If you see my sig, I'm running relatively stock. Any suggestions to get the HP up a bit more without emptying the wallet? I'm not rich enough to start ripping apart the motor or adding a turbo. Also, Injen CAI vs. Ebay CAI in terms of durability, horsepower, easy of installation?
Cheap Horsepower from Stock?
- Thread starter Moonman8
- Start date
65racecoupe
Member
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- Turbo (soon) Yellow 2002 P5
Save up for forced induction if you want to be fast. Fast to most people is a 14 sec car or better.
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- protege5 2002
make the mp5 on a diet =)
get an intake(ebay/k&n/injen/aem/home made whatever suits ur needs because the difference is price tag), keep the axel back and get a header and leave it at that. the car wont do 14 second quarter miles or accellerate fast from a stop(0 to 60mph), but the car will accellerate at a decent amount of speed while in motion, such as 30mph to 70mph. i have a k&n typhoon intake and mazdaspeed axelback exhaust and i think it's enough for accelleration. im still debating on a header. do some suspension mods(i have racingbeat springs/tokico shocks/mp5 strut bar), larger/wider wheels(which ever one suits ur needs or stay stock), short shifter with bushings(kartboy bushings and twm short shifter was my selections), and you will have a great daily driven car. i think zoom zoom is more about that race car feeling in a daily driven car. once you open up the exhaust, the car has that race car feeling to it in turns and high revs(4.5krpm to 6krpm). the more mods you add to the car, the more problems you will have. look at some of threads on here about car problems(no offense to anyone who has built their car-up). that's pretty much all i can think of right now, so i hope that's helpful to u.
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
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- protege5 2002
peepsalot said:
that what I"M talking about (rockon) (rockon)
cycoutMSP03.5
Member
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- 2003.5 Blazin' Yellow Mazdaspeed Protege
shop around online and look EVERYWHERE!!! you can find a cheaper price if you look for it. I saved ALOT of money on my aftermarket shiznit by shopping around.
ebay is good sometimes, for simple stuff, but shop around.
some people get lazy and buy the first thing they find, i used to do that but i got screwed out of alot of money.
don't want to be pushy but i don't want u to go through the same s*** i did.
later
ry
ebay is good sometimes, for simple stuff, but shop around.
some people get lazy and buy the first thing they find, i used to do that but i got screwed out of alot of money.
don't want to be pushy but i don't want u to go through the same s*** i did.
later
ry
1
16902
Want a REALLY cheap air intake? Try mine, you have to pretty much jerry-rig the brackets and mounting and all. The couplers are just rubber and not silicone but the sound is awesome. Throttle response is much better and it is probably worth a few upper rpm HP. Hey, whadya expect for 50 bones? If you do have the dough, get an AEM or Injen intake from KEN. (brownnose
http://www.cartoka.com/
http://www.cartoka.com/
twilightprotege
Member
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- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
want the cheapest power increase?
weight reduction. ok it's not power increase, but your power to weight ratio gets better which is the same as the car being the same weight and having mo power. diy and it's free
weight reduction. ok it's not power increase, but your power to weight ratio gets better which is the same as the car being the same weight and having mo power. diy and it's free
65racecoupe
Member
- :
- Turbo (soon) Yellow 2002 P5
twilightprotege said:want the cheapest power increase?
weight reduction. ok it's not power increase, but your power to weight ratio gets better which is the same as the car being the same weight and having mo power. diy and it's free
But if your car is a daily driver, don't strip out the interior. That is just lame. If you have a race car, you need no interior other than a driver's seat. It is up to you.
Power to weight ratio is, of course, very important.
For a daily driver, the best way to drop weight is with performance wheels. If you can drop 5 lbs per wheel over the stock weight, that would be great (the 20lbs you drop from the wheels is more important than, say 60 to 80 lbs dropped elsewhere)
That is because rotational mass is more important than the total mass (and for a daily driver, you will keep your interior, duh)
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Get rid of the stock fuel tank and get a fuel cell. An easy 50lbs loss.
1
16902
The only prob with dropping weight on the wheels is that it is not cheap. The stock wheels only weigh about 16lbs. You might be able to go 2-3 lbs lighter but you are looking at forged wheels and probably stock size or smaller they will still cost a bit. Some even as much as $300-400 a wheel. But I agree, if you can save weight on the wheels, I would guess that would be a very nice benefit in acceleration.
twilightprotege said:want the cheapest power increase?
weight reduction. ok it's not power increase, but your power to weight ratio gets better which is the same as the car being the same weight and having mo power. diy and it's free
Or go on a diet and lose 5-10 pounds. not only is it free, but you save money since you are eating less (rockon)
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
another thread like this? omg, i'm gonna shoot myself.
