Clunk occasionally in sixth gear

sfollenius

Member
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2007 CX-9 Sport AWD
My 2007 CX-9 Sport occasionally will Clunk (it almost feels like an attempt to downshift but doesn't). I am at about 63,000 miles now. There doesn't seem to be method other than in sixth gear and you try to accelerate slightly, this is what happens. The display, however, does not change from 6. It doesn't happen with a fast acceleration, only when you push the pedal to accelerate slightly while in sixth gear, no other problems in any other gears. Any ideas? Luckily, I do have a power train warranty, but it doesn't happen all the time, so I am not sure they will be able to duplicate. Is it possible there is a registered code without the check engine light coming on?
 
It sounds like the lockup torque converter issue.
At 6th gear, the lockup torque convertor engages to be fuel efficient when cruising.
When you press on the gas pedal, the said lockup needs to let go, and shift to 5th and lower.
However, it seems like this is not happening as expected.

My two cents, of course.
Visit the dealer at least to log the problem even if they can't reproduce it now.
 
Did you ever get any resolution to this issue cause my 2008 has the exactly the same symptom, I would have described it the same way myself. Funny thing is it never happens with the cruise control engaged?
 
Did you ever get any resolution to this issue cause my 2008 has the exactly the same symptom, I would have described it the same way myself. Funny thing is it never happens with the cruise control engaged?

Gosh, same here. I have the same problem. What are the long term issues? Anyone know. Dealer already changed the transmission fluid.
 
An update on where I'm at and read through this thread, I believe it will help you:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ot-trailer-hitching-quot-sensation-in-Drive-6

I read it and decided, that the misfire idea had some merit, so I thought I would start by replacing the spark plugs and checking all ignition coils for secondary resistance. My CX-9 has 70K miles so I was fine with replacing the plugs at this point anyway.

I ordered plugs and went to replace, I checked all the coils and had an open circuit on one coil; the rest checked in at little over 6M ohms for secondary coil resistance. The alldata site says the spec is 5-6 k but I'm positive that's wrong. When I emailed alldata and asked them to double check that spec, the comment was "we don't have another resource to check so we can't give you an answer". Yes, that's really what they told me.

I'm pretty comfortable in assuming that the alldata 5-6 K ohms is an error and it should be 5-6 M ohms. after finding the coil with the open circuit, I decided to order 6 new coils, delivered they were $425; this is a lot but although it's pretty basic to replace the coils and plugs on this car, it does take some time and I really don't want to do it again after having the chamber off twice now. In another thread on this forum, someone had replaced 3 of the 6 and wished they had done all of them so I made the call to replace all six.

On the plugs, I seriously have to question the 100K interval that the dealer told me, at 70K to me these plugs look like they should have been replaced about 40K miles ago. Motor-craft platinums are what came out; I went back together with the Denso iridium plugs. So one of the guys in the "trailer hitching" thread I believe had a cracked plug; to be fair none of mine were cracked, and I looked real close, but both the ground and center electrodes were worn, I say a least .020 inch based what I believe the stock gap looked like. Someone's going to call me out on the .020 so I could post some pictures if that helps anyone.

If the coil was the problem, and it was an undisputed open circuit, the only way I can figure that the cruise control mitigated the symptom is by better control of the throttle body than my foot.

I guess at this point time will tell, there's certainly a risk that the problem will reoccur but with no codes, unfortunately the above is the best I could come up.

In summary; check plugs and coils; what needed to be replaced based on inspection was 6 spark plugs and one coil. I made the election to replace the other 5 coils in an attempt/anticipation that if one coil was bad the other were not far behind. If your going to do this make sure to use a meter and check the coils.

Hope this helps?
 
An update on where I'm at and read through this thread, I believe it will help you:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ot-trailer-hitching-quot-sensation-in-Drive-6

I read it and decided, that the misfire idea had some merit, so I thought I would start by replacing the spark plugs and checking all ignition coils for secondary resistance. My CX-9 has 70K miles so I was fine with replacing the plugs at this point anyway.

I ordered plugs and went to replace, I checked all the coils and had an open circuit on one coil; the rest checked in at little over 6M ohms for secondary coil resistance. The alldata site says the spec is 5-6 k but I'm positive that's wrong. When I emailed alldata and asked them to double check that spec, the comment was "we don't have another resource to check so we can't give you an answer". Yes, that's really what they told me.

I'm pretty comfortable in assuming that the alldata 5-6 K ohms is an error and it should be 5-6 M ohms. after finding the coil with the open circuit, I decided to order 6 new coils, delivered they were $425; this is a lot but although it's pretty basic to replace the coils and plugs on this car, it does take some time and I really don't want to do it again after having the chamber off twice now. In another thread on this forum, someone had replaced 3 of the 6 and wished they had done all of them so I made the call to replace all six.

On the plugs, I seriously have to question the 100K interval that the dealer told me, at 70K to me these plugs look like they should have been replaced about 40K miles ago. Motor-craft platinums are what came out; I went back together with the Denso iridium plugs. So one of the guys in the "trailer hitching" thread I believe had a cracked plug; to be fair none of mine were cracked, and I looked real close, but both the ground and center electrodes were worn, I say a least .020 inch based what I believe the stock gap looked like. Someone's going to call me out on the .020 so I could post some pictures if that helps anyone.

If the coil was the problem, and it was an undisputed open circuit, the only way I can figure that the cruise control mitigated the symptom is by better control of the throttle body than my foot.

I guess at this point time will tell, there's certainly a risk that the problem will reoccur but with no codes, unfortunately the above is the best I could come up.

In summary; check plugs and coils; what needed to be replaced based on inspection was 6 spark plugs and one coil. I made the election to replace the other 5 coils in an attempt/anticipation that if one coil was bad the other were not far behind. If your going to do this make sure to use a meter and check the coils.

Hope this helps?
Update: After 2 weeks the car is running great with no more "clunk in 6th gear". I was hesitant about this being the root cause but the problem has not reoccurred. Thanks to all who posted their experiences with similar issues. Without this forum I wouldn't have even thought of the ignition system being the culprit.
 
Update: After 2 weeks the car is running great with no more "clunk in 6th gear". I was hesitant about this being the root cause but the problem has not reoccurred. Thanks to all who posted their experiences with similar issues. Without this forum I wouldn't have even thought of the ignition system being the culprit.

Thanks for following up with the feedback MonsterEmma. Too often on forums people say they'll let us all know how their changes/upgrades go and they never come back to do so.

I too have the 'fish-biting' in 6th gear (sometimes 5th and 4th). The Mazda dealer is none the wiser and can't replicate the problem. It seems to only occur in my car during the first 20 minutes of driving after sitting overnight, and on slight inclinations only in auto or cruise. Does not happen when I shift to manual mode. I see on the forum this 'cylinder misfiring' is a common problem (there's multiple threads on the topic, so you've all helped me self-diagnose this issue. I'll take the car to an auto electrician now who knows what he's doing (more-so than the dealer service dept. anyway) and get it sorted.

Cheers.
 
Update: After 2 weeks the car is running great with no more "clunk in 6th gear". I was hesitant about this being the root cause but the problem has not reoccurred. Thanks to all who posted their experiences with similar issues. Without this forum I wouldn't have even thought of the ignition system being the culprit.


I've been experiencing the exact same symptoms. Only in 6th gear, but then I kick into manual mode or cruise control, completely disappears. Did this end up resolving your issue in the long run beyond the 2 weeks of your last post ?
 
I also am experiencing this again. My plugs only have 20k on them but the vehicle has 110k overall. What are the specs for the coils?
 
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