Blue Engine Coolant Light

In most cars and trucks, the radiator has a built in transmission cooler that has separate lines running from the transmission to cool it off. The CX-5 just has a different/smarter system as you mentioned to warm up the ATF.

Yes, because I don't know of any other vehicle that actively warms up the ATF when it's cold.


As for operating temperatures, I do agree that the temperature of the metal plays a very important role, but I believe the oil does as well in order to properly lubricate/protect the components.

If the metal is warm enough for the engine to be considered ready to roost, the oil will already be plenty warm. So no worries about the oil being too cold.
 
Yes, because I don't know of any other vehicle that actively warms up the ATF when it's cold.




If the metal is warm enough for the engine to be considered ready to roost, the oil will already be plenty warm. So no worries about the oil being too cold.


Maybe I am just old school, but I like to make sure everything is warmed up before I go and drive it like I stole it.
 
Maybe I am just old school, but I like to make sure everything is warmed up before I go and drive it like I stole it.

I'm not disagreeing - I'm just saying if everything else is warmed up, so will the oil be warmed up. It's not necessary to actually monitor the oil temperature if you know the coolant is 180F because there is no way the coolant can get there without the oil also being hot.
 
I'm not disagreeing - I'm just saying if everything else is warmed up, so will the oil be warmed up. It's not necessary to actually monitor the oil temperature if you know the coolant is 180F because there is no way the coolant can get there without the oil also being hot.

Coolant temp can definitely get more hot before the oil does just because the amount of oil that sits in the pan and doesn't come into contact with the the majority of the motor in comparison to the coolant.

But, it doesn't take long for the oil temp to come up, so I agree on that.
 
Coolant temp can definitely get more hot before the oil does just because the amount of oil that sits in the pan and doesn't come into contact with the the majority of the motor in comparison to the coolant.

But, it doesn't take long for the oil temp to come up, so I agree on that.

No oil sits in the pan. It is circulated through the engine including as Mike said spraying the bottom of the HOT pistons.
 
When it is below freezing, esp in the teens, I will drive for a good 7-10 minutes before the blue coolant light goes out. And I drive it easy in this warm-up stage. I have yet to witness the blue light turn off while my car is simply idling to melt ice or snow. But I haven't owned it yet in temps higher than 40 degrees :) Great to hear all the in depth information about how the SkyActiv technology works - it's an automotive work of art. Appreciate the sharing of knowledge~
 
The light in mine does go away on idle sometimes, but usually if it has been idling for 15-20 minutes.
 
Years ago, I drove my hot rodded Mustang Cobra to have it run on a dyno. The ambient temps were in the 80sF and I drove it 20 minutes in stop and go traffic after the coolant gauge read normal, with the A/C on. When we got it on the dyno, the coolant temp was 180F and the oil temp was 165F. It is not a good assumption that the oil temp tracks the water temp closely.

I always give my cars another 5-ish miles at road speed after the coolant is at normal temp to let the engine, trans and diff oils to warm up before running it hard.
 
Torque is a great app for tracking the inner working of your car while driving. I have used it for my previous 2 vehicles, came in handy for the annoying check engine light that would occur occasionally due to my CAI on the Xterra. Occasionally there can be issues with the phone or tablet connecting to the OBD-II port. (Crap!! I just realized I forgot to take that reader out of the truck when I sold it a few weeks ago!!)
 

Yeah, I've seen that before. I'm calling B.S.!

That is the precise and duplicate argument, for why we were not supposed to idle warm our engines when they were carburetted. EFI was, back then, supposed to end all that cylinder washing because it only injected just the correct amount of fuel to keep the engine running.

Step forward a generation to GDI engines where the fuel is sprayed into the combustion chamber at very high pressure making a very fine mist. With combustion temps around 2200F, even a couple of seconds will have the combustion chamber surface temps above the 95 - 100F evaporation point of gasoline, thus cylinder washing does not occur.

Yes, your engine will warm-up faster while driving it.

Do you want to drive it before the pistons reach their normal 400 - 500F temp when they are finally round and no longer oval? Do you want to drive it before the crankshaft bearings are warm enough to have normal clearances? Remember aluminum blocks expand and contract much more than steel crankshafts/camshafts. I don't.

Be kind to your engine. Make it last longer by warming it a little and babying it until fully warm. My blue light goes off at 132F, no where near fully warm, which is 185F in my CX--5.
 
I go with what Mazda engineers say in owner's manual. There's absolutely NO harm to immediately start driving but drive lightly till the blue light disappears. Only thing I believe was stated was to wait about 30 seconds when the car's brand new.
 
I go with what Mazda engineers say in owner's manual. There's absolutely NO harm to immediately start driving but drive lightly till the blue light disappears.

Spot on! Did you see the credentials of the guy in the article?

I just love amateur engineers who think they have a better grasp of the issues involved than the professionals at the top of their field in internal combustion engine design/operation.(screwy)

That's why I always give advice to NASA rocket engineers about the best way to run their launchpad operations (I was into model rockets when I was younger). Plus, I always wanted to be a "rocket scientist". (naughty)
 
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