Clutch Master shutter

1sty

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2006 Toyota Tundra DC
Is it normal for the Clutchmaster stage I to stutter a bit when shifting into and out of 2nd gear? When down shiffting to slow down or coming from 1st to 2nd the car shutters no matter how easily I let off the clutch. Could this be install related?
 
clutch master clutches are notorious for shuttering. I would have personally bought an ACT clutch. But yes it is normal they have very high loads on the clutch and it causes shuttering if you do not let out of the clutch fast enough.
 
Does it fade a little over time, its only a weak onld and backed by the findanza flywheel?
 
it may fade over time but my buddy has one in his Type R and it still shutters, he has had it for 8 months now.
 
Well I chose and I guess I get to live with it, ohwell atleast the install is cleared.
I figured I just mostly need to relearn how to drive the car
 
chdesign said:
clutch master clutches are notorious for shuttering. I would have personally bought an ACT clutch. But yes it is normal they have very high loads on the clutch and it causes shuttering if you do not let out of the clutch fast enough.

Damn, that sucks! I have a nasty clutch chatter on the stock clutch of my P5 and was thinking of getting a clutchmasters and flywheel to cure it. If I had spent close to a grand on a flywheel, clutch, and install, and it still chattered, I would go nuts!

Having high loads on the clutch, I would think that would clamp down the clutch real nice and keep it from stuttering/chattering? Maybe somebody can explain what causes it, cause I don't seem to get it.
 
my ranger does the same when downshifting coming to a stop, but it also has a centerforce dual friction, super heavy duty, top of the line model, clutch in it. I use it to pull a sea doo boat with in the summer and i couldnt have any slippage ordeals, so i went for the best holding clutch i could find, and i learned that with the higher clamping force and when downshifting it will shudder pretty bad, so i just dont do it, i stick to the saying "its cheaper to replace the brakes than the tranny/clutch"
 
Little Beavis said:
1st. . .did you do the install or did you pay someone to do it? And if so, can I ask how much?

It cost about $400-$440 for the install. i can't remeber much.

As I have learned to redrive the car the shutter is very minimal.
 
Thanks. . .the dealership here quoted me $440. So, I guess they're consistent. Just don't know if I want to take the car there with the turbo, but then again, it isn't like I could hide the turbo anyway. Guess there's no reason to not to take it there unless I find a better place.

So the recommendations are for the ACT clutch and which flywheel?
 
i had shutter at first too, then it went away when i learned to redrive the car.

tom from kartboy has some not so nice things to say about the ACT clutches.

i like my clutchmasters, its been good to me since november. but im not turboed like you guys... yet.
 
There is a write up comparing the ACT and Clutchmasters on RR-racing.com
 
Here it is:


FAQ

How do Clutch Masters clutches compare to the ACT clutches?

Both the ACT II and Clutch Masters STAGE I have equal torque holding capability. The ACT II has been popular with probe owners in the past because ACT was willing to do bulk buys to give the appearance of offering a low price. In reality, RR-Racing sells the Stage I CM for less than the ACT bulk buy, and we feel the CM clutch is *better*! Both ACT II and CM I utilize a modified 40% stiffer pressure plate and organic disk. However, two factors make the Clutchmasters kit better then ACT. First, the Clutchmasters pressure plate, while achieving the same plate load as the ACT, has a much lighter pedal. Light pedal load is important because it transfers less force to the crank thrust bearings -- hard clutches put excess load on the crank (and your foot). A secondary factor that makes the Clutchmasters clutch better than the ACT is the disk construction. Below is a picture taken of the back of the Clutch Masters disk (left) and the ACT/stock disk (right) once it has been separated from the disk assembly. As you can see, the Clutch Masters disk on the left has a steel backing. The metal backing provides for a more durable friction surface that actually serves to pull heat away from the surfaces (metal is a very good conductor) -- and that's what makes the Clutch Masters BETTER.



Clutch Masters disk (left) OEM/ACT (right)



The STAGE III Clutch Masters clutch is equivalent in holding capacity to a 6 puck ACT clutch, BUT, because of the segmented Kevlar construction it retains easy engagement and will not break your transmission. The Clutchmasters Stage III Kevlar clutch is simply the best clutch money can buy
 
paulmp3 said:
Here it is:


FAQ

How do Clutch Masters clutches compare to the ACT clutches?

Both the ACT II and Clutch Masters STAGE I have equal torque holding capability. The ACT II has been popular with probe owners in the past because ACT was willing to do bulk buys to give the appearance of offering a low price. In reality, RR-Racing sells the Stage I CM for less than the ACT bulk buy, and we feel the CM clutch is *better*! Both ACT II and CM I utilize a modified 40% stiffer pressure plate and organic disk. However, two factors make the Clutchmasters kit better then ACT. First, the Clutchmasters pressure plate, while achieving the same plate load as the ACT, has a much lighter pedal. Light pedal load is important because it transfers less force to the crank thrust bearings -- hard clutches put excess load on the crank (and your foot). A secondary factor that makes the Clutchmasters clutch better than the ACT is the disk construction. Below is a picture taken of the back of the Clutch Masters disk (left) and the ACT/stock disk (right) once it has been separated from the disk assembly. As you can see, the Clutch Masters disk on the left has a steel backing. The metal backing provides for a more durable friction surface that actually serves to pull heat away from the surfaces (metal is a very good conductor) -- and that's what makes the Clutch Masters BETTER.



Clutch Masters disk (left) OEM/ACT (right)



The STAGE III Clutch Masters clutch is equivalent in holding capacity to a 6 puck ACT clutch, BUT, because of the segmented Kevlar construction it retains easy engagement and will not break your transmission. The Clutchmasters Stage III Kevlar clutch is simply the best clutch money can buy

I think the grain of salt meathod is needed here as this is a write by someone that sells the clutchmaster and not the ACT.
For exampe, did you notice there was no mentioning that the clutchmaster will shutter and the ACT will not.
 

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