Battery light on

Turbojuice

Member
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2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Ok so I am fearing the worst, but I wanna hear it from other people before I decide anything... Today my CEL came on again accompanied by my battery light. My CEL could be something different (I think it is my Ebay dual cat midpipe that sucks balls (had to get it for smog (CA sucks))). After the lights came on, I popped the hood and checked my alternator belt and it seems to be in fine shape, and everything is spinning right when the car is on. Does this mean my alternator is toast? What else is there for me to check before I come to this conclusion?

Goddamn all of these dumb problems this car has! When it works it works great, but too bad that is 10 days out of the year...
 
Yep, typically the battery light turning on means your alternator is on its last legs :/. looks like a b**** to change on our cars, too..
 
Damn that is NOT what I wanted to hear lol. I am gonna look around for one and see what sort of price range I am looking at.
 
could always just change the battery to see what that does, maybe its just very low voltage.. the battery light comes on if the car dies ;)
 
Yeah I thought that but when I start it up there is not even the hint of a lack of electricity... the battery does die a few times a year though while I am off at school... Perhaps I could try a new battery.
 
It's your alternator. I have the same thing happening to me right now on my mp3. I searched around for used ones and found them between $45-75. I think new I was looking at $170ish.
 
I found some new ones on Amazon for $119. I would rather go new than used with an electrical engine component. Something under warranty would be nice ;).

Are you going to install it yourself? This thing looks like a monster to put in...
 
I didn't think to check amazon....I'll have to do that! True on the warranty.

Yeah me and my father are going to install it. And yes that thing is going to be a pain I can already tell.
 
Ya I was thinking of doing it, but after looking at how much crap is in the way and how I can't even fit my hand down there, I just don't know haha. Anything UNDER the intake manifold was not designed to come out lol. I haven't checked yet, but is it possible to get it from underneath? My buddy is a mechanic but he can't go much lower than $90 on the install...
 
i did it. its pretty straightforward. the bolts on the alternator are a little hard to get though.
 
you did? How long did it take? What did you have to take out to get to it? Did you go from underneath? Please tell me everything! haha
 
I had my alternator go out on me a while back when I had my first Protege, right after warranty too. Its straight forward and the bolts are somewhat difficult to get too but its doable. I replaced mine through the top. A little difficult but you can do it.

Have you performed voltage checks with a meter before attempting to buy a new one? You can also go to Autozone or Checker Auto adn they can check it for free.

Multi-meter does wonders in diagnosing the problem. Very easy to check as well.
 
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I replaced my alternator at christmas and found that the hardest part was getting the alternator in and out.
 
Sounds a little bit easier after reading some posts haha.

And I'm not sure if your talking to me or the op darkangel but I had a brand new battery and had that tested when my car acted goofy and the battery light came on so that left me to only one other option. but yes voltage checks are helpful.
 
i disconnected the bracket holding all the tubes on the left so you have some room. and all the belts of course. take off the strutbar. it took maybe an hour to 2 hours
 
Are you having starting problems?? If not the battery light can come on with certain sensors that aren't reading correctly.

I broke a wire at my iat sensor and it started and ran okay but the cel light and battery light were on. Had another instance a few years back where the battery light was flashing and the car would barely turn over. Turned out to be a frayed cam position sensor wire still making a connection just not a good enough one?

So don't just assume go get the code read at the local auto parts.
 
I actually have a code reader in the mail. I ordered it like 2 weeks ago and it still isnt here hehe. It sounds like what I need to do is doable lol, so I will probably just do it myself. Has anyone made a write-up or how to on this? I did a once-over on StealthWyvern's how-to page and didn't see anything, but you never know.

Also, the San Diego auto parts stores are dumb as hell and don't have code readers. I always had to drive around till I found a shop that could do it for free lol.

Thanks for all of the responses and help!

Also, how hard was it to get the belts back on? Do I need a pulley puller?
 
Are you having starting problems?? If not the battery light can come on with certain sensors that aren't reading correctly.

I broke a wire at my iat sensor and it started and ran okay but the cel light and battery light were on. Had another instance a few years back where the battery light was flashing and the car would barely turn over. Turned out to be a frayed cam position sensor wire still making a connection just not a good enough one?

So don't just assume go get the code read at the local auto parts.

Oh also, no starting problems and it is running fine. I am having the same symptoms as your bad iat sensor.
 
UPDATE:

I am an idiot lmao!

I was gone all last week and when I got back, I finally ran the codes. The code read as an MAF failure. I popped the hood, and realized that my MAF was unplugged! It was on the intake normally, but the electrical wire that supplies it with power had somehow come undone! I wouldn't think that that would throw a battery light, but when I plugged it back in and reset, the car ran fine, no problems, no CEL or batt light!

Thanks for all the help, and please don't make fun of me :P
 
well either way it's not that hard to change i can actually take mine out in about 15 min. and probably with my eyes closed (long story) anyhow all you have to do is remove the bolts from the cruise control push that aside unhook the little canister that's on the firewall push that aside also and you should be able to get to the screws pretty easy then. it's a 12mm for the pos. cable and a 14mm for the bottom screw loosen the plug and the top screws and wiggle that baby to u get it out.
 

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