Chuyler1's new audio install log.

The subs are Eclipse. The Components are DLS. www.dlsamerica.com If I get a decent offer, I will sell my Eclipse 2-way 6.5" components.

I forgot to post these pictures. Here are my 8" Eclipse Subs. 200W RMS.
 

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Clarion DHP7500z review

DSP/EQ came in today. I ghetto rigged it by sticking it in the glove box. I need a separate optical cable to get a true digital connection. Its not your standard digital optical cable connection. I'm not sure where to get one.

Anyway, the DSP adds some nice features to the head unit. The Easy mode provides a 7 band GEQ (Graphic Equalizer) and DSP. I didn't mess with the GEQ but the DSP is more of a play thing. Its funny to hear things as if they were in a great hall but its not something I would want to listen to every day. You really need rear speakers to get most out of it...and I'm usually venomously against rear speakers. The effect worked perfectly for the DJs on the radio...they went from a studio to a high school gymnasium when I turned on the HALL setting.

The Pro mode is more my style. There is a 3-band (separate for front and rear) PEQ (Parameteric EQ) with some presets for different car and speaker configurations. The best sounding one was, coincidently, the small wagon setting. I'm not sure if the subwoofer output gets equalized and if it does whether the front or rear settings affect it. The documentation says nothing.

Pro mode also gives you an SEQ (Spacial Equalizer) instead of the DSP. Again, the setting for a small wagon sounded best...until I started listening to DJs on the radio. It really messed with their sound by separating their voices. The stage was higher and wider but the reverb was unnatural. I'm not sure exactly how the SEQ works. The only configurable settings are diffuse, car width, and car length. The car length had no affect presumably because I didn't have rear speakers. The manual says diffuse compensates for spacial impression (shrug). The jury is still out on this one. I think rear speakers might help.

So after about 20 minutes of playing with the 7500 I decided I needed my bass. I pulled out my MTX amps (including the one that actually worked) and installed the A5. Without adjusting any gains I hopped in the driver's seat. The 7500 adds crossovers (50/80/120/off) to the head unit so I configured them at 80Hz. There is also a subwoofer gain but I didn't have to touch it. The first thing I noticed was the noise floor. The MTX amps always had a hiss to them. The A5 is almost dead silent at zero volume. I didn't crank the volume but the subs sounded deep and full even at low levels. I can't wait to get out on the open road to really put it to the test.

That's all for now. I'm heading up to NH this weekend so I'll be playing with my new toys the whole ride.
 
chuyler1 said:
The subs are Eclipse. The Components are DLS. www.dlsamerica.com If I get a decent offer, I will sell my Eclipse 2-way 6.5" components.

I forgot to post these pictures. Here are my 8" Eclipse Subs. 200W RMS.

lol those things reminds me of my power acustics..(idk how to spell it lol) but mines blue lol n sounds like crap... but really bassy drowns out those civics =)
 
fyi, those components are off-axis components (i think that's what its called). Meaning it will sound best if faced directly into the car.. as opposed to being faced towards you. I don't really know how to explain that any better so here's a pic of mine.

You can see in the bottom right of this pic, even tho it's dark.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=53421

Here's the kicks before paint:
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DSCF0061.JPG


And my temporary trunk mess until I get around to building the fiberglass sub box and buying eq's:
DSCF0057.JPG


On a side note, the DLS speakers are amazing and you'll love them.. although one of my tweeters already kicked the bucket (they don't blow a hole in the surround... they just die completely in most cases) Good thing I have a warranty
 
seeing these just makes me want to play basketball..... I dunno why.....

haha, I'm sure they sound great... but, thats disturbing.....
 
Nice work SP33D. Did you remove the stock kickpanel and replace it with your fabricated one? Could you outline the steps you took to make them? I've done kicks before but everyone has a different technique and every car is different.

If you were closer, I'd stop by to have a listen to them. I'm undecided about where to place the tweeters but a few listening sessions should help that out. How is the sound stage with them mounted like that?
 
if you don't care about soundstage the kick panel is good being that there is plenty of room their. If you are planning on competing you need to put your tweeter as high as you can, preferably on the a-pillar or sail panel on the door. Good kicks with the ur2.5 is fine, there is no need to put them on the pillars or doors. If you have the resources go for it though. As far as staging. If you run everything active and have 6 channels of T-alignment who cares where they are at....you can change when they fire anyway. If your running passive...try to get them close together so you can time left to right at least. With the dls passive crossovers you can delay the tweeter slightly with setting inside to make up for a higher mount of the tweeter.

BTW: Nice kicks sp33d..little hint on the ur2.5 and ur3....the metal mesh over the dome comes off the inside of the baseball grill....you will get a MUCH better midrange response out of the midrange with out it....and still have plenty of protection for the dome.
 
Thanks for the tips. The box buildup will start this weekend (after ZoomZoomLive of course). I'm already amazed at how well the DLS A5 along with the DRX9575rz is sounding so I can't imagine what the Iridiums will sound like.

Although going fully active with separate channels for each speaker sounds great, I'd rather keep it simple. I might go to a few local competitions if things turn out well but I've been saying that for years and haven't entered a single show.

I've been playing with the DSP settings on the head unit for the past week. The PEQ setting for a small wagon smooths out the sound very well. However, I've still got mixed thoughts about the spacial eq. Turning it on widens the sound stage and moves it a little deeper on the hood, but it also lowers it a little and it really breaks up the center image. During solo passages where one instrument is playing it sounds like there are two (one on the left and one on the right). So in short, it's not exactly time-alignment, the manual sucks, and no one seems to know how to configure the damn thing for the best results.
 
my buddy has one still in a box...letme see if he's got the manual for it....ill get some pdfs made if he does.
 
Which manual? I have the manuals for the HU and DSP from Clarion's site. The problem is they don't explain how things work very well.
 
Fabrication of the new subwoofer box and amp rack began today. I completed the base and the intricate 3-piece baffles in about 6 hours. The plan is to have the subwoofers on one side and the amp and crossovers on the other. I'm not sure whether the subwoofers will fire down (hanging from the base piece) or up. I think firing down will sound best but it will cut into my cargo space more. I am constructing everything with the plan that it could go either way depending on my cargo space needs. The amp has a built in fan controller so there will be fans inside the amp rack allowing the amp to be mounted upside down if necessary.

Just so you know what you are looking at in the pictures, the base is 3/4" birch ply. The subwoofer baffle is also 3/4". The second panel is 1/2" birch ply to give a flush look. These two layers will be glued together and fleece will be stretched over them and onto a 1/2" piece that is 1" smaller all around than the base piece to form the enclosure. (It is 1" smaller so the base piece can rest on the cargo tray lip no matter which side is up. It will be covered in black vinyl. The final piece in the baffle is a 1/4" MDF trim panel that will be screwed ontol the fiberglass box to hide the subwoofer trim and mounting screws.

Man...I just had a thought. If I face the subs up, I could put the amp on a sliding drawer that comes out from the bottom. Hmm, I'll have to ponder this for a while.
 

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Another 6 hrs this weekend and 1 hr this evening...

Finished the woodworking. Beveled edges to create smooth lines for the fleece. Cut holes in the base board (so I could fiberglass the inside instead of the outside), and mounted the baffles.

Then I got to work on the fiberglassing. Stretched the fleece using a staple gun to hold everything. Several passes were made to ensure everything was tight and there were no wrinkles. Added a thick layer of resin to the outside and let it dry. Then I repeated on the inside and used small pieces of matte to strengthen the flat sections. Today I added another generous layer of resin to the inside making sure all the nooks and crannies were filled so when I cut off the excess fleece it won't fall apart.

While I was waiting for the fiberglass to cure I started cleaning up the trim panels. I started with a 1/4" rounded bevel router bit. Then I used a 100 grit sanding disc to clean it up a bit. It still needs more work but I think it will turn out nice.
 

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The trim panels...
 

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A new addition to the system came in today. An impulse ebay purchase.

Clarion CDC655z 6-disc CD changer, $45.00.

Now I won't be without my 6-disc changer. Granted I will prolly install it in the trunk but at least I can bounce between 7 CDs without shuffling through my CD wallet.
 

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****...it doesn't work...well I can't get it to eject. It makes lots of noises. I'm going to give it a little help this evening. If I can't the cartridge out I'm sending it back.
 

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