AWR Adjustable Endlinks

gone_fishin

Member
:
One of a Kind '99
I've got the front and rears on the way. But before installation, I need a few questions answered.

The First: Is there actually a noticeable improvement over the stock endlinks?

The Second: I searched for specifications regarding the endlinks themselves, and how much preload they should (safely) be adjusted to without risk of damaging the strut. I understand that on the front, if the endlinks are preloaded too much, the mounting tab on the struts can actually be ripped off. Who has had the best results and how much preload were they adjusted to?

The Third: Has virtually everyone had noise issues with these?-- it seems that way. I guess I'll be purchasing some rubber grommets from NAPA.

Any responses (especially for the second question) would be appreciated.
 
I don't know how much preload the suspension can take, I tightened them as much as possible because I have the TEIN SS suspension and they can take the abuse but I have seen pics of ripped suspension tabs and that doesn't look like fun. I jus tried to put my sway bars back to the same location they were previously pointing.

They are load, use, plenty of anti-seize on them and I tried the rubber grommets but the stress of the suspension forces tore them up so I wouldn't even waste your time or money putting them on.

Mark
 
gone_fishin said:
I've got the front and rears on the way. But before installation, I need a few questions answered.

The First: Is there actually a noticeable improvement over the stock endlinks?.

I can't tell you, I installed my Ksports at the same time.

gone_fishin said:
The Second: I searched for specifications regarding the endlinks themselves, and how much preload they should (safely) be adjusted to without risk of damaging the strut. I understand that on the front, if the endlinks are preloaded too much, the mounting tab on the struts can actually be ripped off. Who has had the best results and how much preload were they adjusted to?.

You will want to adjust the endlinks so they have no preload. That is the major benefit of adjustable endlinks. The only time I've heard of preloading endlinks is for slightly adjusting cornerweights in classes that don't allow adjustable suspensions. Not advisable because you risk damaging components.

gone_fishin said:
The Third: Has virtually everyone had noise issues with these?-- it seems that way. I guess I'll be purchasing some rubber grommets from NAPA.

Any responses (especially for the second question) would be appreciated.

Mine were not noisy until the o-ring wore out. Get a few extra and you'll be fine. It's just the way rod ends / heim joints / spherical bearings are.
 
sm76 said:
I can't tell you, I installed my Ksports at the same time.



You will want to adjust the endlinks so they have no preload. That is the major benefit of adjustable endlinks. The only time I've heard of preloading endlinks is for slightly adjusting cornerweights in classes that don't allow adjustable suspensions. Not advisable because you risk damaging components.



Mine were not noisy until the o-ring wore out. Get a few extra and you'll be fine. It's just the way rod ends / heim joints / spherical bearings are.

I haven't seen the endlinks in person yet, so forgive my ignorance. But with regard to the pre-load question, I'm guessing that on the endlink shaft itself there is a nut that you would tighten/loosen to adjust the preload? If zero preload is your goal, how would you accordingly adjust the endlink?
 
gone_fishin said:
I haven't seen the endlinks in person yet, so forgive my ignorance. But with regard to the pre-load question, I'm guessing that on the endlink shaft itself there is a nut that you would tighten/loosen to adjust the preload? If zero preload is your goal, how would you accordingly adjust the endlink?

There is a threaded tube as the center. The two ends have opossite threads so as you turn the center they both either move out of or into the tube. You can just set up the length so the bolt goes through the hole easily with the wheels at the same height (preferably on the ground if you can reach the endlinks) and you won't have any preload. Then tighten down the retaining nuts and you are set.

Look at this picture from AWR:
endlinkAsstLG.jpg
 
I was hearing a clunk..clunk for a little while and I finally put my car on a lift. I thought the noises were from the typical metal on metal endlink noise which I was told would be normal BUT!!. My front passenger side Awr endlink disconnected at the threads!? I gotta put my stockers back on for now but I was surprised...it looks like the threads stripped and came apart...so be careful guys.

My endlinks were adjusted with no pre-load BTW or whatever that means?
 
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What is with all of this preload mess..?
You will only have preload if you set them up wrong from the beggining by having them at different lengths.

The only wat to Load the bar would be to have the links at different lengths putting a "Twist" or preload in the bar...which would be bad for one direction of body roll depending on how you set it.

The bar will move through its whole process with no links on Smootly..so if the Links arew the same length..no load will be present until the Bar get loaded by one wheel fighting the other Vs. the body....which is what its designed to do.

Personally..I have seen way too much on here about broken Front AWR's and I whitnk is because they are getting set up comepletely wrong from the get go.
 
I installed front swaybar links to get rid off the clunk. I reproduced the exact lenght of the stock links to make sure there was not issues. A few weeks later, new clunk. I found there was some lose between the tie rod and the rod threads. SU claims AWR would not replace them due to the "racing nature" of this product.....the MSP is my daily driver, thank God I don't race with it....So I readjusted them, put some Loctite (there goes the adjustability) and fixed the problem for some time but I it is slowly coming back. So thumbs way down for this product
 
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