Getting ready to put in my Cobb stg 2 suspension kit and was wondering what some tips/advice for installation you all might have for me. I keep reading that this front swaybar is going to be a PITA. I will probably install the springs one night, then do the sways the next night. Luckily, I have anytime access to both a 4 post alignment rack (so I can keep the wheels on the "ground" for the sway installs) and a lift (springs). Any and all tips (especially for this dreaded front swaybar) are more than welcome, and will be GREATLY appreciated. I can get the tool list for the spring install from the "how-to" Cobb springs thread I think. Mainly the front sway is what worries me.
Cobb Stg 2 tips and tricks......
- Thread starter winniep
- Start date
Sacrilicious
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- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
sorry, my front sway bar is still sitting in my bedroom right now, but i can tell you that you're going to want a set of ramps for doing the rear sway bar install...=d do yourself a favor and do NOT attempt the install without ramps, because it can be very annoying to get things the right height! =/ make sure your bushings are well greased and be absolutely sure that your end links are properly tightened!
Yea, you have to drop it to get the swaybar out in the front. I dont think he was aware you had access to a lift bro, so dont worry about it.
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
the car needs to be at ride height or pressure is put on the link bolt from the control arm being bent that makes it impossible to remove the links. at ride height, there's not pressure pulling on the link bolts, so that when you undo the nut, it will actually be possible to remove the link bolt from the sway bar. i know that probably sounded unclear, but it's hard to explain...(bang)
...and yes, the subframe needs to come off in order to install the front sway bar. it's really lame and the main reason i'm waiting until the weather gets warmer to put my front sway bar in...=/
...and yes, the subframe needs to come off in order to install the front sway bar. it's really lame and the main reason i'm waiting until the weather gets warmer to put my front sway bar in...=/
I know exactly what you're talking about. when I was under my car last weekend I was looking at the rear sway bar, and when the wheels all the way down (ie the car on a lift) the connecting bolts looked like they had almost enough pressure on them to snap. good call on the alignment rack thing. also, It'll be a good idea to check the geometry of the wheels after you're done. changing parts sometimes changes the alignment in weird ways.
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
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- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
ya, you should definitely consider getting a front and rear alignment when the springs are done settling. make sure to wait a few weeks, though, cause if you align your wheels before they settle, they will likely go outta alignment when they do! (eek2)
not much probably though, and just camber, which isn't a huge deal.
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
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- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
from what i have read, if your springs don't settle exactly evenly, then your car can start drifting because of it. it seems to make sense to me, since it's SORTA like having a slightly flat tire...=d
oh good point. I didn't think about the springs settling unevenly, but that would be a problem. I'd align my car after the install and then check it in a couple of weeks just to make sure it was still in spec. but I guess that's just a benefit of being able to do it myself. it wouldn't cost me anything.
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
ooo...what do you need to do an alignment, btw? i always figured that i didn't have the tools for it, so i've never considered being able to do it by myself...
well the most expensive tool you need is an alignment rack... although you can get it close with a string and a level. when I put new suspension on my civic back in the day, I went to get it aligned afterwards and they asked me why I was in there. it was nearly perfect. it's a pain if you don't have a lift though because you have to keep jacking it up and down. up to adjust, and down to check the alignment... very tiresome, but doable. if you don't know exactly what you're doing though, better just to take it in. I haven't done an alignment on a 3 yet so I'm not even sure what is adjustable and what isn't.
I had my buddy come to the shop yesterday after installing his H&R's on his speed6 and only had to adjust the rear camber. Any 4 wheel alignment shop will do and its DEF. worth the 60$or so bucks, some places might give you a hard time about it being lowered but don;t listen.
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
ahhh...ya, i'm definitely taking it in then. no need to spend another day trying to figure out wtf is up!
