not looking for a drag monster.

 

[edaddeemsp]

If you go down on the whp wanted, from what I've been paying attention to on this forum, with correct em, a fmic or for your wanted h.p., smic, freeflowing exhaust, and a little up in boost, your whp may be accomplished w/o doing the internals. Keep in mind though that some msp's have freak blocks that can handle more than others, so you might need to keep the s/b in mind.

 

[goku4658]

well i already have the wagner fmic, sri, and ghl 3"turboback exhaust

 

[blynzoo]

Well, we have a FANTASTIC stock crank in this motor...I dont see the need to upgrade that for even above-normal boosting. Rods and pistons are the only other part of the bottom end I think you'd need! Unless you sheathed your piston chambers....

 

[goku4658]

Well, we have a FANTASTIC stock crank in this motor...I dont see the need to upgrade that for even above-normal boosting. Rods and pistons are the only other part of the bottom end I think you'd need! Unless you sheathed your piston chambers....

So what you're saying is, if someone only wanted around 230 whp. They would be better off just buying forged rods and pistons, then a built s/b?

 

[flat_black]

It's all a matter of time and needs, really. With a shortblock, you'll minimize downtime by just taking the old one out and putting the new one in. With yours, you'll end up having ot measure, and measure, and measure, to check clearance from piston to wall, ot get the same effect that Juan gets, as he measures for the piston rings. Little things like that, and lots of them, take a LOT of time, and accordingly, if you don't have much time, a short block is a great option. =)

This is my oppinion, though, so don't take it as gospel. =)

 

[goku4658]

the word according to flat_black...

 

[jrodhotrod]

Alex,

I am going to agree with all the others here. If you want to minimize downtime and you don't have someone experienced in building these cars locally, I would go with the shortblock. Otherwise, buy all the parts from Beau at Mental Addiction. He can get you everything you need to just do everything in your block. Rods/Pistons, Head Studs, Main Studs, bearings, gaskets, rings, and so on and so forth.

But most important, don't rush things. Make sure it's done right so you don't have problems down the road.

And for Compression Ratio, I would go 8.5:1, Gives a little bit of a safety margin with the 91 octane we get out here in cali without a great sacrifice to off-boost driving.

 

[2K3 MSP]

Thanks Jared...As money starts coming in(if it does), I'll get a better idea of what I can do, and what I want from this car in the long run. My tax return will be the first hint of how long this will take, so hopefully I get a nice chunk to help me on my way.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Why does everybody like going with head studs?