Discipline
Member
- :
- 3 '07 2.0
Hello and well met fellow gearheads!
I am a long time lurker of this forum but a first time poster and come to you with what has quickly become a living nightmare.
I have a 2.0 Mazda3 '07 that is giving a P0118 CEL code. Normally this would indicate that the CTS has an active high or low voltage issue and would need to be replaced. I have changed the sensor twice on the car and checked the connector to make sure that there is good contact on the pins but this CEL is still present.
The car barely runs now, when I cold-start in a moist environment (everything is stock on the car and it is pampered maintenance-wise) it idles at near 500 RPM until the Radiator Fan comes on and then it bumps up to its normal range and runs like a clock after the fan kicks on. The temperature gauge reads at zero (it doesn't even twitch) throughout a full open loop to a closed loop run at any temperature. I used a laser thermo and I was able to verify that the car is not overheating.
I want to avoid taking it to the dealership to address a possible ECM issue because I know that I will get bent over a chair on maintenance costs as it recently hit 100K and fell out of warranty.
So I yield to your wisdom on the matter, M247. Any and all feedback or spitballing on the issue is welcome.
I am a long time lurker of this forum but a first time poster and come to you with what has quickly become a living nightmare.
I have a 2.0 Mazda3 '07 that is giving a P0118 CEL code. Normally this would indicate that the CTS has an active high or low voltage issue and would need to be replaced. I have changed the sensor twice on the car and checked the connector to make sure that there is good contact on the pins but this CEL is still present.
The car barely runs now, when I cold-start in a moist environment (everything is stock on the car and it is pampered maintenance-wise) it idles at near 500 RPM until the Radiator Fan comes on and then it bumps up to its normal range and runs like a clock after the fan kicks on. The temperature gauge reads at zero (it doesn't even twitch) throughout a full open loop to a closed loop run at any temperature. I used a laser thermo and I was able to verify that the car is not overheating.
I want to avoid taking it to the dealership to address a possible ECM issue because I know that I will get bent over a chair on maintenance costs as it recently hit 100K and fell out of warranty.
So I yield to your wisdom on the matter, M247. Any and all feedback or spitballing on the issue is welcome.
