Corksport SRI and check engine light

[Shawner]

Hey,

So I put on the SRI about 2 months ago, about 2 days ago the check engine light came on. I brought the car into the dealership and they're saying it's the SRI. I'm a bit skeptical that this would be the issue.

I also have the Corksport pully install and it's making a rattling noise. They checked it at the dealership and it seems to be secure.

Anyone had any similar experiences, or any idea what my next step should be?

Cheers,
Shawn

 

[Racebrewer]

Hi Shawn,

Easy for them to point at stuff that wasn't OEM.

What was the code it tossed? If they didn't tell you and it comes back, go to one of the parts stores that read codes for free and find out what it is. Let us know.

One of the reasons that an SRI might cause a code to be tossed is a mis-match between what the ECU expects to see from the MAF and the MAP. Not a big deal if it happens every few months. Just reset and live on.

The pulley shouldn't rattle if it was properly tightened. It should be either on or really, really loose. Have you tried re-tightening the bolt?

Keep us posted.

John

 

[Shawner]

Hey John,

Thanks for the post. The pulley is on very tight, but there is noise in that area for sure. No, they didn't tell me the error. I haven't picked the car up yet though. About a week ago the check airbag light came on. So I parked for the day, went to work. When I started up the car, the light was off. On the ride home, the check engine light then came on. At that time the check airbag light stayed off. Now the dealership is telling me both lights are on and I have to bring the car back in.

How does one go about resetting the MAF and MAP, disconnect the battery?

Cheers,
Shawn

 

[Racebrewer]

Usually, disconnecting the battery or pulling the right fuse resets the ECU. A code scanner will also have a re-set function. Code scanners have gotten down to about $50 on sale and usually pay for themselves. Most cars require that you start the car and let it idle for a while after a re-set, so the car can adjust to the weather, etc.

Upon occasion a rapid extreme weather change can also trip a CEL. Temperature and barometric changes can throw an ECU off. I can imagine that an SRI could add to that without really doing anything negative to the motor. My Integra Type R has a combo SRI/CAI, Jun II intake cam, tightened valve lash, etc, etc, and weather changes drive the ECU nuts. Valve lash by itself touches it off. I set it on the tight end of the specs and it wouldn't idle smoothly.

John

 

[Shawner]

http://www.obdreaders.com/Mazda/2/OBD+Readers/ is this the kind of scanner you're talking about? I don't mind the errors, kind of, I just want to make sure that there is nothing wrong with the engine.

 

[XCLR8TN]

You guys getting the CELs and rattling noises are making me extremely hesistant to buy the SRI and pulley.

This guy has the same problems:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123799362-Crap!

Has anyone called corksport and discussed it with them??

 

[cclngthr]

With modern CAN controlled cars built after 2007, the emission control system is mapped tighter than older cars and with an aftermarket intake filter system, there is more air being drawn into the engine. Under the older mapping on pre 2007 cars, the ECU will adapt to the increased airflow. Now, with cars built after 2007, the mapping does not adapt as far, and when people put the aftermarket intakes on, the ECU sees the increased airflow through the MAF sensor, but the computer no longer adjusts the fuel to compensate for the increased airflow.

On live data readings on the MAF sensor, the ECU is looking for readings at 180-200 degrees ECT, and idle speed around 750, the MAF reading needs to be between .3650 and .4789. Anything beyond that will set a P0101 or other MAF code.

 

[elfhearse]

I've had my Corksport SRI installed for about 8,000 miles and have not had any CEL's (now I've jinxed myself) I did notice the MAF sensor wire was pretty dirty/oily when I checked it a few months after installing the SRI. Just thinking, but a nice new OILY K&N filter could foul up the MAF sensor wire, not sure it that would trigger a CEL......

 

[cclngthr]

Oily filters (will damage sensors) can be prevented by using pantyhose between the sensor and filter.

Whoever oiled the filter put too much oil on it. You only need a few drops of oil.

 

[Racebrewer]

Thanks cclngthr,

Great info. What does "On live data readings on the MAF sensor, the ECU is looking for readings at 180-200 degrees ECT" mean? The "ECT" lost me, but then again, I'm easily lost.

The K&N can be easily over-oiled. After I oil mine (on previous non-MAF cars) I always wadded some paper towels inside and outside and let it sit for a while to soak up excess oil before installing. Always remember to remove the paper towels<LOL>

Elfhearse and Shawner, the MAF is easily cleanable and proably should be done every once in a while. There are cleaner sprays available and instructions on the Internetz. Just do a "How to clean MAF" in Google.

John

 

[cclngthr]

Thanks cclngthr,

Great info. What does "On live data readings on the MAF sensor, the ECU is looking for readings at 180-200 degrees ECT" mean? The "ECT" lost me, but then again, I'm easily lost.

The K&N can be easily over-oiled. After I oil mine (on previous non-MAF cars) I always wadded some paper towels inside and outside and let it sit for a while to soak up excess oil before installing. Always remember to remove the paper towels<LOL>

Elfhearse and Shawner, the MAF is easily cleanable and proably should be done every once in a while. There are cleaner sprays available and instructions on the Internetz. Just do a "How to clean MAF" in Google.

John

ECT= Engine Coolant Temperature. The MAF readings when the engine is at normal operating temperature has to be between those readings I mentioned at idle with the TPS readings at <10. Anything above or below consistantly will set a DTC. The ECU uses the TPS, RPM, and ECT to gauge where the correct MAF readings should be. Once that is determined, it adds the MAF reading to determine the duty cycle of the injectors. After it determines that, it uses the primary o2 sensor (the first one) to final adjustments of the injector duty cycle to make a clean burn.

Brake clean can be used to clean the MAF. It leaves no residue and cleans off oil very well.

 

[Shawner]

Thanks for all the great info. I just got back from the dealer and this is what I have on their diagnostic sheet:
CHECKED FOR CODES P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE DETECTED/POSSIBLE FROM AFTERMARKET COLD AIR INTAKE OR AFTERMARKET CRANKSHAFT CRANK PULLY RECOMMEND REMOVAL AND RE-CHECK.
I did disconnect that battery and reconnect, engine light is still on. I'll try cleaning the MAF.

Thanks again for all the great info.
Cheers
Shawn

 

[cclngthr]

Thanks for all the great info. I just got back from the dealer and this is what I have on their diagnostic sheet:
CHECKED FOR CODES P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE DETECTED/POSSIBLE FROM AFTERMARKET COLD AIR INTAKE OR AFTERMARKET CRANKSHAFT CRANK PULLY RECOMMEND REMOVAL AND RE-CHECK.
I did disconnect that battery and reconnect, engine light is still on. I'll try cleaning the MAF.

Thanks again for all the great info.
Cheers
Shawn

Any misfire is NOT from the intake or crank pulley. The only way it would misfire is from a plug, coil or coil boot. What you need to do to prevent misfires is check the factory plug gap spec and use that information to gauge what you should do next. With increased airflow, a stock plug gap can create misfires, particularly if it is over .047 because random misfires are caused by increased airflow will occasionally blow out the spark creating a misfire. To solve the problem, close the plug gap a couple thousandths and problem solved. If the spec calls for a .051 plug gap, close it to .047-.048.

To reset the ECU, on these newer cars, you need to reset it with a scan tool. Unhooking the battery does not always work.

 

[Shawner]

Thanks cclngthr,

Is the misfire causing any internal damage if I don't have the sparkplugs looked at right away?

Cheers,
Shawn

 

[Shawner]

Well the light has gone out, all is now good in the world. Guess the battery reset it? I'll necro this thread if it happens again in the future.

 

[cclngthr]

Thanks cclngthr,

Is the misfire causing any internal damage if I don't have the sparkplugs looked at right away?

Cheers,
Shawn

No, but you should do it as soon as you can to avoid potential detonation issues caused by the misfire.

What I would do is go to Autozone, or parts store (see you are north of me) to see if they have a scan tool to reset the ECU. The code still is in the computer stored and will need to be erased by the tool to get rid of it. I also would get new plugs (rather than reusing the old, and if you can, get the NGK laser iridium plugs, regap them and install those.

EDIT:
What I show is the gap on 1 plug brand is .044, and the other is .052. I don't show a NGK laser iridium in my supplier, nor does NGK offer a part number for the 2011 model year. Champion has a iridium plug available , but it is gapped at .052. I would use a .047 gap on your car to avoid misfires.

 

[Shawner]

So looking at grabbing some spark plugs online the manual says:
Spark Plug number: ZJ46 18 110*1, ZJY6 18 110

When I go to a site like JEGS I get a massive list of Sparkplugs, I can't find the ones with the correct Spark Plug number. Any suggestions?

 

[Racebrewer]

Canadian Tire?

I'll pull my US manual out tomorrow and see what it lists. Hey, you can get plugs through Amazon.com! Shouldn't be an issue.

"NGK laser iridium plugs, regap them and install those." Also a great suggestion. Can't beat NGK or Nippondenso for good plugs.

For now, you might consider sticking with new stock plugs so your dealer doesn't blame a different plug for a problem.

"POSSIBLE FROM AFTERMARKET COLD AIR INTAKE OR AFTERMARKET CRANKSHAFT CRANK PULLY RECOMMEND REMOVAL AND RE-CHECK." is a way of saying that they don't have a clue as to what is going on, or what they are doing. I can't see how a pulley can cause a mis-fire.

Random misfire, to me, means that there is no specific issue like a single bad plug or a bad coil. Its an overall malaise.

By any chance has there been extreme weather changes such as temperature or air pressure change which may have caught the ECU off guard? If so, the car may have run too rich or lean causing a random misfire.

If you've had a lot of rain, it may have soaked the top of the motor (coil packs, wires, etc) causing a random misfire.

As to the code readers, there were a couple plastic box with a screen types for about $50 that would work just fine. See also any auto parts store, Canadian Tire or Sears. There is another type that incorporates a laptop but maybe more than you need. There is also a third type that also functions as a gauge cluster that you can leave in car. Scanguage or Ultragauge.

Reads codes and resets are the important things.

John

 

[Shawner]

Well I live in Vancouver, so it's rather humid. This all also started to happen after a filled up, so I'm also wondering if I got a fuel below or above grade. Pretty sure it was regular. I'm going to hit Canadian Tire tomorrow they have this on sale:
OBDII Code READER Think I'll just reset the error code, and gap the plugs to .047 as suggested.
Is the Mazda II OBDII compliant? Going to assume it is.

Thanks for all the info, this has been an excellent resource!
Cheers,
Shawn

 

[cclngthr]

Canadian Tire?

I'll pull my US manual out tomorrow and see what it lists. Hey, you can get plugs through Amazon.com! Shouldn't be an issue.

"NGK laser iridium plugs, regap them and install those." Also a great suggestion. Can't beat NGK or Nippondenso for good plugs.

For now, you might consider sticking with new stock plugs so your dealer doesn't blame a different plug for a problem.

"POSSIBLE FROM AFTERMARKET COLD AIR INTAKE OR AFTERMARKET CRANKSHAFT CRANK PULLY RECOMMEND REMOVAL AND RE-CHECK." is a way of saying that they don't have a clue as to what is going on, or what they are doing. I can't see how a pulley can cause a mis-fire.

Random misfire, to me, means that there is no specific issue like a single bad plug or a bad coil. Its an overall malaise.

By any chance has there been extreme weather changes such as temperature or air pressure change which may have caught the ECU off guard? If so, the car may have run too rich or lean causing a random misfire.

If you've had a lot of rain, it may have soaked the top of the motor (coil packs, wires, etc) causing a random misfire.

As to the code readers, there were a couple plastic box with a screen types for about $50 that would work just fine. See also any auto parts store, Canadian Tire or Sears. There is another type that incorporates a laptop but maybe more than you need. There is also a third type that also functions as a gauge cluster that you can leave in car. Scanguage or Ultragauge.

Reads codes and resets are the important things.

John

I run into this quite often at my shop, with random misfires. Also got several 100K pieces of equipment, which includes a dyno and OEM scan tools to test these things. A random misfire, particularly with Mazdas and Fords are common. The reason is the wide gap is large enough that under some conditions the spark can be blown out, which causes the misfire. I have been able to duplicate that at the shop with my customers cars on the dyno, and we can see it on the scope we use to test ignition systems. Closing the gap a little works, by creating a slightly hotter spark. My shop specializes in ignition and emission work.

Shawn lives about 130 miles north of me and we get similar weather. What I get is not caused by wet conditions, the splash shields on the car protect the engine from wet conditions, but from the spark being blown out.

I checked with my supplier and NGK, and NGK does not have a plug for the car. Champion does (autolight also has one), which would be my next choice. Autolight I would stay away from. Oreilly's has Champion plugs for the car. Part number 9201 Line CHP
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_03435_1446550_2764&pt=03435&ppt=C0334