Car pulls to the left still

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03 Protege 5
Hey guys,

I recently changed all my front suspension and got my car aligned with new Tires. The car is still pulling slightly to the left. What could be wrong? I changed the following things listed below. Am i missing something that causes my car to pull to the left? After the alignment it got a lot better but i still cant let go of the steering wheel or it will go straight for a bit before it starts pulling left. It kind of seems like the momentum of it going straight holds it going straight for a second or so before the front grabs traction and pulls. I'm also going to change the rear stabilizer links tonight to see if that has anything to do with it.

-Struts Front (May 2014)
-Struts Rear (May 2014)
-Stabilizer Link Front (November 2014)
-Tie Rod ends(November 2014)
-Lower Control Arm (November 2014)
-New Tires (December 2014)
-Strut Mounts Front (December 2014)



 
If the alignment is within factory specs the only thing I can think of would be the tires. I know they are new, maybe a tire rotation would help. I had the same problem after I put on new struts and sway bar end links but my tires had already been worn on the inside due to waiting too long to have the alignment corrected. After I got new tires recently it drives straight. Just make sure to not over tighten or undertighen the end links when you replace them.
 
It's all in the alignment, the tech should have test drove the car to make sure it drove straight. The toe needs to be re-adjusted.
 
It's all in the alignment, the tech should have test drove the car to make sure it drove straight. The toe needs to be re-adjusted.

I'm gonna agree and disagree with that.

It's all in the alignment but toe has little to do with it. I had a car where the toe was so far off the tires were squealing but it tracked straight down the road.

I had a GLC that was pulling one way,.. the mechanic removed the strut, rotated it, then re-installed it.

I don't know whether that's caster or camber or what wheel was done but it was fixed.

One or both of your struts need to "lean" more to the right.

casterangle2_zpsfb8a57c0.jpg




casterangle3_zpsab332f78.jpg
 
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After staring at your numbers and the factory specs and doing a lot of guessing,..

I'm thinking if you put your left strut in position A, you will add 0.3 degrees to your camber spec bringing that strut to -0.1 degrees and bring your cross camber to exactly 0.

You could probably do it yourself but changing your strut position may throw off your toe-in, so an alignment may still be necessary.



I'm thinking turn this strut to here,..

(if you do try this, you only need to remove those top four nuts, then push down on the tire till the threads pull through, rotate it then re-install.)

strut_zpse6bbbb33.jpg
 
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That alignment looks pretty decent. I don't think that much can be done there. Caster and toe are the angles that are most likely to cause a pull, but those readings look pretty good.

I would switch the front tires around and see if the pull follows. New tires can be bad too.
 
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His car always pulled to the left then got better after the toe-in adjustment.

The caster and camber numbers stayed the same so the struts were not rotated.



What about moving the right strut to position D to add 0.3 degrees to the caster angle bringing it to 2.2 degrees and the cross caster closer to zero ??


His alignment is all within spec and his pull to the left is very slight. I'm thinking he can tweak it a bit to make it pull straight.

The alignment guys may just say he's being too fussy and not want to fix it if it's within spec ??
 
Another "backwoods trick" is to put a couple more psi in the tires on the left side of your car,...
 
After staring at your numbers and the factory specs and doing a lot of guessing,..

I'm thinking if you put your left strut in position A, you will add 0.3 degrees to your camber spec bringing that strut to -0.1 degrees and bring your cross camber to exactly 0.



You could probably do it yourself but changing your strut position may throw off your toe-in, so an alignment may still be necessary.



I'm thinking turn this strut to here,..

(if you do try this, you only need to remove those top four nuts, then push down on the tire till the threads pull through, rotate it then re-install.)

strut_zpse6bbbb33.jpg

Man you guys are on it. I have no idea about half the stuff you Guys are talking about. If I remove the strut and rotate it do I need a spring compressor, or only if I take the strut mount off of the strut? What is the direction indicator?
 
jack up the car, undo those 4 bolts, push down and rotate (if its not in the right spot). no need to remove anything else or use springs compressors etc. the direction indicator is a paint mark on the strut mount, usually a yellow dot a bit smaller than a penny. if its already in the correct spot, leave it there.

pulling could also be brakes, although you would likely notice a pulsation in the wheel when driving or braking.
 
... correct caster/camber up front and matching toe settings in the rear.

So do you think my suggestion will correct anything ??

His alignment is within spec,... therefore it's already "correct".

(and remember,.. you guys down under drive on the wrong side of the road,... make sure you push him the right way. HaHa)
 
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Our main issue is usually pulling left, there's a difference between in spec and correct, rule out radial pull by swapping front tires over and test drive, can you post an under hood shot of the strut tops?
 
Thanks I got my tires rotated and its pretty much perfect now. I am however going to check the strut mount because I didn't check for a dot when I inatalled them.
 
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