Just wondering with any of you owners if you've found it necessary to have the CX9's brakes serviced specifically cleaning of the discs, rotors and pads? Came to my local Mazda dealer for a change oil svc 3wks ago and they recommended this with the changeoil for approx $200 CAD and is recommended for yearly service...my 2017 Signature has only 15K Kms ODO and is only 1.5yrs old but never had this svc done. They said it is part of the preventive maintenance service and is found in their maintenance schedule. So far I don't notice any brake fade or any hissing sound or other issues on the brakes. Is this a good idea/necessary to service at that interval?
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Brakes Servicing - recommended?
- Thread starter tekz
- Start date
Key word there is "THEIR" as in "their maintenance schedule". For the most part I think they just make stuff up in order to sell it. Additionally, they pretty much usually cut the manufacturer specified maintenance schedules in half by recommending things a long time before the actual Mazda factory schedule. I would, and always have, stuck to the factory schedule and ignored all that up-sell nonsense at the dealer. They work on an incentive plan back in service as well and their pitch is not always in your best interest.
Just wondering with any of you owners if you've found it necessary to have the CX9's brakes serviced specifically cleaning of the discs, rotors and pads? Came to my local Mazda dealer for a change oil svc 3wks ago and they recommended this with the changeoil for approx $200 CAD and is recommended for yearly service...my 2017 Signature has only 15K Kms ODO and is only 1.5yrs old but never had this svc done. They said it is part of the preventive maintenance service and is found in their maintenance schedule. So far I don't notice any brake fade or any hissing sound or other issues on the brakes. Is this a good idea/necessary to service at that interval?
The head mechanic at my dealership said under normal driver conditions, I shouldn't have to have any brake work done until 80-90k miles or beyond. He also said he hasn't yet done one brake job on the '16+ CX-9's.
He didn't mention any maintainance.
I figured especially with the mileage I have and considering I just had the brakes inspected last fall during a routine maintenance work that this wasnt necessary. My prev Volvo XC60 had brakes serviced (pads replaced) only once in my 7yrs of ownership. Ill have the brakes inspected on my next tire rotation scheduled if indeed the cleaning is necessary but I highly doubt it will be. Btw the $200 svc that Mazda local dealer was asking for includes the change oil and filter service...but still approx $120-130 for just the cleaning is expensive. Thanks to those who gave their inputs!
SCAM
Find a new repair shop. That C$200 = US$157. RUN!
If you live in an area that uses great amounts of salt on the roads in the winter, and if there are many reports of brake problems in every spring and summer, maybe that service is a good idea as soon as they stop using the salt at the end of winter. I've never heard of that sort of problem, and I doubt they'd actually do any work on the brakes, anyway. Maybe when the tires are rotated they'd spray some solvent on the brake assemblies, wipe it with a rag, and charge you the C$200. RUN!
Find a new repair shop. That C$200 = US$157. RUN!
If you live in an area that uses great amounts of salt on the roads in the winter, and if there are many reports of brake problems in every spring and summer, maybe that service is a good idea as soon as they stop using the salt at the end of winter. I've never heard of that sort of problem, and I doubt they'd actually do any work on the brakes, anyway. Maybe when the tires are rotated they'd spray some solvent on the brake assemblies, wipe it with a rag, and charge you the C$200. RUN!
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Might depend on where you live and what the "cleaning" includes. Where I live they spread salt constantly all winter, and I just replaced my front hubs at 60k miles because the rotors were rusted in place permanently when I tried to remove them for turning.
Having removed the rotors, wire wheeled the hubs and rotors, and applied paint, antisieze, Boeshield, or *something* every year or two would have saved a really weird headache. Ran me about $250 or $300 over budget doing it at home with used hubs ... dunno what it would have cost at the service department.
Having removed the rotors, wire wheeled the hubs and rotors, and applied paint, antisieze, Boeshield, or *something* every year or two would have saved a really weird headache. Ran me about $250 or $300 over budget doing it at home with used hubs ... dunno what it would have cost at the service department.
"Might depend on where you live and what the "cleaning" includes." Exactly.
There are YouTube videos showing how to use jack bolts through the caliper mounts to get the rusted rotors loose. Alternately, one can rent a puller to get them off. If the rotors don't come loose with the jack bolts, put pressure on the rotor then give it a good rap with a heavy hammer. We don't want to pound the rotor off, just just want the rap to break it loose. Cold shocking is also a way. Heat it with a heat gun, but don't melt the bearing grease or do other damage, then dump ice water on the rotor hub. The temperature difference causes movement that can break the rust loose enough to work it off the rest of the way. The rotors will be junk either way.
Several products work great to stop rust. Antisieze works well. Boeshield, LPS #3, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, other products. WD-40 isn't my favorite--it's a water displacer as the name says. Use the smallest possible amount; we don't want any on the braking face of the rotor.
There are YouTube videos showing how to use jack bolts through the caliper mounts to get the rusted rotors loose. Alternately, one can rent a puller to get them off. If the rotors don't come loose with the jack bolts, put pressure on the rotor then give it a good rap with a heavy hammer. We don't want to pound the rotor off, just just want the rap to break it loose. Cold shocking is also a way. Heat it with a heat gun, but don't melt the bearing grease or do other damage, then dump ice water on the rotor hub. The temperature difference causes movement that can break the rust loose enough to work it off the rest of the way. The rotors will be junk either way.
Several products work great to stop rust. Antisieze works well. Boeshield, LPS #3, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, other products. WD-40 isn't my favorite--it's a water displacer as the name says. Use the smallest possible amount; we don't want any on the braking face of the rotor.
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