There has always been the two theories that one don't gun the car the first 3000 miles or so... and then the other theory is if u train your car to be like that the first 3000 miles it won't perform as well... so basically if you redline ur car and push it in its braking in stages then performance wise it will run better what do you guys think? who is for what theory?
Braking in the motor
- Thread starter NaSh123
- Start date
jersey_emt
Member
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- 04 MSM #1089
I believe in this theory: Don't beat the crap out of the engine until 1000 miles.
evo..eater:)
Member
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
Drive it like you stole it every time you get in it. Don't worry about the break in time.(wink)
SpeedMcheen
Member
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- MSP '03.5
Dude get two, one for fun and one for play.
SWEET!!! This is my favorite topic!!! Ok, so you say thre are two theories.. .actually there may be more than that... it all depends on who you talk to. An engine break-in is a special procedure, requiring time and a bit of effort.NaSh123 said:
If your really curious about getting all the facts, I STRONGLY encourage you to visit Motoman's website. He is a entusiastic motor engineer who specializes on engine break-in's, more specifically motorcycles, but since all four strokes are created the same (sorta), his techniques can be used to break-in a car engine.
He basically states that engine breakin at low RPM's and "taking it easy" is DEFINATELY not the way to breakin an engine. It's based on the fact that the rings around the piston need to be pressured to seat correctly into the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls have VERY small bits of metal that have stayed on the wall after the honing process. These metal bits are very hard and sharp and can rub a groove into the piston ring as the motor breaks-in. If a groove is made, oil will come up through the rings and possibly into the combustion chamber depending on how many rings have been grooved by the cylinder wall.
When you break-in the engine, accelerate hard, bring the RPM's fairly high, close to 1000RPMS away from redline, and shift nicely, not powershift, and then give it full throttle untill 1000rpm from redline, shift nicely again, full throttle to about 1000rpms from redline. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear, and then deccelerating. You can let the engine cool after 15 minutes of this, and then do it again. At 50miles, change your oil, it's loaded with metal deposits left over from the manufacturing process. If left unchanged that stuff can go onto the cam chain which makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to bring metal debris up into the cylinder head.
Don't use synthetic oil until atleast 1500miles. You want an oil with low viscosity for the break-in, not more... Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely.
Here's the difference between a good break-in and a bad one. Bad breakin on left, good break-in on right.
I could go on, but I have to do some work too
Let me know if all want more information, I'd be glad to post more!!!Puckpimp71
Member
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- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
Thanks for taking the time to post that write-up... When I drive my car down from Shreveport I'll keep that in mind. (hear ya)
