1. fmic ain't stock. but it's a fantastic addition, and you're piping looks good.
2. Rush ain't mistaken -- you have a narrowband a/f gauge, and they are worthless. I unfortunately have one as well. It should swing back and forth pretty regularly during normal driving and idle. If you're decelerating in gear it should stick lean, and if you're in boost it had better say rich. That's about all it's good for. To really know you're afr you'll need a wideband gauge like the AEM eugo or something similar for ~$300.
3. the bogging is the stock computer not being able to compensate for your mods, and dumping a lot of fuel into the combustion chamber. This causes a rich condition and slows the car. To get rid of that you'll need EMS -- afc, unichip, MPI, haltech, microtech, e-manage... pick one. search around for tips and how-to's.
I addition, a little known fact about these cars about the vics/vtcs "switch-over": Our intake mani has little butterfly valves in the runners for emissions purposes. normally one is open, and the other closed. However, when you go WOT up to at least 4200 RPMS, an alternate map is triggered in the ecu, and it will open those valves so you can get more airflow and get a more normal acceleration/afr. So if you want to "go fast", start in 1st and punch it fairly hard at least past 4200, and you should be good to go in all the other gears from then on. otherwise the bogging will be rediculously bad.
You could also be hitting complete fuel cut depending on your boost level and how bad the cpu is -- especially now that it's getting cold out, that makes it worse.
Welcome to the little msp annoyances... get EMS. you'll never regret it. best thing i ever did.
