Best Replacement Sub - PnP

mspdfreak said:
It runs at 4ohms. Simply take out the old one, put in the new one. I *believe* you have to switch the amp over to 4 ohms...but I can't remember. And as posted above, you will not be able to use the stock grille. Oh, and be aware that the dumbasses at the factory used loctite on the screws, so you may have to drill most or all of them out. BUT, you will be pleased with the improvement. My rearview mirror shakes like a mother now.

I didn't switch it to 4 ohms? i dont remember seeing any switches on the amp. Can anyone clarify this?
 
yea you dont need to. It just runs more power to the sub, and thus sounds better. Stock is 8ohm. No changes needed. just plug in the two wires and go.
 
Cool...we'll I checked Best Buy and Circuit City and Ultimate Electronics last night, none of them have JL. I guess I'll have to find a specialty store for car audio.
 
Everyone is talking about the Jl and RF speaker.. I happened to be walking through a local audio shop and found an audiobahn 8" sub. What do you audio guys think about the specs on this (since I'm not a audiophile I have no Idea what these specs mean). I've seen them on the internet for as low as $35 which I don't think is a good sign.

AW831T or AW831SE(this is supposed to be a special edition of the other)
8 NATURAL SOUND WOOFER
30 oz. Strontium Magnet
Power Handling: 200 watts RMS
Frequency Response: 30Hz - 1kHz
Efficiency: 90.3 dB
PHAT Foam Surround
Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone
KM3 Coated for Virtually No Cone Distortion
1.5 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil
Dual 4 Ohm
2 or 8Ohm Operation
Mounting Dimensions: Depth; 3 7/16
Hole; 7 Diameter; 8 3/8
MULT-CONNECT Lug Lock Terminals
 
Hmm...I don't think the stock amp will drive it at 2ohms, and at 8ohms, you'd still only getting the power of the stock sub. Plus, you may have fitment issues in the stock box. Plus, the JL is a proven winner.
 
don't bother with a dual 4 ohm or 2 ohm sub. The only reason that i would get any "dual" ohm sub is to have flexibility with the install if you have 2 or more subs...

Stick with the single voice coil and go with 4 ohm.

I'll give you an example why a dual voice coil (DVC) sub would be beneficial. We'll use a dual 4 ohm sub rated at 400rms. This sub, depending on how it's wired, can run at 8ohm or 2 ohm. Lets say you have a kenwood amp thats rated at 400rms @ 4ohm briged.

Using this sub, if you wire it at 2 ohm, you will be drawing way too much current from the amp, because it is not rated at 2 ohms possibly causing overheating/melting of the internal components. If you wire it up using the 8ohm configuration, you're not getting the full potential of the amp possibly only 100rms.

The only way you can use the full potential of this amp would be to get a single voice coil sub rated at 400rms. There are many alternatives, but this example would apply to the question above.

"it's really tough to explain the logic behind it"
 
My sub

RF1.jpg
RF2.jpg
1 pic looks bad but the other looks good oh well it hits pretty hard though :)
 
A friend of mine from work is going to sell me 2 JL 8W1's. I'm trying to get them for $120 (of course I only need one so if he sells them to me I'll be willing to sell the other for $60 plus shipping. I'll find out tomorrow and post what he says.
 
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