Corksport Front Tower Strut Bar Review!

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Mazdaspeed3, Mazda2 Yozora Ed., RX-8 R3
So, it's been about 4 days with the bar installed and this somewhat short review is based on these first impressions.

I'm going to break this into two parts, install and performance...

Install fit and finish:

So this is my third CorkSport part, and I say with some regret that it's the first one I have had issue with the fit and finish.

The bar itself looks great, nice flat black with the corksport logo on the drivers side. Nice and subtle design, which I like. It looks like a part of the engine bay. Once I started the install I ran into a few issues however.

While they don't make an effort to point it out, it is VERY difficult to get to two of the bolts on the strut tower with a standard ratchet or torque wrench, without removing a bunch of the plastic trim, and even then it's difficult to get to the rearmost bolt that's under the frame of the car. I can't really fault CorkSport for that as they didn't design the car, and they do point out that a service manual is a required bit of equipment for the install. Still somewhat aggravating. I had to use a box wrench and guess at the torque for the rearmost bolts.

Once the bolts were off, trying to get the bar in was a bit of a task. You have to position the bar over one side first, then basically bend it across the top of the firewall to get it over the bolts on the other side. Doing this more often than not ended up popping off the other side, and it had to be repositioned and held on. It also required a considerable amount of force to get it to bend around and mount on the post on the opposite side, and it is still exerting quite a bit of pressure on the felt padding over the firewall.

Once i got it mounted and proceeded to put the buts back on, I realized that the way the bar was positioned mounted in place, you can't get a socket around at least one of the bolts on the passenger side, because it's too close to the bracket. So i had to remove the bar from one side, put the socket on, push the other side back on and then torque it down. The mounting brackets also don't sit flat on the strut tower, though they do say it will bolt down properly, it doesn't feel like tight design to me.

I should point out that in the process of putting the bar on the bolts, and trying to move around the engine compartment that the powder coating scraped off VERY easily. Even just an errant brush on the metal chassis would take off the coating. It came off far to easily for my liking. To be honest, the paint seemed more like a spray on tremclad than a real powder coat.

So, once the bar was on, it was time to remount the AC hose clamp and the brake reservoir. My unit didn't come with the 'included' bolt to remount the AC clamp, but I had a couple M6's lying around so i wasn't concerned. It does NOT go gracefully into the new mounting position however. The pipe and hose have to be bent at a strange angle to get the clamp to remount, and the pipe is very close to the chassis in the new position, such that I am concerned about rubbing damaging the AC pipe.

The brake reservoir is suppose to go back down once you use a dremmel tool to file down one edge of the mounting bracket on the reservoir itself, but once again the strut bar's bracket is WAY to close to the mounting bolt to even get a nut over, let alone slip a comparatively bulky bit of plastic over. I ended up having to just cut that whole leg off the brake reservoir to get it to fit.

All in all i was VERY disappointed with the fit and finish. The unit does not feel at all like precision design, and the tolerances are beyond what i would consider 'tight'. The thing barely fits, and has to be basically beaten into place. Once its properly in place, you can't actually bolt it down, so you have to remove it and fudge around till it's all bolted tight. The powder coat is not very durable, and I could see 'runs' in the finish. Given how precise and beautiful the Intake and the crankshaft pulley are, I was really expecting better.


Performance:
Ok, so given how much effort the install was, I was hoping it would all be worth it.

And so far it seems it has been.

Cornering at speed feels tighter and more precise. There is less understeer and the steering rate is noticeably more 'progressive' as the wheel goes over further. Body roll is reduced (though I think I'd need coilovers in combo with my H&R springs to really tighten things up) and corners feel 'sharper'.

Once installed the bar does sit so far back in the engine bay that it's hard to see it's there. and it's out of the way of access to the battery (which is important for me as my audio system often requires work to access my battery!) and other major engine components.


Conclusion:

The fit and finish are really not up to what I've come to expect from corksport. The paint sucks and the whole thing just doesn't feel like a precision engineered part. You have to do to much 'fiddling' to get it to fit properly, and you'd pretty much have to work magic to get it installed the way the instructions describe.

All that said, the results are exactly what they should be. The front end is tighter and cornering is more 'fun'. The car is starting to feel more refined and tighter, but still fun and that just on the edge of out of control feeling.

So while the install was a pain in the arse, and the fit an finish aren't wonderful, the performance is exactly as advertised, and I'd still recommend this product to anyone with an M2. The price is certainly right, and from a performance point of view, this represents really good value! Also, the idea of supporting a Mazda developer as passionate as Corksport is icing on the cake!
 
Cheers. The more I'm driving on roads i know the more I can feel the difference the bar is making. It's both 'subtle' and quite noticeable if that makes sense. Definitely worth the price of admission.

Very nice review...maybe it will push for a bit of a redesign for better fitment.
 
Wouldn't the front strut bar create *more* understeer, as it's adding rigidity to the front suspension geometry?
 
i just ordered one llol

did they change it yet? i dont mind fighting to get it in if its worth it. luckily its on 100 bux (compared to other prices/things)
 
sso i just installed mine and i actually had no problems. i cut what had to be cut and i moved what had to be moved. the engine cover does rattle against the bar if i hit a bigg bump/sit on a hill going down/when the gear changes hard?

it does make the cornering better ill tell u that. =]

another great porduct from CS!
 
It adds rigidity to the chassis not the actual suspension.

Does it? It's my understanding that a Strut Bar ties the tops of the struts together, ensuring that there isn't flex at the top of the struts in cornering that would result in tire movement. I think of a chassis change as something that stiffens the frame of the car and limits torsion between the front and rear for the most part. I'm honestly not being contrary, i'm just hoping to learn. if there's a reference you can point me to that'd explain it all to me, that'd save everyone time. :)

@mazdamatic: do you have any other suspension mods? can you give a little more description on how you tested it and what the results were?
 
Does it? It's my understanding that a Strut Bar ties the tops of the struts together, ensuring that there isn't flex at the top of the struts in cornering that would result in tire movement. I think of a chassis change as something that stiffens the frame of the car and limits torsion between the front and rear for the most part. I'm honestly not being contrary, i'm just hoping to learn. if there's a reference you can point me to that'd explain it all to me, that'd save everyone time. :)

@mazdamatic: do you have any other suspension mods? can you give a little more description on how you tested it and what the results were?

right now only the bar.
well i have alooottt of curves in my area since my neighborhood is still being made. so i took the car with my friend b4 the install and we went hard on the corners. the 2 dominates corners but still noticed little rolls and sliding. then i installed it and did the same thing. but by myself he had to leave. and i noticed less flex and stiffer response. but its really only noticable (to me at least) on tight corners (which are the most fun)
 
It does tie the tops of the struts together, but when you look at how the struts will flex under cornering, the flex actually helps you with camber gain. So unless you have a stiff suspension and can adjust the camber to where you want/need it to me the strut bad is mainly just weight.

When you look at the comparison between the stiffness of the suspension compared to how stiff the strut towers are it is pretty small, so it isn't going to be anything huge if you do stiffen it. Plus on the 2 the top hats are co close to the firewall that helps with strength. Older cars have struts pretty far away from the firewall so they flex easier.

One last thing, with a strut bar, under cornering one wheel gats loaded and the other gets unloaded, so both top hats move in the same direction. Unless the strut bar goes into the firewall or some other chassis mounting point it isn't as effective as it could be.

Does it? It's my understanding that a Strut Bar ties the tops of the struts together, ensuring that there isn't flex at the top of the struts in cornering that would result in tire movement. I think of a chassis change as something that stiffens the frame of the car and limits torsion between the front and rear for the most part. I'm honestly not being contrary, i'm just hoping to learn. if there's a reference you can point me to that'd explain it all to me, that'd save everyone time. :)

@mazdamatic: do you have any other suspension mods? can you give a little more description on how you tested it and what the results were?
 
Finally found time this weekend to install my STB...I was really hoping to start a new thread "+1 on great STB!!!" but unfortunately my sentiments are the same as Gravity here :(

Pretty much everything he says there is spot on...

--2 bolts (one on each tower) are buried in the back and very hard to get to...
--Really would almost be worth it to wrap it in syran wrap as it scratches oh so very easily.
--In the instructions, they do say to dremel down part of the reservoir mounting bracket, but this really isn't even close to feeling like it was thought out all the way through. The weld on the STB HAS to be done differently to even get a bolt on there.
--Flipping the AC clamp upside down to mount feels very unpolished and even doing so, the AC compressor line is tight against the sheet metal of the wheel well, doubts about how good that can be in the long run.
--The engine actually knocks the bar a little bit on start up. It's just the plastic top on the engine, but come on.....don't think a KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK when starting up is necessary.

Haven't had a chance yet to go on a long drive since the installation. If I hear knocking while driving, this thing is coming off immediately.

All in all, would not recommend :(
 
Any updates on experiences with the bar? I was thinking of getting it next, but now I might not...
 
Cs gas redesigned the bar so it now does not require any cutting or moving of pieces. It will not rub on anything and the engine cover does not hit it. It is powder coated so it does not scratch easily at all. You will love it, for the price it adds a bit to the engine bay and a big of rigidity to the chassis
 
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