AutoMeter Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge - Where to connect?

[mspeedP5]

I'm doing that exact same thing, and after researching I hope I've revealed some good info which helps more than just me. That said, I'd like some second opinions to be 100% certain.

I can say with 90% certainty that you can unscrew the stock unit, remote locate both senders using 1 braided stainless steel line with a "T" fitting at the end (stock on one side, AutoMeter on the other), and all while maintaining your turbo line in the stock spot. I've attached a photo for review (bottom-side pointing up) to make sure we are all talking apples and apples. Red arrows indicate what I've come to believe is the stock unit and green arrows indicate where it would unscrew from (I unplugged the small green wire which was leading to it just for the purpose of clarity, otherwise that would still be connected).

If I'm correct, you can use a male to male fitting from that newly freed up spot off the block to go into the braided line. Although I didn't remove the stock piece to check, I did closely compare an 1/8" NPT threaded adapter to it and it looks identical. Therefore, that's what the stock port utilizes. So, with the necessary adapters, I'm fairly certain this can be done with no negative affects.

Thoughts?

The info I have is that the OEM sender is 1/8" BSPT so you need an adapter to go from 1/8" NPT to BSPT.
Autometer has one. Part No. 2269 Metric Adapter.

So what you plan to do is put a tee at the OEM port. One side will be the feed to the turbo, the other side will feed a line to another tee that will supply the OEM sender plus the new gauge sender. Correct? This would then require 2 of the above mentioned adapters, or something similar to accept the OEM sender.

 

[tallrd]

The info I have is that the OEM sender is 1/8" BSPT so you need an adapter to go from 1/8" NPT to BSPT.
Autometer has one. Part No. 2269 Metric Adapter.

So what you plan to do is put a tee at the OEM port. One side will be the feed to the turbo, the other side will feed a line to another tee that will supply the OEM sender plus the new gauge sender. Correct? This would then require 2 of the above mentioned adapters, or something similar to accept the OEM sender.

Thanks for the part #s. Yes, that is exactly what I'm trying to accomplish.

Are you 100% sure about the NPT vs BSPT? Has anyone actually done this?

Here's a link to confirm what you are talking about. Scroll down to the adapters, and it's listed there for use with WRX's:
http://www.jscspeed.com/index.html?/universal/gauges/autometer_gauges.htm

I have been getting mixed opinions on what size that is on the block and Mazda told me they didn't know and couldn't find out.

 

[mspeedP5]

Are you 100% sure about the NPT vs BSPT? Has anyone actually done this?

This is where I got the info from...
2nd post

 

[wicked]

Can I safely use the port that the OEM sending unit for the low oil pressure light attaches to for:
- Oil supply for my turbo
- OEM low oil light
- Sending unit for Autometer Full Sweep Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
It'll require a few fittings to get it all together, just wondering if anyone has done this before?
Or, as an alternative, is there any other port that I could use to attach one of the above?

yes you can,I did.
it is a tight squeeze though.

I used a "T",and all is well.


though I wil say it's a hell of a lot easier with the intake mani removed.

 

[tallrd]

cool. I don't mean to doubt you mspeedP5. I've just been given so much misinformation on this site, I have to install "qualifyers" on all my questions. (stooges)

In any case, this solves a large week-long mystery for me. I'll get the parts I need on order tomorrow

 

[mspeedP5]

cool. I don't mean to doubt you mspeedP5. I've just been given so much misinformation on this site, I have to install "qualifyers" on all my questions. (stooges)

In any case, this solves a large week-long mystery for me. I'll get the parts I need on order tomorrow

BTW, the Auto Meter adapter is plated steel so you can rest easy that it won't break like the brass ones that have been mentioned.
On another note, where are you mounting your tee for the senders? I'm also curious how you are dealing with the AM sender plug that has to be fed through the firewall. They ask for a 1" hole to be drilled but I'm kinda thinking there must be another way (like cutting the wires to feed them through and then splicing them back together again)?

 

[tallrd]

BTW, the Auto Meter adapter is plated steel so you can rest easy that it won't break like the brass ones that have been mentioned.
On another note, where are you mounting your tee for the senders? I'm also curious how you are dealing with the AM sender plug that has to be fed through the firewall. They ask for a 1" hole to be drilled but I'm kinda thinking there must be another way (like cutting the wires to feed them through and then splicing them back together again)?

I haven't thought too hard about specifically where I will put the "T" because, frankly, my priority was getting it off the block. Anywhere else I put it will be better than that I'll probably make a bracket for it from hardware store parts and bolt it to my firewall.

As for the wire run from the guage to the sender, that's only one small wire. I've attached photos of where I will run it though from the engine bay into the interior (disregard the text in the photos--it doesn't apply here). That's where I will run the wire through using a coat hanger. I'll just electrical tape the wire to the straightened hanger over the end to make it blunt; wouldn't want to catch any other wires off guard while running in through there.

p.s. ignore the vacuum source for my DSM unit; that was wrong and now it's right.

 

[tallrd]

Alright. I got sick of trying to imagine all these adapters and fitting and such, so i did a flow chart for those of you who are wanting to this and make sure you have the right parts before hand.

EDIT: As mspeedP5 said, you need the Auto Meter part # 2269 to go into the block fitting from the AM braided ss line (additionally using the supplied male to male adapter with the AM kit).

As for the "T", it turns out these are very popular in paintballing. They call a male 1/8" NPT bottom, dual female 1/8" NPT top "T" fitting a "male branch tee." If I can't find it through Summit Racing or something like that, I'm going to paintball supply stores. That would just leave the need for an adapter to take the stock sender from BSPT to NPT.

Anyone know where to find that? I keep running against walls in my searching. In the meantime, the attachment should speak for itself.

 

[mspeedP5]

Now I just want to confirm that the OEM sender is the one just to the above/right of the white plastic connector in this picture...?
Also, is this above or below the oil level in the engine? (ie, do I have to drain oil before removing?)

 

[wicked]

yes,that is it,and yes you have to drain the oil.

 

[Brian MP5T]

 

[Brian MP5T]

yes,that is it,and yes you have to drain the oil.

No it isn't the oil never comes over the Aluminium Crank Support plate. You will get some but you do not have to dump the oil...

 

[Brian MP5T]

Now I just want to confirm that the OEM sender is the one just to the above/right of the white plastic connector in this picture...?
Also, is this above or below the oil level in the engine? (ie, do I have to drain oil before removing?)

Make sure you dont remove the one directly over the oil filter. That is the Engine Knock Sensor..

 

[wicked]

No it isn't the oil never comes over the Aluminium Crank Support plate. You will get some but you do not have to dump the oil...

yeah,but I don't see it happening much without removing the oil filter.

 

[Brian MP5T]

The filter sits up and to the right. It might be much better if the 4 Bolts and the intake mani support is removed, but I don't think it's going to be a big deal with or without the filter attached. If it's time for a change then fine, but If not, waste of oil and time. IMO...

 

[wicked]

or just do it next oil change.



BTW,I did mine with the intake mani out.

 

[Brian MP5T]

Well, your idea is good, there is no harm in taking it off.

 

[mspeedP5]

It might be much better if the 4 Bolts and the intake mani support is removed

I was wondering about this. It would certainly give one more room to work with it out of the way. I hope it isn't too much of PITA to remove.

 

[Brian MP5T]

I was wondering about this. It would certainly give one more room to work with it out of the way. I hope it isn't too much of PITA to remove.

Not at all. It might be "Attached" well, but It serves no purpose if the car isn't running..

 

[mspeedP5]

What is this?