Can't figure this one out!

[mazdarichie]

I am so tired of this car running like crap! I have changed the EGR, IAC, Both o2's, Pcv valve, new spark plugs, wires, air filter and still it runs terrible! It does not run bad until it warms up though. Once it does the car feels like it is running rough. If you turn it off for a few minutes then turn it back on the idle starts jumping all over up and down. And the check engine light still coming on telling me that bank 1 is running lean. I even fixed a small crack in the duct work. I have rwched my end with this car. I sure don't want to have to take it to a shop and let them rip me off. Anybody have any thoughts on this? The exhaust manifold is not cracked either. I have the heat shield off it and it shows no signs of problems.
Richard

 

[tweety2300]

How's the ic piping? You probly have a crack in one if the pipes

 

[M2P503]

I am so tired of this car running like crap! I have changed the EGR, IAC, Both o2's, Pcv valve, new spark plugs, wires, air filter and still it runs terrible! It does not run bad until it warms up though. Once it does the car feels like it is running rough. If you turn it off for a few minutes then turn it back on the idle starts jumping all over up and down. And the check engine light still coming on telling me that bank 1 is running lean. I even fixed a small crack in the duct work. I have rwched my end with this car. I sure don't want to have to take it to a shop and let them rip me off. Anybody have any thoughts on this? The exhaust manifold is not cracked either. I have the heat shield off it and it shows no signs of problems.
Richard

You could have a bad shutter Valve on your intake manifold i would say that's probably what it is because what happens is that Shutter valve gets stuck in the open mode when its supposed to close and that then causes a strain on the engine and the Engine can sputter and act like its running on 3 cylinders when it should be running on 4 cylinders. This is the Great news your Shutter valve is under warranty so take your car to the dealer and they will diagnose it for free and in fact if your shutter valve on the Intake Manifold is broken by law Mazda has to replace it for free or else you can sue them!

 

[pbarton14]

And where would this shutter valve be located?

 

[pbarton14]

Many of us are starting to have this problem so don't give up because if one of us figures out what to replace to fix this issue then we will all be happy. I've replaced many things as well, and im starting to wonder if the ecu just went slightly bad or something

 

[mazdarichie]

Yeah, where is this shutter valve at?

 

[mazdarichie]

I don't have a crack in any pipes. I am running completly stock. Just over 41,000 miles. Car is getting terrible gas mileage too. Looks like this is becoming a real problem for some of us.

 

[M2P503]

-Shutter Valve Location on a P5

And where would this shutter valve be located?

Unfortunately to get to the shutter Valve and replace it you have to take off the Intake Manifold because that's where the Shutter valves are located oh and i would replace the Shutter valve actuator too that's located underneath the Intake manifold. Actually before you do that take it to the Mazda dealership like i said above because if its broken they will literally replace the whole entire intake manifold under warranty for you and save you a huge headache plus they will diagnose it for you for free. Ok here's a picture of the Shutter valves and the shutter valve actuators. I hope that helps to give you guys an Idea of where things go around here.

 

[M2P503]

Yeah, where is this shutter valve at?

Its inside the intake Manifold. Here's a pic.

 

[pbarton14]

Mine are removed and I have the same symptoms so that wouldn't work for me

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

That picture is not of a Protege.. Just wanted to post that up...

 

[bazooka joe]

running rough condition could be 2 or 5 different issues...i'd say vacuum leak...what is the code #

 

[mazdarichie]

P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1) I have also taken off the MAF sensor and cleaned it. Sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and no change in idle at all. It is really running worse now that the weather has warmed up. Been in the 90's the last few days and the car is reacting to it. Check engine light keeps coming on. Same code over and over too. I clear it and it just comes back a little later.

 

[M2P503]

That picture is not of a Protege.. Just wanted to post that up...

I know it's the closest one i could find but it's relatively the same thing the point being the shutter valves are inside the intake manifold just like you see here. Thanks for the update!

 

[mazdarichie]

No more thoughts on this? I guess I will just have to keep trying to figure this out on my own.

 

[Spiced MSP]

exhaust leak or a vacuum leak

 

[mazdarichie]

I'm going to go borrow a vacuum gauge from my dad. What kind of vacuum should it have?

 

[jdwk]

Check your fuel trims with a scan tool. I sounds very much like a vacuum leak. The leak causes the car to pull in unmetered air and run lean. It can only compensate so much (25% duty cycle to be exact) before it will throw a code.

If your LTFT is +25%, you definitely have a leak or a bad primary O2 sensor. The safe money is on a leak.

 

[01CrznMp3]

Intake gasket leaking. Spray some carb cleaner around the back of the head when it is warm and running rough. You will hear the engine rev up and run smooth when the vacuum leak sucks it in. When the motor warms up it can warp/swell gasket enough to either seal or leak more. You notice it a lot on exhaust manifold leaks when its cold you will hear the ticking exhaust leak then when it warms up it seals up and goes away.

 

[mazdarichie]

I doubt o2 sensor. I replaced both. Not many miles on them. If the Intake gasket is leaking what will I have to tear apart to change that? Also, I do have to admit that when the car is warm I hear a rattle in the exhaust towards the front . Seems to be coming from the area of the first cat or whatever that is. I have been under there and can't hear any ticking but I do always seem to look when the car is cool and never at temperature. But the rattle sound is getting much more noticeable. I would love for it to be a crack or break in the exhaust. That's what I build all day is exhaust sytems. Would be easy to take to the shop and weld back up. If the cat went bad could that be causing problems? I realize they are supposed to last longer than 41,400 miles but it is getting old.