Bov! Oh Crap!!! Help!

The valve itself I couldn't be happier with. It has amazing build quality. When I held the plastic valve to the piece, I was actually kind of pissed at mazda for releasing such a poor OEM part. I tore it up a bit last night with the valve. I used to peak at 15 and then drop to 11 immediately, which would then dissipate quickly. With the valve, I peak at 16, and it drops to 13-14, which it then holds... and holds... and holds.

I was out on route bumblefuck around here, turned off the dsc, and hit the gas in 2nd on a rolling start. The boost was outrageous, and I have not gone that fast in this car before (I hadn't had DSC off either though). It was like hitting light speed, I was pushed back so hard, the wheel was torquing, sustained boost at 14 psi... crazy. Now my fuel trims are kloogy though, I may need to reset the ECU to train it properly, unless it does better on the way to work.

The thing I want to stress about this valve is its ability to be 100% BPV or 100% VTA. I currently have it set "hard" which I will get into more later as far as the metrics, but it definitely sounds beast. The sound of BOV with the safety of recirc, that's why I was intrigued. Plus DaleNixon made me do it, since he has a forge, and we wanted to compare the two.

So in a way, my sheared bolt was really DaleNixon's fault ;)

Plus I wasn't FORCING the damn thing. It was turning nicely and then SNAP. I think they cut corners with these bolts man, it's like they're aluminum.
 
home depot.

take the good one with you and use it to find your thread pitch and bolt length
 
home depot.

take the good one with you and use it to find your thread pitch and bolt length

This seems pretty OEM though - it has a special end that fits into the threaded opening. I guess I could match it and use one a little shorter? Doesn't anybody sell this specific part though? Would a kind stealership sell one?
 
This has probably all been said before, but I just saw the thread.

Hopefully you can time the repair so you can have access to another car while you're working on yours. If you can get a bolt from the dealer in advance that would be good, otherwise you'll have to take the valve off yours first so you have a bolt to take to the hardware store to match. The store should have one. Last time I was at Home Depot they seemed a little light on metric stuff, but that could just be that store. Here in Phoenix the Ace hardware seems to have more bolts, nuts, and stuff although it's a much smaller store.

You might want to have a pair of small vice grips on hand before you remove the valve. Once the valve is off you should be able to grab the stub with the vice grips and carefully uncrew it. If there's not enough to grab, an easyout is one alternative. That requires that you drill a hole down the middle of the broken bolt, though, which can be tricky.

If you get some good steel replacement bolts be carefull not to over tighten them. I've had bad luck pulling the treads out of aluminum parts like what they screw into.

By the way, I run my Turbosmart on the partial recirulate and it runs real good. I bought it slightly used from one of the members here, damn I'm bad remembering names, and he had it adjusted perfectly. Hopefully it will still work this good after I take it apart and clean a lube it next week.

Good luck!
 
This has probably all been said before, but I just saw the thread.

Hopefully you can time the repair so you can have access to another car while you're working on yours. If you can get a bolt from the dealer in advance that would be good, otherwise you'll have to take the valve off yours first so you have a bolt to take to the hardware store to match. The store should have one. Last time I was at Home Depot they seemed a little light on metric stuff, but that could just be that store. Here in Phoenix the Ace hardware seems to have more bolts, nuts, and stuff although it's a much smaller store.

You might want to have a pair of small vice grips on hand before you remove the valve. Once the valve is off you should be able to grab the stub with the vice grips and carefully uncrew it. If there's not enough to grab, an easyout is one alternative. That requires that you drill a hole down the middle of the broken bolt, though, which can be tricky.

If you get some good steel replacement bolts be carefull not to over tighten them. I've had bad luck pulling the treads out of aluminum parts like what they screw into.

By the way, I run my Turbosmart on the partial recirulate and it runs real good. I bought it slightly used from one of the members here, damn I'm bad remembering names, and he had it adjusted perfectly. Hopefully it will still work this good after I take it apart and clean a lube it next week.

Good luck!

Very encouraging, thank you. I will be doing this first thing Friday night or Saturday morning. Luckily I have wife's car, but was considering removing good bolt in parking lot and bringing it in. It'll get done one way or another. And given how easy it sheared, I'd rather go for 'aftermarket' parts on this one. I will be pretty damn careful during install...
 
Bro sorry to hear things went south. I would've been there to help if I didn't have the flu right now!

This saturday I'll have three parts waiting to be installed that I probably won't even feel up to doing (Racing Beat CBE/Cobb turlet/Cobb shifter weight).

If I were healthy I would've tightened that bolt for you with all the force of an angry baby!
 
SHAZAM!

IMG00358.jpg


Turns out it is indeed a Metric 6 machine thread, coincidentally the exam same thread used to seat an Xbox 360 cooling sink. Coincidence? I think not.

Anyway, a 20mm M6 bolt and flat washer did the job nicely. I don't know what the issue is, but the threads to the rear of the engine were VERY fussy. They're clearly cross-threaded, not sure if I did it or it was like that, but the point is moot as the 20mm hold tight but don't go as deep. Way tighter than the stock ones in fact.

I hold steady boost at 16 psi now. boo..... ya.
 
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Thanks for passing along the bolt size. I think I'll grab a couple before I take mine off to ceean it and I'll replace them while I'm at it.
 
How difficult is it to get the car up to 16PSI and stay there for you now? I suspect a boost leak in mine that I'm hoping the Cobb turbo inlet FedEx just dropped off will help alleviate.

Damn being sick. I want to do this install but I still feel pretty awful.
 
I used one of those when I stripped out the auto-gyro on my 1913 stutz bearcat. I used to get 40 rods to the hogshead in that fancy contraption when I was a courtin' the lasses.

hahahahahah!!! old things are funny
 
It builds boost easy now, so easy its deceptive. I touch the pedals and I do 50. I logged a 5.4 0-60 with it on, at close to WOT, and I think short shifter will improve that even.. Basically, I hit 16 PSI in second gear as soon as I go close to WOT. And it isn't gradual either, its -20 to +16 as soon as you press. The spooling sound is a real screamer. Now it don't do dat in 3rd and 4th quite as responsively, but it still builds fast. You'll see when you feel better, ill let you get her to scream. This is with DSC off as well, which I think reduces the torque nanny.
 
Does Mazda's powertrain warranty cover Red Ring of Death?

No, but if you install a 360 mobo under the passenger seat and hook up to a touchscreen, Microsoft will cover the factory headunit and sound system...
 
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