Cobb AP Discussion Thread

[Meydron]

I just got my AP back from cobb after having it fixed. I went in and changed the LC and FFS limits to where i wanted them and uploaded the map into my car. Well for some reason the LC limiter become my Rev limiter at all times so the car wouldnt go above 4K RPMs. So i went back out to reflash a new map onto it and halfway through the flash a screen came up saying cannot communicate with vehicle. And now every time i try to uninstall it and flash the ecu it gives me that screen. My car wont even start now, not sure what to do to fix it. Anyone had this problem?

 

[Meydron]

I think i found the problem, i'm pretty sure it's the dongle where the mini usb hooks up to it, it seems to be very loose and barely moving the cable makes it lose connection altogether. Anyone know where i can get another dongle at? I really need my car running asap cause it is my only mode of transportation.

 

[79535]

I think i found the problem, i'm pretty sure it's the dongle where the mini usb hooks up to it, it seems to be very loose and barely moving the cable makes it lose connection altogether. Anyone know where i can get another dongle at? I really need my car running asap cause it is my only mode of transportation.

Where are you from? You either have to get one from a Cobb dealer or borrow one from someone else.

 

[Meydron]

I'm in missouri, about an hour from Saint Louis.

 

[79535]

Well, I won't be much help from Canada, but I would post up in the regional and general forums asking for anyone with your version of AP meet up with you to reflash your car.

Cobb is also great with customer service. Perhaps they would be able to overnight you a dongle.

I wish I could help you out more. I know it's a terrible feeling when your car is down.

 

[Meydron]

yea, it just sucks cause it was halfway done flashing, then bam, all of a sudden it couldnt communicate with the ecu anymore. and if the dongle/ wire got moved at all it shut off. Tried 4 different usb cords, same result. So i'm pretty sure its the dongle. When i look at the pins on it, the one sticks out about 3mm farther then the others.

 

[79535]

It's normal on the dongle for the OBD2 side to have one pin longer than the others. Mine did as well on my "old AP" with the usb connection.

The usb side should not have a longer pin though as far as I know.

 

[Meydron]

I don't know then, with my luck im sure im gonna have to send in my AP and ECU.

 

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

ok quick question...mazda just got done working on my car...and said they had to remove the battery....now..i have a custom map installed on the car already....so if they removed the battery does that mean it erased my tune? can anyone answer this for me? thanks!

 

[FORZDA 1]

ok quick question...mazda just got done working on my car...and said they had to remove the battery....now..i have a custom map installed on the car already....so if they removed the battery does that mean it erased my tune? can anyone answer this for me? thanks!

No, the maps are flashed into non-volatile memory. The only way to affect it is to re-flash. Hopefully the dealer didn't dick with the ECU and flash some Mazda OEM tune into it.....

 

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

thanks for the fast reply forzda ...i will ask them if they installed anything to the computer..but i doubt they did. if i plug in my cobb ap will it tell me what map i have installed if they applied their stock map?

 

[FORZDA 1]

thanks for the fast reply forzda ...i will ask them if they installed anything to the computer..but i doubt they did. if i plug in my cobb ap will it tell me what map i have installed if they applied their stock map?

The AP will not read the map if they re-flashed the ECU, so you will know for sure whether they messed with it or not. If it doesn't read, then just reflash your AP map and your good. Oh, you said you have a custom tune done by someone else? If so and you don't have the map in ATR, then you'll need to return to the tuning source for the map to reflash. Hopefully you're still "flashed"! LOL

 

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

i have all my custom maps saved at home on my labtop...so if something happened i can just reinstall it then...no big deal....thanks for the help forzda!!!

 

[mysleeper6]

Sent my second request for ATR on Monday. They auto-replied that it could take up to 24 hours to respond. It's been 4 days and still no luck. Anybody else have this problem?

 

[dougefresh_]

Sent my second request for ATR on Monday. They auto-replied that it could take up to 24 hours to respond. It's been 4 days and still no luck. Anybody else have this problem?

Here you go dude, I hosted the .exe of the new version of ATR for you on Mediafire:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/jn2rzyjtd0i/MAZDASPEED_Race_Setup(4).exe

And here's the AP updater:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/jxndkzqzbkk/AccessPORTUpdater(4).exe

Just check the version numbers to make sure they are correct. I'd also uninstall them, and re-install them one you finally get ATR from Cobb. I'm not sure if they lock maps via S/N. But you can at least play around with it and check it out.

 

[mysleeper6]

Thanks!

 

[pmpott]

Hey all, tuning newb here. My AP should be arriving in the mail today and I'm anxious to throw my first tune on. My current mods are PG SRI, PG TIP, and a CP-E cat back exhaust. I'm guessing I should run a stage 1 until I get a downpipe. My question is which one should I use? There are so many variations on the Cobb and mzdspd.com websites. Also, what's the difference between the stage 1 and the stage 1+?

 

[Blendercloud]

Hey all, tuning newb here. My AP should be arriving in the mail today and I'm anxious to throw my first tune on. My current mods are PG SRI, PG TIP, and a CP-E cat back exhaust. I'm guessing I should run a stage 1 until I get a downpipe. My question is which one should I use? There are so many variations on the Cobb and mzdspd.com websites. Also, what's the difference between the stage 1 and the stage 1+?

If you have a test pipe to replace the 2nd catalytic converter, you'd be best off running a stage 2 map. Either way, I would probably start with a Stage 1 93 +SF or Stage 2 93 +SF depending on test pipe and octane available.

 

[petoria]

What map do you guys suggest I run with the mods I have?

That being said, with CS SRI/TIP, CS Racepipe, Denso ITV22, MF CBE, Forge BPV (blue spring, no shims)

 

[mysleeper6]

Here you go dude, I hosted the .exe of the new version of ATR for you on Mediafire:

Alright, I'm a little confused. Maybe I didn't read far enough, or maybe is because I'm juggling too many things right now, but I looked at the help file for step 1, datalogging and calibrating MAF settings. I get the part about what to log and how to do it, but then it talks about breakpoints for the calibration, but it sort of leaves you hanging at that point. So, I datalog, get a graph, but what the hell do I do with that info? What tables am I adjusting and based on what info? Any help for an overtaxed (April 15 pun intended) noob to tuning?