Bad Motor Mount(s)?

[ganzhimself]

How would one know that one (or multiple) motor mounts are bad? I have a suspicion that at least one has failed, as when I idle in gear there are some odd vibrations which to me would seem like it's a motor mount. What would be the best route to go in replacing the bad mount(s)? I'd like to fix it once and (hopefully) never have to do it again. I see that ProtegeGarage has the AWR Front/Rear set for $149. How do those compare to the stock mounts? (Do they introduce a ton of vibration at idle?) Or are there other options that would be closer to stock that minimize vibrations? Is it something that a guy and a buddy could do in his driveway with a socket set and a few other tools?

 

[SocialStealth]

I replaced my front passenger mount with a few sockets (you'll need extensions) and a crow bar (to set the engine back into its place...it sort of drifted back when the mount was removed).

The other mounts I've heard are.....a pain.... but doable

 

[ganzhimself]

Hmm...
With a quick visual inspection over my lunch break, the passenger side mount looks like its fine. From what I can see and feel on the drivers side mount, it's ok too. I can't see/locate the rear mount. I'm willing to bet that it is a royal pain to get to.

 

[SocialStealth]

Yep!

Are you sure its the mounts? usually the passenger side mount is the first to rip.

Have you cleaned your EGR valve? seafoamed your engine? Maybe you should, you might have a rough idle problem rather than a problem with the mounts.

 

[ganzhimself]

Doing a seafoam-ing of the engine and cleaning the EGR are two things that are on my to-do list before I do anything overly complicated... Like replace the mounts.

 

[P-Funk!]

^Yes the mounts are bad - notorious for our car.
Get the MSP mounts or awr as soft (low durometer) as available.

 

[ganzhimself]

Did the seafoam treatment and that has helped the idle issue quite a bit. I can't see to figure out how to get the EGR out... I read the how-to on it, but I can't seem to figure out where the bolts are that it's talking about. I pulled the intake out and I see the EGR, but I don't see where it bolts up.

 

[bgibb68]

i didn't even read your thing but i would say yes....changed mine out this year and 2 were in multiple pieces and the other 2 were about to be.....don't buy oem get aftermarket

 

[Jack Rot]

Just found out today the motor mount near my firewall is gone!! they put urethane ones in replacement of all the others but that one, since its a little b**** to get to!

 

[Clarkbug]

I just had to replace two of mine, so yeah they are a pain. My passenger side one was shot, but the front was even worse, which Im sure didnt help the passenger side.

Both of those were easy to change. The passenger one I didnt even need to jack the engine (but you should, if you can). I just loosened the bolts to let the other mounts hold the engine, put in the new one, and tightened it back into place.

The front one is even easier, just had a hard time breaking loose the bolts (no breaker bar at my place)

I went urethane for both of them, and its a night and day difference for the driving of the car. I bought a Medieval mount (passenger) and an AWR (front) off of members here on the forum. Gonna change the inserts on the AWR to a 70 duro since the vibes are driving me crazy.

From reading other posts on the issue, I would have a shop do the rear mount for you if you dont want to spend a day doing it yourself. There is a great how-to writeup on how to replace the mounts if you go that way.

 

[SocialStealth]

How much do you think it would cost a shop to replace the mounts?

whats the best mount-for-the-comfort/price other than OEM ?

 

[slavrenz]

To sum up the other posters:

- Motor mounts often go bad on our cars - usually front, side, and rear. driver's side usually doesn't rip.

- All mounts except the rear one are easy to change. You should jack up your engine with a block of wood on the oil pan, but I've never needed a crowbar.

- There is no performance motor mount that is going to give you a comfortable idle. OEM mounts or some of the aftermarket mounts modeled after OEM (e.g., beck-arnley) will work, but even the 70 durometer polyurethane mounts shake like there's no tomorrow.

 

[bgibb68]

i got medieval MM's...all four for 200 off ebay....a lot cheaper than buying them from mazda.....if you replace one or 2 you might as well do all four cause the new ones are probably gonna stress out the other ones and cause them to go....

as for the vibes....well at first they scared the crap outta me cause i thought i did soemthing wrong at first but they have settled down alot.....kinda like a new pair of shoes take's some time to break in.....anyways it's not so bad now and the shifts are better and the motor doesn't move....YAY

 

[turbo_slug]

to keep the motor from falling, put a scissor jack under the oil pan...the reason i say scissor jack because it can be raised with more precision than a hydrolic jack...you might jack it too much when using a hydrolic jack to hold the engine.

 

[poison]

I tried 1 medieval, and sold it within a week. I hated it. I don't have money to replace the two torn mounts (rear and pass), so I bought inserts for all but the rear. They vibe a bit, but it's not bad at all, and I haven't cleaned my egr yet, which may help. I would highly recommend oem with inserts, for comfort.

 

[505SilverP5]

Did three out of the four motor mounts on my P5 today. I used a beam support I got from Harbor Freight to support the motor while I pulled them off. Worked pretty well. I had a couple issues with fitment since they were not Mazda parts. Had to break out the file to make a couple holes a little bigger. I also had to cut the brake line support bracket from the old driver side mount and sandwich it between the mount and bolt on the new piece. Couldn't believe it was missing. You get what you pay for I guess. I couldn't tell if the rear one was ripped so I didn't buy a new one but I'm thinking I should try to do the rear mount as well just so they are all new. The other three kicked my ass though! Have to say the driver's side was the worst one..... until I attempt the rear....(notcool)

 

[pasadena_commut]

How would one know that one (or multiple) motor mounts are bad? I have a suspicion that at least one has failed, as when I idle in gear there are some odd vibrations which to me would seem like it's a motor mount.

Just had the passenger and front mounts replaced on our P5 with stock Mazda parts. The vibration when stopped in drive (automatic transmission) was dramatically reduced. So yes, bad mounts can result in increased vibration. No extra vibration was noted when moving, even on the bad mounts, so the new ones didn't change anything in that regard. Our mechanic charged $475 for all service done that day, so subtract the price of an oil change and tire rotation and that is ballpark for what an independent mechanic might charge you. For dealer service, well, who knows, double that probably.

 

[505SilverP5]

I didn't really notice the vibration while moving but it was pretty bad while sitting still and on start up and the clutch shuddered sometimes when I let it out. Everything is smooth as glass now and I noticed it is a lot quieter while driving. I did the work myself with aftermarket parts but my dealer quoted me at $200 for labor and factory parts (all four mounts) was supposedly around $500. You could get them for roughly half that at Onlinemazdaparts.com. We'll see how the cheap aftermarket parts hold up. If they fail quickly, I will probably go to performance aftermarket parts and risk a little more vibration.

If you suspect the motor mounts, it's pretty easy to see the ones on the passenger and driver side wheel wells. You will actually see a tear in the rubber isolation material. It's a bit harder to see the front mount as it is down towards the bottom of the engine behind the bumper. The rear one is even worse to access. I didn't end up changing that one myself. I'll probably take it in if I find that it's torn.

 

[wisenhymer]

Has anyone used atm mounts? they are available at NAPA. my passenger side mount is definately torn others look okay, but may replace others any way. price online (and usualy what store quotes) is right side $131.29. i need to replace since 1st and 2nd gear shudders especialy in the snow. thanks


2002 PRO5
manual
mostly stock

 

[wisenhymer]

Well i recieved mounts from NAPA. Came in bag marked ultra-8 Performance. number 1. Sleave in rubber .020" larger than shaft of mount bolted to engine. Lucky for me i am able to make stainless steel sleave to shim difference. would not recomend for any one else. very simalar to oem vibration absorbtion. (gossip)2. if you are having hard time with bolts and nuts on mounts use wd40 or other penetrating fluids on them the day before, and 1/2" drive tools.