bucking

[KYREDP5]

which brings up a good question... what sort of price and installation headaches must be considered when looking at replacing motor mounts?

Front mount is easy as cake. You just have to support the motor on a floor jack and pop it out and pop the new one in.
Rear one is more difficult, the car will have to be on ramps, with the engine supported by a jack. It would be eaiser just to have a mechanic do the rear one, shouldn't take too long if you have them do it while they're doing a oil change or something.

 

[DBR]

this might help, re throttle disk and mazdaspeed engine mount:

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21363&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

 

[MrJoel]

My car just got the new clutch kit and ever since it has run smoothly. The difference is huge. I no longer have to worry about jumpy starts. If you have a pre 2003 MP5 check with your dealer you may be able to get it fixed.
I had issues since I bought it over a year ago with the clutch. and eventually started to just give it more gas and let the clutch out slower and it pretty much stopped, but it also wears out the clutch a lot faster. If you are eligible go to your dealer and get the re-designed clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. You will be very happy with the difference.

 

[MadBiker]

Is this the "juddering" that there's a TSB for? I drive on the Crappanzee (oops typo its Tappanzee) in NY daily and I keep it in 3rd at lowrpm or feather the clutch to keep it from doing the jerky-herky in 1st and 2nd. I just thought it was lack of very lowend torque that was causing this... or is it the mounts? Or sparkco wires with grounding kit will help eliminate or go for aftermarket flywheel and clutch? Kinda confused here...

 

[ottawaP5]

I started a thread on this when i got mine in march. Even the auto magazines say these cars hesitate at low rpms (1000)

It's because these are ULEV motors and run extremely lean. You will notice it bucks a lot less when you first start it and its cold because the mixture is richer. MP3's do not have this problem since their motors run richer.

You have to be real smooth on the gas. If you hesitate on the gas (lift the pedal a bit) it will buck. But if you smoothly apply the pedal it wont buck.

 

[MrJoel]

Mazda calls it juddering and clutch chatter. I don't think either accurately describes the engine feeling like it going to jump through the hood.

 

[p5can]

can someone explain to me what "feathering" the clutch means?

i still don't know..................

 

[StreetPreacher]

Yeah, it bucks in slow traffic. But the upside is that when you're cruising in third gear at about 3-4krpm, you can get a LOT of punch by stomping that pedal.

The protege has GREAT throttle response!

-Sp

 

[StreetPreacher]

Also, i've been trying to decide if it's better to feather the clutch in slow traffic (and wear the clutch), or to drive too slow in a higher gear (stressing the engine). I figure the clutch is cheaper to replace, so...

-Sp

 

[ottawaP5]

"feathering" the clutch means not having it fully depressed. Like driving the car with it half way pressed...not a good idea if you want to keep the car for a long time.

 

[jjac28]

smooth driving

:bs:
the clutch is not an "on" and "off" switch
you have to feather it sometimes for smooth driving.
if you're jerking the car when driving a manual then you're not a good driver...you have to let out the clutch slowly and drive smoothly.
im from europe and thats how people drive there...and we alll drive manuals.

anyway whats the worst that can happen? you replace the clutch after couple of years.

but ive got friends who drive like that,including me and the clutch is fine so i dont really understand when someone tells you not to feather the clutch.
thats what the clutch is designed for!

 

[prote5]

Different Problem?

I'm not sure if the problem I have is the same as the one you all are talking about.... Sometimes (70% of the time actually) when the car is cold and I shift into first start going, no matter how much or how little you ease up off the clutch the whole car shakes and rattles until you start going a little, and it does it going into 2nd also..... im not so sure on how to explain the problem...... it only does it when cold in the mornings on my way to work.... it just jerks a lot.... anyone know anything about this???

 

[Coqui258]

The same thing happens to me...

 

[Mike R]

I've driven ALOT of cars and I can say that the mounts are soo soft. Not even my POS ford 2.3 has mounts THIS bad. I drive a clutch really smoothly and have never had a car buck and jerk like this P5. It really has nothing to do with driving smoothly though, if you are going low speed - ie rush hour bumper to bumper, and let off and get back on the throttle it bucks like crazy. Even my old 89 tercel with 190,000 miles isn't this loose! Guess I'll be getting the new #3 mount.

 

[LinuxRacr]

AWR's mayan!! This stopped when I got my AWR's.

 

[cbcbd]

Guess I'll be getting the new #3 mount.

Do you know someone other than mazda who sells a different #3 mount?

 

[cbcbd]

AWR's mayan!! This stopped when I got my AWR's.

lol, I was reading this and thinking "Who the hell is mayan?"

Mike R, are you sure you mean #3? AWR makes #1 (back) and #2 (front) mounts.

 

[LinuxRacr]

You ever heard Adam Sandler's "The Buffoon?" Mayan=man!!