Changed spark plugs 2016 GT

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2016 CX-5 GT AWD
Decided to change the plugs in my 2016 GT at 83000 miles, a bit past the recommended mileage of 75000. I ordered the NGK plugs recommended in another thread. I was surprised to find four very clean plugs coming out. I had expected them be a little more black around the electrode, but they were just brown. Nothing resembling oil on any of them. I checked the gap on the new plugs and they were exactly .044 inches, the gap stated in the literature. With the magnetic 14mm deep socket removal and installation couldn't have been simpler. About a fifteen minute job.
 
Decided to change the plugs in my 2016 GT at 83000 miles, a bit past the recommended mileage of 75000. I ordered the NGK plugs recommended in another thread. I was surprised to find four very clean plugs coming out. I had expected them be a little more black around the electrode, but they were just brown. Nothing resembling oil on any of them. I checked the gap on the new plugs and they were exactly .044 inches, the gap stated in the literature. With the magnetic 14mm deep socket removal and installation couldn't have been simpler. About a fifteen minute job.
It sure is an easy job right?!
 
Easiest of any car I can remember, that's going back to the '70s.
It’s sure would be more difficult on CX-5 than the spark plug replacement on my 1998 Honda CR-V, as I don’t even have to spend some extra time to remove the plastic top engine cover, and those 10 mm bolts holding the ignition coil packs on top of plugs. :whistle:
 
Past....'84 Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo and '96 Mazda Protege LX would have been just slightly easier but I will take the coil on plug any day over cap, rotor and wires
 
I changed my spark plugs at around 75K miles. They also were in great shape. Could have waited another 20K or so.
 
Past....'84 Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo and '96 Mazda Protege LX would have been just slightly easier but I will take the coil on plug any day over cap, rotor and wires
To my surprise, the distributor cap、rotor、and ignition wires on my 1998 Honda CR-V (with electronic ignition), all are still originals with 178K miles. They’re 100% maintenance free for almost 24 years! To me, the setup is more reliable than those coil packs on plug.
 
I've actually never had a coil pack failure. My old '96 Explorer 5.0L had two packs (still on the road-nephew has it now) with wires to 4 cylinders each side and first vehicle with full coil packs was an '02 Maxima. The Mitsubishi though had lots of issues including the distributor.
 
To my surprise, the distributor cap、rotor、and ignition wires on my 1998 Honda CR-V (with electronic ignition), all are still originals with 178K miles. They’re 100% maintenance free for almost 24 years! To me, the setup is more reliable than those coil packs on plug.
On our 2000 CR-V, I replaced cap, rotor and plugs at 215,000. ONLY use the Honda OEM cap and rotor, and NGK wires (you can't get the OEM wires that I could find, and NGK was the mfg anyway).
 
I've actually never had a coil pack failure. My old '96 Explorer 5.0L had two packs with wires to 4 cylinders each side and first vehicle with full coil packs was an '02 Maxima. The Mitsubishi though had lots of issues including the distributor.
Oh, I have, on a Kia.
 
Oh, I have, on a Kia.
Had one coil pack go bad after 18 years on my 2002 Nissan Pathfinder, 330,000 kms. of course it had to be the one coil pack that was a pain to replace, as it was under the throttle body assembly. The other five were accessible.

Now, my neighbour has a Hyundai Sante Fe, about a 2015 I think. He had mega problems with his injectors. Gas leaking all over the engine and out onto the road. Dealer replaced them but forgot to put in new seals. They leaked again. Dealer wanted to charge him another few hours of labour to pull and reinstall the injectors properly. Ah, no.
Every one I know that has a Hyundai or Kia has problems down the road, usually just as the warranty runs out. No thanks to that.
 
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