Best MSP sub upgrade?

turning the speakers off will have no effect on the sub as they have completely different power sources
 
Your right the amp is powering the sub and the headunit is powering the speaker....but where is the audio source coming from :P When you turn the bass up on the SystemQ the sub reacts as do the speakers.
 
To get a clean sound from the sub all you have to do is turn the low frequency bandpass all the way down. Stock settings have it passing almost everything into the midrange. I was exactly like you when I first got the car, and then I actually looked at the settings and was like "damn, now I know why so many people say this sub sounds bad" Trust me, if you havent done this yet, try it. You may save yourself a hundred bucks
 
hey what do you mean turn the LPF down??? you mean through or to the other end???

and if i remember correctly there is a front and rear LPF adjustments?? do both or just the rear???
 
my sub sounds good and people swear its a 12inch... and i have to literally show people its an 8inch sub. I just played with the settings one day at work and got it sounding good. I am very pleased with teh sound and dont want to upgrade at all... IF anything new frotn speakers in 5.25 with components....take care and have a nice DAY
 
on point said:
my sub sounds good and people swear its a 12inch... and i have to literally show people its an 8inch sub. I just played with the settings one day at work and got it sounding good. I am very pleased with teh sound and dont want to upgrade at all... IF anything new frotn speakers in 5.25 with components....take care and have a nice DAY


Although some days my sub sounds like crap but then other days it sounds really really good, its really hard. I think I should upgrade the connectors on the sub they might be coming loose at times, but i doubt it.

One thing that I usually do is keep my rear seats folded down....then the sub feels like it hits twice as hard.
 
I went to Sound Advice, explained to them what I wanted and $200 later I've got a 8 in JL that sounds waaaay better than stock, lasts longer than 5 hours (literally how long the stock sub lasted) and is guaranteed for at least a year (my salesman said that I can take my car back after a year and see if I qualify for another year's warranty and I could keep doing that until I sell the car. I would recommend this if you want to keep the trunk space. Otherwise, spend $75 more for a 12 JL 12 w0 (or whatever) and box. Get more thump and lower bass... the stock amp is relatively capable, but I'd suggest moving it to under the driver's seat. Upside down mounting in the trunk doesn't give in air-conditioning and hot air rises, so it won't cool well and it may over heat and hurt sound or blow many, many fuses.... Anyways, this is mainly just speculation.... I know jack squat about audio....
 
Agreed on the JL tip. I had a 10w6 in my honda civic, and it sounded GREAT. Even bouncing around in the back of my hatch it was tight and clean. After it was *stolen* I replaced it with a Punch sub that licks donkey nuts in comparison. And that was with the shittiest 100w Jensen amp I've ever seen! (free from a friend, I think it was meant to drive regular speakers!)
 
yup... 211 after taxes, labor and miscellaneous wiring or whatever, to be exact. I was lazy and got it installed by their guy since I had the money, but no time. I'm sure you can find a better price, easily. I was just paying for time and convenience.
 
well... i'm going to rip out that whole inclosure and put it two twleve inch solo baric kickers L7 by next week. I cant stand the factory s***. I also found out that there are no speakers in the rear deck. I'ts just a front. there's nothing there. just a grille so peepz can assume there's a speakers there. i'm going to use the stock amp to run all the highs and mids. its going to sound tight after that. i'll keep you guys posted. peace.
 
d_lo said:
well... i'm going to rip out that whole inclosure and put it two twleve inch solo baric kickers L7 by next week. I cant stand the factory s***. I also found out that there are no speakers in the rear deck. I'ts just a front. there's nothing there. just a grille so peepz can assume there's a speakers there. i'm going to use the stock amp to run all the highs and mids. its going to sound tight after that. i'll keep you guys posted. peace.
just about everyone knows there arent any speakers back there... its not neccessary neways, they got a set in the rear doors to make up for it. oh and the stock amp is worthless for the speakers since its a 2 chan amp while youve got 4 speakers @ 4 ohms each... unless you decide to wire them up 2 speakers to each chan either into a 8 or 2 ohm load. then again you can power just the fronts from the amp and leave the rears going from the deck
 
$200 = way too much. I paid $105 out the door for mine at 6th ave electronics. JL w3v2 4ohm version while it went for at least $140 online. Its easy to take the stock enclosure out and just swap the speaker. All the wires are there for you...I installed it myself had it in for about two days then decided I wanted a single '12 setup with a good amp. I purchased the MOMO mm12 and carbon series 300.2 amp from polk/momo. Sounds amazing and it really hits. But for an 8 inch sub the jl really impressed me. Anyone looking to go this route should really check em out. And if anyone wants me to goto my local 6th and pick up the speaker I'd be more than happy to then ship it out for you. :)
 
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DZnutz said:
just about everyone knows there arent any speakers back there... its not neccessary neways, they got a set in the rear doors to make up for it. oh and the stock amp is worthless for the speakers since its a 2 chan amp while youve got 4 speakers @ 4 ohms each... unless you decide to wire them up 2 speakers to each chan either into a 8 or 2 ohm load. then again you can power just the fronts from the amp and leave the rears going from the deck
DO WHAT? OMG!!!!

I haven't had my MSP that long, and haven't torn into the stereo yet. You have to be kidding me! If that's true, then what size speakers are there in the rear doors?

The 6x9's could lend a lot of support to the lower mid-bass and upper sub-bass, if I use the right ones. If there are speakers in the rear doors, that complicates things. I would need 6 channels of amplification for the mids/highs (for the ability to adjust the rear door speakers and rear deck speakers separately) and then my sub amp... Wait...the old Kenwood amp might be good for something after all. I already have a 4-channel and sub amp in the other car, and a spare set of killer Pioneer 6x9's...sorry, thinking out loud. Man, I'm gonna need 2 gauge power and ground wires and another 1 farad cap. Ouch.
 
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Albert said:
Ok, dumb question time - which JL W3v2 do you get to use with the stock sub: D2, D4, or D6 (Dual 2 ohm, dual 4 ohm, and dual 6 ohm, respectively)?
This all depends on what type of amp you want to run, whether or not you go with a dual voice coil sub, and how you're going to wire the voice coils. I won't get into all of it now. It's late and I'm headed to bed. Feel free to PM me if you need more technical info. I'm an audio gearhead from way back and I'll be glad to help.
 
MrDiggler said:
DO WHAT? OMG!!!!

I haven't had my MSP that long, and haven't torn into the stereo yet. You have to be kidding me! If that's true, then what size speakers are there in the rear doors?

The 6x9's could lend a lot of support to the lower mid-bass and upper sub-bass, if I use the right ones. If there are speakers in the rear doors, that complicates things. I would need 6 channels of amplification for the mids/highs (for the ability to adjust the rear door speakers and rear deck speakers separately) and then my sub amp... Wait...the old Kenwood amp might be good for something after all. I already have a 4-channel and sub amp in the other car, and a spare set of killer Pioneer 6x9's...sorry, thinking out loud. Man, I'm gonna need 2 gauge power and ground wires and another 1 farad cap. Ouch.
das right... there are 5"x7"s in the front doors and 6"s in the rear doors
 
DZnutz said:
das right... there are 5"x7"s in the front doors and 6"s in the rear doors
Thanks. This works out perfectly. My Escort GT (previous daily driver) has new 6's in the front doors and 5x7's in the rear. I can swap the Krapwoods for the ones in the EGT, throw in my spare 6x9's and I'll be good to go! YEE HA! Lucky me.

Of course, swapping the speakers, installing a new deck sub, installing a replacement head unit (for the stolen one) along with a 4-channel amp, 2-channel amp and my sub amp, as well as all the required wiring will take me a week, but at least I don't have to buy any speakers! I needed a break, lol. This system is going to sound soooo sweet.

Since we have rear door speakers, I'm seriously considering either clipping the mids/tweets on the 6x9's or I might wire a resistor to them to dampen the upper end,and just use them to fatten up the bass. No need to make the rear passenger's ears bleed. You can get a surprising amount of bass out of 6x9's if they have good low-end response, they're enclosed and you throw a bunch of power at them. Just don't ask them to play below 40 Hz.

Geez, what I'm saving on speakers is going to be gobbled up by a seriously complex active crossover. I was hoping to avoid that, but the end result will be worth it.
 
if your gonna be impressed with your setup then youll definately appreciate mine... 12" brahma, 2 pairs of PG elite6's, pair of TI 500.4, TI 1000.2, 2 TI caps and a crapload of wiring
 
FYI... If you stick with the stock enclosure, you will not be able to install speakers in the rear deck. There isn't enough space for the speaker magnet behind the stock sub enclosure, that's why they are in the rear doors.

Just an FYI.
 
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