Cobb AP Discussion Thread
- Thread starter djdanny5000
- Start date
- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
I set my first alert to 10, I don't watch it unless I start to feel any hesitation. Too many people see knock on the DH/AP and it's just timing adjustment, which is going to happen.
lynnriderm6
Member
i just want to say i love LC! lol
yeah, if your unsure, just start with the mildest map. maybe do some datalogging. that way you have a progression in which to base comparisons betweens maps.
Ok took me two days but I have read every post on this thread. I definitely want to purchase the AP over the Standback. Seems a lot easier to get up and running immediately and then you are free to tune as you go. makes a lot of sense.
Now that I am familiar with the last year and half of all of your struggles I have my questions for the Gurus of the AP.
First question is.
I have itv-22 Denso Iridium plugs. The Sellers state that they come at a gap of .30-.32 out of the box. How do you adjust them to .28 when it is specifically stated in every service manual and parts computer and online to not gap iridium plugs???
Second Question
I know someone has asked this before but I did not see an answer. My affecting mods include
CPE NANO Ram Air
CPE Turbo Inlet
CPE Single Exit Cat Back
SU Test Pipe
ETS TMIC
SU Boost Tubes
Turbo Smart BOV (full recirc)
And the Denso ITV-22 Iridium plugs (hopefully with a gap of .30-.32)
What map do you recommend? The best fit I can see from the information on this thread is to go with the Stage2+TIHSF 93 v102 + TMIC only concern as was asked on a previous page is the SF which i know is for the cobb and I have a cpe-nano.... I do not feel they make much of a difference I think the only difference is the nano has an air straightener.... other than that they are both short ram intakes and do not have that much of a difference. Thought the CPE I feel is of better build quality being metal.
My final and most concerning issue is I have been experiencing fuel cuts.
The temperature in Toronto Canada is 10F and can get as warm as 32F in the winter and sometimes even colder! Since I installed the CPE Turbo Inlet I have been getting Fuel Cuts in 4th gear at WOT. Pretty scary the first few times. I looked into lots of solutions but I was told by Street Unit that the cause is that I am pulling in a lot of dense air causing the turbo to spool up very quickly which is making a lot of boost. 18-20 psi is what I have seen on my DH so I am getting a fuel cut from this. I was advised that the AP could relieve this issue. What are your thoughts on that? My main objective of this purchase is to aleviate my fuel cuts in a safe manor. The performance enhancements are just a bonus.
Thanks for the input everyone. This thread has sold me on the AP and I hope it can help to fix my fuel cut issues.
Now that I am familiar with the last year and half of all of your struggles I have my questions for the Gurus of the AP.
First question is.
I have itv-22 Denso Iridium plugs. The Sellers state that they come at a gap of .30-.32 out of the box. How do you adjust them to .28 when it is specifically stated in every service manual and parts computer and online to not gap iridium plugs???
Second Question
I know someone has asked this before but I did not see an answer. My affecting mods include
CPE NANO Ram Air
CPE Turbo Inlet
CPE Single Exit Cat Back
SU Test Pipe
ETS TMIC
SU Boost Tubes
Turbo Smart BOV (full recirc)
And the Denso ITV-22 Iridium plugs (hopefully with a gap of .30-.32)
What map do you recommend? The best fit I can see from the information on this thread is to go with the Stage2+TIHSF 93 v102 + TMIC only concern as was asked on a previous page is the SF which i know is for the cobb and I have a cpe-nano.... I do not feel they make much of a difference I think the only difference is the nano has an air straightener.... other than that they are both short ram intakes and do not have that much of a difference. Thought the CPE I feel is of better build quality being metal.
My final and most concerning issue is I have been experiencing fuel cuts.
The temperature in Toronto Canada is 10F and can get as warm as 32F in the winter and sometimes even colder! Since I installed the CPE Turbo Inlet I have been getting Fuel Cuts in 4th gear at WOT. Pretty scary the first few times. I looked into lots of solutions but I was told by Street Unit that the cause is that I am pulling in a lot of dense air causing the turbo to spool up very quickly which is making a lot of boost. 18-20 psi is what I have seen on my DH so I am getting a fuel cut from this. I was advised that the AP could relieve this issue. What are your thoughts on that? My main objective of this purchase is to aleviate my fuel cuts in a safe manor. The performance enhancements are just a bonus.
Thanks for the input everyone. This thread has sold me on the AP and I hope it can help to fix my fuel cut issues.
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- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
To answer your questions:
1 - You can gap iridium plugs, but the tolerances are recommended to be no more than +/- .006, since the tips are fragile.
2 - You can try the map you suggested, but you could also run a Stage 2 map (generic) and go from there, and eventually get an e-tune or dyno tune from a local shop. Seems like more people run the Cobb parts for the tuning ease with the AP, but that doesn't mean you can't run CP-e or other parts. Just monitor knock and AFR to make sure your values are safe and you'll be fine.
1 - You can gap iridium plugs, but the tolerances are recommended to be no more than +/- .006, since the tips are fragile.
2 - You can try the map you suggested, but you could also run a Stage 2 map (generic) and go from there, and eventually get an e-tune or dyno tune from a local shop. Seems like more people run the Cobb parts for the tuning ease with the AP, but that doesn't mean you can't run CP-e or other parts. Just monitor knock and AFR to make sure your values are safe and you'll be fine.
- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
Thanks!
How do you suggest I gap the plugs? Is there a guide for that? I know its pretty simple but I have one shot at it....
And do you feel the AP will solve my fuel cut issues?
My other option is put the stock airbox back in for the winter
I'm not having issues with fuel/boost cut with the AP this year, so I think you'll be alright. Just gap your plugs with the feeler gauge, nothing special.
7
79535
To close the gap on the plugs, just tap them on a table or something solid. Just don't over do it. After you've tapped it a few times, measure the gap with a feeler gauge taking care to be gentle on the tip of the electrode.
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79535
There are a couple of different ones. The two that I have you just push in between the electrode and ground and it bends the electrode to a certain gap. One is a disk and the other has little "hoops" that you slip between the electrode and ground.
They are spark plugs man, they are not that fragile. The only part you want to be careful with is the electrode and ceramic. Just tap it on a table a few times and measure it. Repeat this until it is properly gapped. Also, make sure the electrode stays centered on the ground strap.
There are tools that will do a more precise job, but you have to buy them.
Here is a link to Google images of spark plug gapping tools
http://images.google.ca/images?rlz=1C1GGLS_enCA347CA347&sourceid=chrome&q=spark%20plug%20gap%20tool&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi
They are spark plugs man, they are not that fragile. The only part you want to be careful with is the electrode and ceramic. Just tap it on a table a few times and measure it. Repeat this until it is properly gapped. Also, make sure the electrode stays centered on the ground strap.
There are tools that will do a more precise job, but you have to buy them.
Here is a link to Google images of spark plug gapping tools
http://images.google.ca/images?rlz=1C1GGLS_enCA347CA347&sourceid=chrome&q=spark%20plug%20gap%20tool&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi
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79535
Proper Gapping
In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.
This was sourced straight from NGK's website. Good luck man
In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.
This was sourced straight from NGK's website. Good luck man
with a CP-e intake and Turbo Inlet with a bov and test pipe... anyone have any idea what tune would probably work best?
I'm running stage 1 problem free as it is... however I am starting to wonder if i'm missing out... seems to be a shortage of anyone running CPe products with COBB AP... who says they cant be friends?
I'm running stage 1 problem free as it is... however I am starting to wonder if i'm missing out... seems to be a shortage of anyone running CPe products with COBB AP... who says they cant be friends?
Thanks for the advice everyone! I will let you know how it goes when I get the AP!
LEO
I feel the CPE intake and inlet are very similar to the COBB products and should not cause different responses from the COBB maps.
Of course COBB wants you to buy their products and therefore states the maps are specific. Sure they may have been tuned with COBB parts but come on. Its an air intake and inlet hose both at 3 inches in diameter....
I am mostly CPE and I am going for the AP.
Unless I am missing something here. Leo I think we will be fine. From what I have read and what other have said I have not heard of any major issues with this tuning solution for CPE or COBB people.
Just hope it alleviates these fuel cuts in the sub zero temperatures we have up in Canada....
LEO
I feel the CPE intake and inlet are very similar to the COBB products and should not cause different responses from the COBB maps.
Of course COBB wants you to buy their products and therefore states the maps are specific. Sure they may have been tuned with COBB parts but come on. Its an air intake and inlet hose both at 3 inches in diameter....
I am mostly CPE and I am going for the AP.
Unless I am missing something here. Leo I think we will be fine. From what I have read and what other have said I have not heard of any major issues with this tuning solution for CPE or COBB people.
Just hope it alleviates these fuel cuts in the sub zero temperatures we have up in Canada....
what about the fujita(spelling escapes me atm) maps? would they work for the CPE CAI? since the suck fromt he wheel weel too and look sorta similar... minus hte maf location(prolly the reason it wont work for this intake)
stage one has been working great so far... im hitting the boost targets and all... what i am wondering is if anyone with actual tuning knowledge can maybe do a little "why its so" write-up on why different intakes need different maps... i belive with what little i know so far(give me a break im only 24... with time my friends ill know it all muahahaha) anyways... just like you cant replace your IC with a front mount and expect ur car to run... without throwing a CEL... volume of your intake system matters alot... if your MAF if ten miles from your engine... sure u push the gass... but your gonna be spraying fuel into an engine that is completely empty of air... or am i wrong? I would think on a MAP sensor based car... you can throw a CONE filter on the throttle body and itll be OK... but since we got a maf.. with 5 feet of pipe behind it...(i don't understand y all manufacturers put a MAP sensor on cars but run MAFs for air intake purposes? yet most tuners use the MAP sensor for air intake control... i think a MAP based system is the only answer for a stable BOV incorporating intake?)
anyways my engine tuning knowlege is quite limited, and although i try to pick up as much as i can... these modern engine defy me... if anyone has a good suggestion for a book i can pick up to get started thats a n easy read(i don't mean pictures... i mean not just facts in paragraph form but more like a conversation or coherent lecture) cuz i am insanely curious about all the LTFT and STFT and PIDs stuff i've been so mezmorized by for the last 4 years of owning mazdas...
anyways... i wonder who put up the map for a CPECAI with a LAIC? is LAIC a liquid to air intercooler or is that like a liquid air ic sprayer?
is there a way to say share maps on that site... cuz i was thinking maybe some people with similar mods could band together to pay for dyno time for a car in order to get a more similar map for theirs? just an idea... but we should organize a bit more... i think with a bit of team work... we can beat up all those sti and evo driving bastards! (2thumbs)
as far as the inlet though i agree... i think the turbo inlets are all the same damn thing, as long as your replace that joke of a stock unit... which flys off the turbo if you manage to get an upgraded BPV
stage one has been working great so far... im hitting the boost targets and all... what i am wondering is if anyone with actual tuning knowledge can maybe do a little "why its so" write-up on why different intakes need different maps... i belive with what little i know so far(give me a break im only 24... with time my friends ill know it all muahahaha) anyways... just like you cant replace your IC with a front mount and expect ur car to run... without throwing a CEL... volume of your intake system matters alot... if your MAF if ten miles from your engine... sure u push the gass... but your gonna be spraying fuel into an engine that is completely empty of air... or am i wrong? I would think on a MAP sensor based car... you can throw a CONE filter on the throttle body and itll be OK... but since we got a maf.. with 5 feet of pipe behind it...(i don't understand y all manufacturers put a MAP sensor on cars but run MAFs for air intake purposes? yet most tuners use the MAP sensor for air intake control... i think a MAP based system is the only answer for a stable BOV incorporating intake?)
anyways my engine tuning knowlege is quite limited, and although i try to pick up as much as i can... these modern engine defy me... if anyone has a good suggestion for a book i can pick up to get started thats a n easy read(i don't mean pictures... i mean not just facts in paragraph form but more like a conversation or coherent lecture) cuz i am insanely curious about all the LTFT and STFT and PIDs stuff i've been so mezmorized by for the last 4 years of owning mazdas...
anyways... i wonder who put up the map for a CPECAI with a LAIC? is LAIC a liquid to air intercooler or is that like a liquid air ic sprayer?
is there a way to say share maps on that site... cuz i was thinking maybe some people with similar mods could band together to pay for dyno time for a car in order to get a more similar map for theirs? just an idea... but we should organize a bit more... i think with a bit of team work... we can beat up all those sti and evo driving bastards! (2thumbs)
as far as the inlet though i agree... i think the turbo inlets are all the same damn thing, as long as your replace that joke of a stock unit... which flys off the turbo if you manage to get an upgraded BPV
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Wait you have a Cold Air Intake from CPE? K that will be different then......
I spoke to cobb today. They said that you can try similar maps and they should work they just wont be AS good as if they do the Etune for you.
What they do is have you send them very specific diagnostics taken with the AP and then build you a map based off those....
I think eventually I will want an E-tune but they told me it is worth first trying out what is available. Just match up as best you can and you should be fine.
LAIC is Liquid to Air Intercooler.
Yes they told me the inlets are essentially the exact same. What you should be concerned about is everything before the MAF
Each intake is a little different so they cannot say with certainty that each pulls the same air in the same fashion and to keep that in mind when selecting a tune....
I spoke to cobb today. They said that you can try similar maps and they should work they just wont be AS good as if they do the Etune for you.
What they do is have you send them very specific diagnostics taken with the AP and then build you a map based off those....
I think eventually I will want an E-tune but they told me it is worth first trying out what is available. Just match up as best you can and you should be fine.
LAIC is Liquid to Air Intercooler.
Yes they told me the inlets are essentially the exact same. What you should be concerned about is everything before the MAF
Each intake is a little different so they cannot say with certainty that each pulls the same air in the same fashion and to keep that in mind when selecting a tune....
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79535
You can disconnect your battery without losing the installed map. The only thing is you will have to wait for your ECU to relearn the map (monitor fuel trims).
boost spike
I have an 07 ms3 with forge bpv, mazdaspeed cai, test pipe, and pg tip. I am running the stage 1 + mscai2 93 map. my boost has been spiking to 22.2 psi. Is this caused by the test pipe? Should I be using the stage 2 map. Also, I have just received my 1 step colder plugs, but have not installed them yet (it has been cold as hell around here). Could this help? I have also been getting a lot of kr under light acceleration. Will the plugs help with the kr? Any advise you guys can give me is greatly appreciated.
I have an 07 ms3 with forge bpv, mazdaspeed cai, test pipe, and pg tip. I am running the stage 1 + mscai2 93 map. my boost has been spiking to 22.2 psi. Is this caused by the test pipe? Should I be using the stage 2 map. Also, I have just received my 1 step colder plugs, but have not installed them yet (it has been cold as hell around here). Could this help? I have also been getting a lot of kr under light acceleration. Will the plugs help with the kr? Any advise you guys can give me is greatly appreciated.
