Inserts installed as well (driver's side)
So, I installed the tranny side inserts last night. Took a little longer than what tytanium here had scribed (though the How-To helped quite a bit but its true, it is very easy). Some nuances of my install:
1) Though I used a jack to adjust the tranny height, I didnt need to fine tune it. I almost questioned if I needed to use it to begin with, but it didnt hurt. Point being: use the jack to support the tranny dont forget the 2x4 block to protect the case from the jack saddle.
2) I pulled not only the socket head cap screws (i.e. bolts) that held the mount to the inner fender well, but I also pulled the bracket that holds the mount to the tranny. So I pulled all the fasteners indicated in overview.jpg, but also the ones on the tranny itself. I felt this was necessary so I could get a proper torque on the #2 and #5 when reassembling (which is 50 to 68 ft-lbs BTW).
This also made the reinstallation a bit easier. One recommendation: use WD-40 (or other spray lube) not only for inserting the inserts into the rubber body, but also for helping to slide the insert laden mount between the tranny support (it was mentioned to use a screwdriver to help leverage the mount in).
3) If you have a stock intake in place, you will need to take out the front air intake, the filter box and MAF. I left the flex pipe in place that runs to the throttle. Also, the battery pretty much needs to come out, along with the tray it just makes life easier.
That said, some initial impressions. But also some nuances and background:
I have an 03 Pro5, but I have been suffering from cold clutch chatter in the mornings (the dealer gave me the wear item run around I have a new clutch/flywheel on the way to install). I also have a B&M short shifter, Corksport Bronzoil shifter rod bushings, and Kartboy shifter bushing as well. On top of that, I have a GT Spec A-arm tie-bar. Due to the clutch chatter, I would get either the exhaust or the shifter rod (I need to get under it to check again) hitting something I felt this was the tie bar being tapped on. I also have a front AWR 88 duro (A/T) mount.
Needless to say, this felt annoying in the morning. 2nd-5th gears would all be fine, but having to rev to 3k to launch in 1st gear while cold grows long in the tooth pretty early.
So, I finish the install last night, and go for a spin. Upon firing up, I noticed that the vibration changed pitch. It is now a bit deeper, but in a way, its MUCH more tolerable. Everything in the dash doesnt vibrate like hell and even that kick when starting is seemingly gone (more of a vague feeling that the engine kicks when starting up).
So, the spin: Good Lord, I love it! The car was a bit warm, so I didnt have any chatter issues last night (this morning a different story). I pulled into the alley from the garage and just let it cruise in 1st gear to see if I got any bucking/lurching: nothing if it was there, it was very minimal.
The second issue with the combination I had was that my 1st to 2nd shifts would suck bad. I would literally need to wait for the engine to come back to rest to complete the shift from 1st while accelerating. Annoying? Yes.Now, I pretty much click through the 1-2 w/o worrying about it so much. That said, the effective throttle response has improved, even at speed (highway, etc). Shifting is very much improved and I can click through the gears much better.
I am eager to get the passenger side mount inserts in place as well.
I am also going to pull the AWR front mount and put in the OEM unit with RR Racing inserts (that I got from another member on here), just for a controlled test and for giggles too. Then Ill see if I want to sell the AWR or go with 77 durometer on the front. I may also attempt to get the RR Racing inserts into the rear mount (vs. pulling and replacing with the AWR 88 duro I have). Another driving force is that I feel a "groan" in the chassis when accelerating - I don't know if this is the tie-bar resonating because of a tighter chassis or if the AWR front mount puts the axis of the mount in a different geometric plane that the rest of the mounts don't like and thus "groan" on acceleration (mostly in 1st and 2nd)
At any rate, I recommend the inserts to everyone and their mother, regardless if they drive a Protg or not. If they dont, go buy one. Then buy the inserts.
