Broke BC racing coilover's endlink tab

I have a hard time believing it would break off. The tab is pretty beefy. Looks solid to me. Hopefully this doesnt happen to me.

thats what i thought, honestly i was thinking i broke the endlink, imagine my suprize.

i think it's a flaw in the tab. the angled piece is much smaller than the rest of it. still holding with where i drilled it closer to the strut. i was thinkin about doing the other side
 
look at the pics on the first page, i drilled right on that fat straight portion right off the strut. i kept it as far left as possible and still have the nut for my AWR endlinks sit flat without touching the angled portion that broke
 
My guess is that when you drilled it you heated up the metal. you changed the consistency of the metal which caused it to be weaker. Sort of same thing if you were trying to cut springs.. if you did it wrong.

Why did you drill it anyways?

The reason why i ask because it seems like you can still twist your base more to fit the endlink perfectly. And if it doesn't fit im not sure why. The BC endlinks are pretty short themselves also. But they fit fine. *shrug*
 
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My guess is that when you drilled it you heated up the metal. you changed the consistency of the metal which caused it to be weaker. Sort of same thing if you were trying to cut springs.. if you did it wrong.

Why did you drill it anyways?

The reason why i ask because it seems like you can still twist your base more to fit the endlink perfectly. And if it doesn't fit im not sure why. The BC endlinks are pretty short themselves also. But they fit fine. *shrug*

Nah. the tab that holds the endlink broke off. So he drilled a hole next to where it broke off so he can hook his endlink up. The question, why did it break off. It looks pretty thick to me. I just hope i dont have this issue.
 
Yeah, that's alot of pressure to break that tab. maybe the two endlinks were are two different lengths which caused more pressure on the other to make it break. AWR are adjustable. could be possible.
 
i drilled it because the tab broke. i took my time, using a brand new bit designed for steel and a lot of wd40. i was using the stock brand new rear MSP endlinks that came with the MSP swaybar kit when it broke. on the front i had the BC endlinks which kept wiggling loose. i swapped all of them out for the AWR adjustable ones after the tab broke and i fixed it. i haven't had a problem since. seems like this is a better route if you have adjustable endlinks to just go ahead and drill the rear tabs.

a side note, i only drilled the one tabe that broke. so my rear endlinks are physically different lengths but i adjusted them so the bar is neutral. i havn't gotten around to drilling the other one yet cuz it's a pain in the ass.
 
like i said in the first post, my car was packed and i was pulling into a tight entrance with a CRAZY hill. one that if you walked up it, you would have to work to get up there. and of course i was at an angle. get about halfway, a little more and i hear a pop.

i honestly think they can make the tabs MUCH thicker length and width wise. theres no reason not to. you can see how the tabe broke straight down the right edge of the hole, obviously this shows the metal is to thin from the edges of the hole to the edges of the tab. where i drilled the new hole it is much thicker
 
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