COBB AP Questions

there is alot to it. it rewrites code on the computer so that it is, in essence, a more aggressive map for the mods you have on the car. stock computers are tuned conservatively for the stock parts. bolting on parts makes a power difference however the real gains are made when you can tune the car to take better advantage of them. in generic terms, yes, leaning out the car as needed, running more timing, peaking more boost, shifting the power band, etc.
 
So no need for a boost controller if I buy the COBB AP? What's the boost get pushed up to?
 
So I just forget about the boost controller and go for the AP, got it. Any idea what the AP can boost it up to with one of their preloaded maps?
 
upping the boost should not be your primary concern here. there are other ways of making power, safer, than simply upping the boost.
 
theyres a lot more to making power than upping boost. read the map notes on the links i gave you. they give the new boost targets.

and boost targets are dependent on what mods you have on the car. I recommend not getting the ap until you fully understand the inner workings of the car since you can quite easily join the blown engine club if you dont know what to watch out for
 
I have SRI and catless TBE with the stock TMIC. Do I just follow the map COBB provides on their website even though they say TBE w/ cat?
 
no you will need a custom map. 2 ways to do that:

1. Find someone local that knows ATR and he can tune you (free, but risky)

2. Fork over ~500 bucks and get a protune.

with the mods you have im suprised you havent had issues. your driving around with a CEL im sure and probably more than one.

you need to do some reading before tuning at all. otherwise your gonna be starting threads in the troubleshooting section every day and eventually "my engine blew today"
 
How are you running 24 lbs?

And as for the CELs, I only have one: "Lean at idle bank 1."
It comes and goes so I think it's not really anything to worry about, especially since it's just at idle. I modified my wideband O2 sensor so I don't have a CEL for that. Not really sure what other problems I may have with CELs.
 
How are you running 24 lbs?

And as for the CELs, I only have one: "Lean at idle bank 1."
It comes and goes so I think it's not really anything to worry about, especially since it's just at idle. I modified my wideband O2 sensor so I don't have a CEL for that. Not really sure what other problems I may have with CELs.

he has a custom tune from the same shop I do.

you should have a cat inefficiency code as well. i wouldnt go around trying to trick the ecu with the O2 sensors since thats just begging for trouble.

a lean condition code means exactly that. you are running lean. which means you have a leak in the intake system and the car isnt getting accurate air readings. running lean = boom. just because it is throwing codes at idle doesnt mean its not lean everywhere else. It is, but not enough to throw a code.
 
he has a custom tune from the same shop I do.

you should have a cat inefficiency code as well. i wouldnt go around trying to trick the ecu with the O2 sensors since thats just begging for trouble.

a lean condition code means exactly that. you are running lean. which means you have a leak in the intake system and the car isnt getting accurate air readings. running lean = boom. just because it is throwing codes at idle doesnt mean its not lean everywhere else. It is, but not enough to throw a code.

I only modified the downstream O2 so I don't see how that would effect my performance or engine reliability.

Yes, it sounds weird, but I don't see how I can have a lean code at idle and not with a load but there it is. If I did have an air leak on a load, I'd be sucking in larger volumes of unmetered air at higher RPMs. I don't see how my car can register the minute leak at idle but not the larger one while driving (which probably means that there's something that's only associated with idle conditions). Plus my CEL only turns on while I'm idling after driving some amount. It only comes on once every two weeks or so and only when I'm at idle for a substantial amount of time. I've tried using a propane bottle to look for a leak while using a scanner to monitor my STFT and LTFT but I haven't had any success.

BTW, anyone know what shops usually charge for a custom tune?
 
you can have a lean code at idle only, i did as well. once you pass 20% on the trims it throws the CEL. At idle I was at 20.xx and off idle was at 18.xx. so its not enough to throw a code but its there nonetheless

a custom tune will cost you around 500
 
Ok i see there is no catless map setup. Am i out of the loop when it came to mods? Or would i just have to do a custom tune? Because i would like to run the maps for a while until i can afford a custom tune. just a quick Q (lol2)
 
Ok i see there is no catless map setup. Am i out of the loop when it came to mods? Or would i just have to do a custom tune? Because i would like to run the maps for a while until i can afford a custom tune. just a quick Q (lol2)

gonna need a custom tune

either a protune or make a map in ATR depending on your skill levels and bravery
 

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