Changing my rotors out/tools?

dsantana

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2003 Mazda Protege5
What tools are needed to remove the break caliper? I've seen some videos where it takes a 14mm socket others require an allen type of socket. Please help. thanks!
 
You'll need metric sockets (i think the rears are 14mm and I think the fronts are 17mm) and an allen key of some kind (no idea what size) to retract the rear caliper piston. Don't be surprised if you have a lot of problems with the rears. The caliper hinge bolts may be 12mm if I remember right. If you're not messing with removing hoses or anything else, that should be all you need. Make sure you grease the pad clips when you change out the pads or they'll squeal. Also not a bad time to put some quality disc brake grease on the slider pins to keep them from sticking later.
 
Yep, rears are 14mm, and the top slider pin is 10mm. It helps if you break that loose before you fully remove the rear caliper bolts completely as well. If I remember correctly the rear adjuster is a 4mm Allen.
You'll need metric sockets (i think the rears are 14mm and I think the fronts are 17mm) and an allen key of some kind (no idea what size) to retract the rear caliper piston. Don't be surprised if you have a lot of problems with the rears. The caliper hinge bolts may be 12mm if I remember right. If you're not messing with removing hoses or anything else, that should be all you need. Make sure you grease the pad clips when you change out the pads or they'll squeal. Also not a bad time to put some quality disc brake grease on the slider pins to keep them from sticking later.
 
You may also need a 6 or 8 inch C-clamp to drive the caliper piston in a little. There's no strain on the clamp so an $8 cheapie from Harbor Freight will work fine. You always have to push back the piston when replacing pads but you may not need to if you're just doing rotors. If the old rotor is worn a bit thin and the new rotor is thicker you won't be able to just drop the caliper back down because the pads will be too close together to fit over the rotor. If you do need to push in the piston, remember to first clean off the debris around the piston and o-ring and open the master cylinder reservoir cover and then tighten the clamp slowly.
 
You may also need a 6 or 8 inch C-clamp to drive the caliper piston in a little. There's no strain on the clamp so an $8 cheapie from Harbor Freight will work fine. You always have to push back the piston when replacing pads but you may not need to if you're just doing rotors. If the old rotor is worn a bit thin and the new rotor is thicker you won't be able to just drop the caliper back down because the pads will be too close together to fit over the rotor. If you do need to push in the piston, remember to first clean off the debris around the piston and o-ring and open the master cylinder reservoir cover and then tighten the clamp slowly.

Good post. Forgot that if you're doing pads. You can use the old pads as a base to push the piston back in (you shouldn't just push the piston itself with the clamp), or a thin block of wood or metal.
 
Thanks for all the good info. I'll be getting to it this weekend. Then following up with the timing belt water pump.
 
You may also need a 6 or 8 inch C-clamp to drive the caliper piston in a little. There's no strain on the clamp so an $8 cheapie from Harbor Freight will work fine. You always have to push back the piston when replacing pads but you may not need to if you're just doing rotors. If the old rotor is worn a bit thin and the new rotor is thicker you won't be able to just drop the caliper back down because the pads will be too close together to fit over the rotor. If you do need to push in the piston, remember to first clean off the debris around the piston and o-ring and open the master cylinder reservoir cover and then tighten the clamp slowly.
I just use a pair of pump pliers ratcheted out to fit between outside of caliper and face of piston. Works every time. Not as elegant as a C-clamp, but cheaper.
 
The original calipers did use an Allen wrench instead of the 10 mm. You will also need a bfh( big ******* hammer) aka my favorite tool if the rotors are rusted to the hub
 
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