Clutch bleeding picture needed

[InTheClutch]

I need to bleed my clutch. I've searched this forum high and low, but did not find a picture of the bleed nipple. I know what it looks like, but I can't find it. I don't know exactly where it is, or how to get to it. I did check the repair manual, but wasn't able to match up the diagram with my engine.

I have a 2003 Mazda Protege 5.

If someone could please post a photograph of the bleed nipple, I would be very appreciative.

 

[flash75]

I cannot post a photo, I have an automatic. Go back to the shop manual page
05-10-3 for the clutch bleeding diagram. The bleeder is on the clutch release/
slave cylinder.

The slave cylinder is located on the transmission bell housing. See item #4 on
the clutch component location index drawing on page 05-10-2. Based on the drawing it appears to be on front side of the bell housing. The bleeder nipple should be near
the top of the cylinder in the area where the hard fluid pipe is attached. They mention
using a special wrench, normally a small metric box wrench fits most bleeder nipples.
Try a 7mm. Hope this helps.

Clifton

 

[InTheClutch]

Clifton,

Thank you for the effort. I still can't make heads or tails out of it. But I had another idea.

Here are some pictures of my engine area.

Can anyone point out the bleed nipple for the clutch?

 

[Shadow102]

your pictures are mostly looking in the completely wrong place. The slave cyl. bleeder nipple is on the front of the trans bolted to the bell housing. I marked an arrow on the picture below. Basically remove the air box and associated hardware that on top of the radiator and look down at the front of the trans.

 

[InTheClutch]

Thanks for the tip. I unscrewed the two bolts holding in the air box, and, voila, there was the elusive bleed plug. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Shadow102]

yep that would be it

 

[P-Funk!]

You should not have to bleed it as maintenance - look for a leak (unless you replaced a component - then - nevermind )

 

[InTheClutch]

I tried to replace my front brake pads and rotors. I wasn't able to remove the driver's side rotor, despite hammering on it. I put everything back together, and then learned my clutch was mysteriously dead. I'm hoping the bleed technique will bring it back to life and allow me to drive it to a mechanic.

 

[Shadow102]

hows the brake fluid level?

To get the rotor off use a hammer and beat the rotor between the studs to free up the rust in that area. If that doesnt work get a large hammer and a block of wood, place the wood on the exposed back side of the rotor and hammer on it (the wood is so you dont destroy the rotor. Also i cant remember if the protege has it or not but some car rotors will have two small threaded holes a m8x1.25 bolt should thread into (usually a bolt with a 12mm head) if it has them the rotor will pop off easily.

 

[nilsonov]

hows the brake fluid level?

To get the rotor off use a hammer and beat the rotor between the studs to free up the rust in that area. If that doesnt work get a large hammer and a block of wood, place the wood on the exposed back side of the rotor and hammer on it (the wood is so you dont destroy the rotor. Also i cant remember if the protege has it or not but some car rotors will have two small threaded holes a m8x1.25 bolt should thread into (usually a bolt with a 12mm head) if it has them the rotor will pop off easily.

Shadow, i discoverd this this weekend. VERY helpful, and not only that, but the bolt that holds that jack in place (in the trunk compartment) is the exact one needed!

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

This is true, but my rotor was so rusted that it messed up that jack bolt!