As of a few minutes ago I have performed a careful inspection of all my boost pipes and vacuum lines and as this point have seen no cuts, damage, or anything to indicate a leak in the vacuum lines or boost pipes. All clamps are snug and the connections do not appear to be leaking. Furthermore as I am having issues in and out of boost pipe expansion does not seem to the primary issue either. Considering how small a hole in the intake system would have to be for me to not be able to find it at this point it seems unlikely it could pull in enough unmetered air to cause issues at idle.
It has yet to throw any new CEL's. The problem does seem to manifest when the car is warm after driving for more than 15 minutes. My drive to and from work the car starts out cold and has time to cool off. But today as I was running errands the car did not have time to cool off and it was then it started to have issues. One thing it was doing which it had not done before was that it would start to shudder/buck which would get worse the longer I held the throttle in the same spot. Any new ideas or sensors I might need to pull and check with a ohm meter would be appreciated.
In response to the above post:
I am not new to the world of cars and how they operate. I have done partial rebuilds, engine swaps (including a i4 2.0 to v6 2.5) as well as performing 100% of my engine work and maint for the last 10 years from oil changes to replacing gears in a transmission as well as helping out many of my old car club members. I do have limited turbo experience, but I was not blindly throwing parts. The CPU had thrown no CEL and inspection had shown no identifiable culprit. In the past and from searching here on the forums, coils have shown to have intermittent failures, and as these coils were getting quite old replacing them was a good choice. Plugs are dirt cheap and as I use the copper plugs they are supposed to be changed out rather often anyways, wires were because they are again, quite old and were starting to come apart. I have since thrown only a bank 1 too rich code.
bwalt, unless you have something more helpful to post, I would ask you avoid posting in this thread anymore. To me you are coming across as a know-it-all who really is unable to provide anything to actually help get MY car working again. When I come check this post after carefully inspecting my car hoping someone else has a new tip and get a response which comes across as "You obviously don't know what you are doing." It is exceptionally irritating. If you do have something specific (which you did early on mentioning a possible boost leak) such as a particular sensor or issue you have had in the past I welcome that. But if you intend to continue posting condescending vague general tips and telling me I am doing it wrong, then please simply do not post, I am already frustrated enough with the car.
It has yet to throw any new CEL's. The problem does seem to manifest when the car is warm after driving for more than 15 minutes. My drive to and from work the car starts out cold and has time to cool off. But today as I was running errands the car did not have time to cool off and it was then it started to have issues. One thing it was doing which it had not done before was that it would start to shudder/buck which would get worse the longer I held the throttle in the same spot. Any new ideas or sensors I might need to pull and check with a ohm meter would be appreciated.
In response to the above post:
I am not new to the world of cars and how they operate. I have done partial rebuilds, engine swaps (including a i4 2.0 to v6 2.5) as well as performing 100% of my engine work and maint for the last 10 years from oil changes to replacing gears in a transmission as well as helping out many of my old car club members. I do have limited turbo experience, but I was not blindly throwing parts. The CPU had thrown no CEL and inspection had shown no identifiable culprit. In the past and from searching here on the forums, coils have shown to have intermittent failures, and as these coils were getting quite old replacing them was a good choice. Plugs are dirt cheap and as I use the copper plugs they are supposed to be changed out rather often anyways, wires were because they are again, quite old and were starting to come apart. I have since thrown only a bank 1 too rich code.
bwalt, unless you have something more helpful to post, I would ask you avoid posting in this thread anymore. To me you are coming across as a know-it-all who really is unable to provide anything to actually help get MY car working again. When I come check this post after carefully inspecting my car hoping someone else has a new tip and get a response which comes across as "You obviously don't know what you are doing." It is exceptionally irritating. If you do have something specific (which you did early on mentioning a possible boost leak) such as a particular sensor or issue you have had in the past I welcome that. But if you intend to continue posting condescending vague general tips and telling me I am doing it wrong, then please simply do not post, I am already frustrated enough with the car.
