AWR or Mazda engine mounts?

[MP3Performance]

So I have had my car for about half a year and have noticed the infamous WHEEL HOP. It is soo bad sometimes that I get it even when starting from a stoplight. I decided I NEED new engine mounts and am going to order some within a couple of days, and will probobly get both mounts and inserts for sides.

I have 3 questions:

#1: (MOST IMPORTANT) Can or will the AWR 70 Durometer mounts plus side inserts cause any damage to the engine/trans./mounting spots/etc.... since there will be no or very little absorbtion from engine?
#2: Should I consider OEM Mazda engine mounts to replace the old ones, and how long did they for anyone who had the car since new. (since the car has 80,000 miles on it)?
#3: What is the price for new Mazda engine mounts?

P.S.- I will probobly be installing a turbo sometime next year, if that makes any difference between mounts

-Thanks in advance

 

[Bigg Tim]

So I have had my car for about half a year and have noticed the infamous WHEEL HOP. It is soo bad sometimes that I get it even when starting from a stoplight. I decided I NEED new engine mounts and am going to order some within a couple of days, and will probobly get both mounts and inserts for sides.

I have 3 questions:

#1: (MOST IMPORTANT) Can or will the AWR 70 Durometer mounts plus side inserts cause any damage to the engine/trans./mounting spots/etc.... since there will be no or very little absorbtion from engine?
#2: Should I consider OEM Mazda engine mounts to replace the old ones, and how long did they for anyone who had the car since new. (since the car has 80,000 miles on it)?
#3: What is the price for new Mazda engine mounts?

P.S.- I will probobly be installing a turbo sometime next year, if that makes any difference between mounts

-Thanks in advance

The AWR mounts will not cause any damage and are great units. If you are at all worried about vibration inside the car, then stick with the stockers. I only have the front one on and I feel the vibration. I have felt what it's like with the rear and I am hesitant on putting mine in. You should be safe going with AWR mounts if that doesn't bother you.

As for the stock mounts....

$47.95 for the front
$83.05 for the rear
$168.90 for the side
$80.85 for the trans mount

Taken from www.onlinemazdaparts.com but you may be able to find them cheaper.

 

[l2eedy]

I got a new stock front in good condition 25$ shipped

 

[pluto316]

A stiffer mount is BETTER for your transmission because there's less bucking and sudden jarring force. That's what leads to damage.

 

[TheMAN]

So I have had my car for about half a year and have noticed the infamous WHEEL HOP. It is soo bad sometimes that I get it even when starting from a stoplight. I decided I NEED new engine mounts and am going to order some within a couple of days, and will probobly get both mounts and inserts for sides.

I have 3 questions:

#1: (MOST IMPORTANT) Can or will the AWR 70 Durometer mounts plus side inserts cause any damage to the engine/trans./mounting spots/etc.... since there will be no or very little absorbtion from engine?
#2: Should I consider OEM Mazda engine mounts to replace the old ones, and how long did they for anyone who had the car since new. (since the car has 80,000 miles on it)?
#3: What is the price for new Mazda engine mounts?

P.S.- I will probobly be installing a turbo sometime next year, if that makes any difference between mounts

-Thanks in advance

if the "wheel hop" is happening when "starting from a stop light", then you have CLUTCH CHATTER which is the REAL problem, NOT your engine mounts

 

[pluto316]

Or he could be gunning it at every light?

 

[rednecks_r_us]

I have the 95 durometer for my mounts. I hardly feel the vibration any more.

AWR are so much better than stock even if you go with the softest 70 durometer.

Attached is my stock motor mount on the left and Aaron's (EmbriMSP) stock mount on the right. He had some wheel hop and still took it down the drag strip and this is what happened.

He now has AWR in all 4 mounts.

 

[MP3Performance]

A stiffer mount is BETTER for your transmission because there's less bucking and sudden jarring force. That's what leads to damage.

Thats what I was thinking too, just wanted to make sure.
I will order the AWR all around, since so many people have had them put in without problems afterward.

Or he could be gunning it at every light?

No, I am gentle on the car for everyday driving. And I dont over-rev the engine for normal starts. The only time I go hard is on the track. It mostly hops when the roads are wet.

if the "wheel hop" is happening when "starting from a stop light", then you have CLUTCH CHATTER which is the REAL problem, NOT your engine mounts

I dont think this is it, since it doesnt hapen every time I drive and I am sure the mounts are bad since I can feel the engine "rocking" sometimes when I let go of the gas or push in the clutch while driving. But just to be sure how could I tell if CLUTCH CHATTER could be the problem?

 

[Keno1542]

just make sure you go with the same material on all your mounts though, if you don't you could crack your transmission case or worse.

 

[JoeManNorth]

Even though I was not the person to ask the question this little strip helped alot. I recently blew my tranny (well actualy today) I'm going to be putting in a light wieght flywheel, a performance clutch and if it's actualy the tranny thats gone, witch i'm pretty sure it is since the car is stuck in the middle of the parking lot unable to be pushed even in nutral or with the clutch pushed down, I will be putting in a MSP tranny.

My question is, would it be worth changing the rear mount when the tranny is out or is it the same price to have it done later on?

 

[pluto316]

Why a MSP tranny? Also, if you're going to change the mount, do it while the engine is out.

 

[JoeManNorth]

MSP tranny has LSD and a quicker gear ratio (for a faster take off). They wont pull the engine for the tranny it can come out straight up. well I'm pretty sure anyways.

 

[pluto316]

MSP tranny has LSD and a quicker gear ratio (for a faster take off). They wont pull the engine for the tranny it can come out straight up. well I'm pretty sure anyways.

Who told you it has different gears? Depending on how much you're playing, you might be able to snag an aftermarket LSD cheaper. I'd shop around first.

 

[JoeManNorth]

I will take that advice. But I do believe that it is one of the main difference between a MP3 and a MSP (well appart from the turbo of course). I may be mistaking of course.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I just put the 95 durometers in front and back, and the car vibrates all to hell... But no more wheel hop and any drivetrain lash is completely gone. I'll have to get used to them for sure...

 

[MP3Performance]

First off thanks to all for the info.

Today I installed the AWR 70 duro front and rear mounts (went to mechanic because I didn't even want to try the back). The mounts are awesome! No wheelhop, no drivetrain lash, and shifting is so much smoother. I knew there was going to be more cabin noise and shaking, but I was willing to accept it. Too tell you the truth, its less than what I was thought it would be and way less then what I was willing to handle. The only problem is having the A/C on with the lights while stoped, then its starts getting a little ridiculas.

The stock front and rear mounts both were riped (but not as bad as rednecks_r_us has in his picture), and I also can see that the passangers side mount is riped from the inside.

I will try to put in the side inserts tomorrow, seems easy enough from looking at it. I'll tell you tomorrow how it goes.

P.S.- I found out from the mechanic that I need to change my front endlinks (they have been knocking for some time and I wasn't sure what it was in front). I will order the front adjustable ones from AWR, but shoud I also change out the back ones. The mechanic said it seemed they were ok, but I still hear something in the rear sometimes. ( I also just installed new swaybar bushings)