BC Coilover Setup: Compression/Rebound Settings, Ride Height Adjustment, Camber, Etc.

[Ryosuke]

Hi guys,

I'm from Singapore and I'm driving a Mazda3 using BC coilovers. Nice to meet you guys!

Been reading and following the BC postings as I have also just installed BC coilovers.

The difference is that my BC is the V1 model (Red) and does not come with the pillow mounts.

My settings are front 9 and rear 6 but mine is the sedan model 1.6. I'm using 215/45/R17 17x 7.5 rims. I'm trying to establish a good ride height. So far what I'm using is the front 590mm and rear 600mm measured from the fender gap to the bottom of the rim.

Can I ask if the original stock setting, which fender gap is bigger? Rear or front? Or is it both the same fender gap? If I'm not wrong, I think the front is 4 fingers while the rear is 4.5 fingers right?

 

[ericrapp]

I see no one has responded and i feel bad. All i know is the Cobb springs dropped the front more than the rear giving it a raked look which i like alot. I have Ksport coilovers with pillowball but have a structural issue with the camber adjustment in front on the Mazdaspeed 3. Sorry it is all i have.

 

[RichB]

I have a stock suspension and I have a 2 finger gap in the back and a 3 finger gap in the front.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ryosuke]

I have a stock suspension and I have a 2 finger gap in the back and a 3 finger gap in the front.

Hope this helps.

Thanks RichB.

From what I have seen in Singapore, stock suspension is 4 fingers front and rear with the front abit higher.

I have lowered my 3 to 3 fingers front and rear, measuring from the top of the fender gap to the bottom of the rim, 600mm rear, 590mm front.

Over here, due to our road conditions and our carparks are either multi stories or basement, I can't go any lower without scrapping the undercarriage or bumpers.

 

[808MP5]

BUMP from the dead

there's way too much confusion in this thread lol... i guess simple english instructions that came with the coilovers on adjusting the coilover height wasn't good enough...

any one still have the instructions that came with the coilovers... please scan and post if that's ok? if not you can pm me and i'll host it... you would think you could find the instructions on BC's website... fancy website but no where to download instructions for the ppl that forgot where the put theirs

i see ppl measuring their drop with their fingers... uh no deals... you will be able to fit more fingers under there with more negative camber... i think the proper way to measure height is by measuring the height where the bumper meets the fender or quarter panel for the rear to the Ground with a yard stick preferably... cuz it will be the same on both side if you are on a level surface and your car hasn't had any major accidents

also read ppl adjusting the spring perch... if there is one thing i remember when reading the install instructions was DO NOT ADJUST THE SPRINGS... this will change the rate unless that is what your going for but then how will the average joe measure the new rate

 

[ericrapp]

If the BCs are the same as my Ksport you are absolutely correct about height adjustment. It is NOT done at the spring. It is done at the sleeve. We should just snug the spring tight plus half to full turn and be done with it in front. The rears need to also be matched using the threaded sleeve to the height set at the spring lower keeps. I am sorry i do not have my installation manual as that is the best place to reference. ground to fender is probably the most consistent way to measure the difference but the Real way to set up is corner weight the car.... the Dead live on!

 

[STRICK-]

The instructions that came with my BCs were written in the worst broken english ever. The installationis simple w/ a simple knowledge of suspension.

Yes- the ride height in the front are controlled by the sleeved body of the bottom of the mcphearson style setup up there. The rears ride height is controlled by adjusting a "spring perch" that supports the base of where the spring sits. For height purposes. Since the strut sits outside of the spring back there. There is also an adjustment for the length of your strut in the rear too.

 

[ericrapp]

How hard were the fronts to put in? And did you make many height adjustments? How hard was that to do. the rear seem pretty easy to install and adjust. I have the Cobb springs in now which advertises a 1" lowering and after a long time settling i would say thats about right. I am going for for 3/4" more in front and 1/2" in rear as a starting point, Thanks Strick

 

[m.o.b.s.]

The front install is easy enough...

wheel off
endlinks off
ABS clip
3 bolts at the top
1 bolt on bottom
strut out

It's been a while, but I think I did the 5mm preload. with 4-5 threads between the bottom and middle ring I have <1-finger gap.

Front camber - I moved the allen screws one position farther out and slid the strut all the way out and I think it's about 1 degree negative.

Height adjustment - I can jack up the front and there's enough room (for me) to squeeze my arms in there with the two wrenches to make adjustments.

BTW, I have regular 3 with stock 17s

 

[ericrapp]

You sure make it sound easy. Thanks for the help!
Quick question did you set the negative camber in before the install? I am concerned that the speed 3 does not have much room to slide the shock tower (Topside) on the camber plate. the hole in our fender wher it poke through is small and definitely not enough to allow full negative camber! that sucks i think

 

[m.o.b.s.]

Ha...forgot about that part.

...and I was going for as close to zero as possible (struts slid AWAY from the engine)

I ground out the hole with a RotoZip and carbide bit...enough to gain access to the adjusting screws and to allow for the knob to slide away from the engine. When I was done, I found that I really just needed to remove about 1/4-1/2 inch on the outer part of the hole to get the camber in line with the drop I was going for. 1/2 inch is probably a bit much. You can set it up for as close to zero as possible ahead of time if you're going for a 1 to 1 1/2 finger gap. Grind a bit, then hold the strut up in there (simulating the strut moving left and right as best you can) to see how much more to remove. People use hole saws to widen the entire hole, but I had a RotoZip and was determined to use it. It took a while, but worked.

Hope this was clear enough

 

[ericrapp]

Hey thanks,
i am going the other way. I want more negative camber in the front. The should be fine as it is working very well now. I will add the Mazdaspeed rear camber arms with the coilers that should put me just about perfect. The front will be interesting. I have been thinking on this for quite awhile and asked some young engeineers at work to help me strengthen that area if i need to remove much material! I have some very stiff spring rates up front and worry about distorting. But i will probably just go at it as you mentioned and it may not be pretty. i guess i will just have to jump in there and see what it looks like. I appreciate the helpful comments

 

[Mr_Boom]

Increase the rear ride height?

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I've been reading through and haven't come to a clear conclusion on the best way to increase the rear ride height.

I'm running the BC coilovers with 8x18 Enkei T-Fork wheels on 225/40R18 Michelin PE2 tires. Rear fenders have been rolled. When I originally installed the coilovers I left the settings "as is" out of the box and ended up with around 7/8" drop on all 4 corners. This installation was done with mostly worn out 225/40R18 BFG Supersport A/S tires, and between the difference in lower tread depth and a more square sidewall the newer Michelin tires just barely rub when the back of the car is loaded.

So basically I am trying to figure out the best way to slightly raise the rear of the car. Should I raise the ride height of only the spring, only the shock, or both? Any help is appreciated.

 

[Mr_Boom]

Increase the rear ride height ???

double post

 

[ericrapp]

In the back it is tricky i think. They need to be matched when originally installed. But if they were then just adjust them equal turns. If it is less than a quarter inch it may not make much difference, but in theory but you want to stay in the shock's valving sweet spot.
Now take this advice with caution. I still have not mounted mine and as it is going it might not get done. again. this year. What offset are your wheels? for curiosity sake?

 

[Mr_Boom]

In the back it is tricky i think. They need to be matched when originally installed. But if they were then just adjust them equal turns. If it is less than a quarter inch it may not make much difference, but in theory but you want to stay in the shock's valving sweet spot.
Now take this advice with caution. I still have not mounted mine and as it is going it might not get done. again. this year. What offset are your wheels? for curiosity sake?

Wheels are 8x18 Enkei T-Fork's with a +38 offset. I slightly bumped up the shock height and added some spring compression to the rear this evening, seems to have fixed that little bit of rubbing.

 

[ericrapp]

Glad to hear that. How much do you think you raised her?

 

[meicalnissyen]

1) I run mine as close as possible to stock since I want pretty even camber wear.
2) 9 front/10 rear but recommended from SU and others are 12 front/15 rear
3) Fronts are easy just like any other setup but the rear, you'll have to unbolt the bottom of the shock, lower control arm and rear sway bar endlink and finally access the perch/spring.
4) ?

adjusting rear damping can be done from the hatch, reaching into the access holes

 

[Mr_Boom]

Glad to hear that. How much do you think you raised her?

The whole back ended up around 1/4" higher than before. Original drop from the BC to Stock suspension was 7/8".

 

[ericrapp]

I am thinking the offset on mine is 45. But i cant recall now. My intention was to buy 235/40 and go coil overs right away. I went with an 8.5 inch wheel and asked the vendor for the correct offset for my car.
I bought 225s because i chickened out. And still only have the Cobb springs installed.
It turned out the 225s have plenty of grip and am going to stay that size. so when we install the coil overs i hope i can avoid the rubbing in the rear