ATP Turbo upgrade on MS6

TNT

Member
:
Mazdaspeed 6
Hello everyone... First of all I would like to thank all users for posting so much usefull info here. (hump)

I'm planning to purchase by next month the GT3071R upgrade kit from ATP Turbo, including 3" downpipe option. I'm not new to mods so I kind of know what I'm getting myself into.(screwy) I would like to estimate as best as possible what would break down next (if you will) after I install it, or my next mandatory upgrade.. My MS6 is totally stock and I'm not planning to upgrade the intercooler right away. I'm looking for all kinds of helpfull experiences. Thanks...
 
ATP SRI - 195 (Big MAF)
ATP TIP - 295
3.5 Bar MAP Sensor - ???
Cobb FMIC - 995
ATP GT35r - 2095
Misc Connections/adapters - 300
Cobb DP - 695
Cobb AP W/Protune - 1195
CPe Fuel Pump - 640
Motor Mounts - 450
Flywheel - 375
Clutch - 720 (rated to 470tq)
Catch Can W/ hoses - 150 (PCV Fix)
Denzo ITV22's - 45 (1 step colder)
Diff Mounts - Dunno Price I got an MS3


Route I will eventually be going....prices do not include labor and are retail and rounded. obviously u can save by going used/gots connections......

You will require an upgraded intercooler......
 
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8.5MS3...
your list doesnt look too bad, but I feel some misinformation in the fact that you believe an upgraded intercooler is necessary. i agree that it is a much better idea.

TNT
Hey there..
well. you're right, you are a little bit crazy for deciding to go with a big turbo from a completely stock car.
a few things you will NEED to make it work. (and some suggestions from me)

-get your intake (be it short ram or cold air) from Cobb or Cpe. they use the same MAF housing as the stock size to make it safer to run with out tuning (you should really get a tuning solution), and easier to tune when you do get a tuning solution.

- the Turbo inlet on these atp turbos is 4 inches. i understand that they offer a turbo inlet pipe with the kit, but i highly recommend going with CPe`s 4inch big turbo specific inlet tube.
the atp is a little flawed in design and cause your fuel trims to get out of wack, which consequently can make your car run more rich or lean. and it will NOT mate up with the stock airbox (it will mate up with ATPs improperly designed intake).
below is a picture of the Cpe turbo inlet tube for the big turbos from atp. i had the gt2871r.
CIMG0443.jpg


the next picture shows what the differences are between the ATP, CPE, and stock inlet pipes look like.
CIMG0442.jpg


- the ATP 3 inch DP will work just fine (the ATP turbos currently have a stock flange available, but the first kits they released had a v-band only option)
besides maybe a coupler and a modified oil drain line, this is all that is necessary to run the turbo you desire.

would i recommend doing it this way? no.
in my opinion, there should be some safety precautions for engine longevity and preliminary mods done first.
your kinda doing it backwards.
 
8.5MS3...
your list doesnt look too bad, but I feel some misinformation in the fact that you believe an upgraded intercooler is necessary. i agree that it is a much better idea.

TNT
Hey there..
well. you're right, you are a little bit crazy for deciding to go with a big turbo from a completely stock car.
a few things you will NEED to make it work. (and some suggestions from me)

-get your intake (be it short ram or cold air) from Cobb or Cpe. they use the same MAF housing as the stock size to make it safer to run with out tuning (you should really get a tuning solution), and easier to tune when you do get a tuning solution.

- the Turbo inlet on these atp turbos is 4 inches. i understand that they offer a turbo inlet pipe with the kit, but i highly recommend going with CPe`s 4inch big turbo specific inlet tube.
the atp is a little flawed in design and cause your fuel trims to get out of wack, which consequently can make your car run more rich or lean. and it will NOT mate up with the stock airbox (it will mate up with ATPs improperly designed intake).
below is a picture of the Cpe turbo inlet tube for the big turbos from atp. i had the gt2871r.
CIMG0443.jpg


the next picture shows what the differences are between the ATP, CPE, and stock inlet pipes look like.
CIMG0442.jpg


- the ATP 3 inch DP will work just fine (the ATP turbos currently have a stock flange available, but the first kits they released had a v-band only option)
besides maybe a coupler and a modified oil drain line, this is all that is necessary to run the turbo you desire.

would i recommend doing it this way? no.
in my opinion, there should be some safety precautions for engine longevity and preliminary mods done first.
your kinda doing it backwards.

that cpe piece looks like its 3 inch with a 4 inch reducer..... i was totally imagining a 4 inch front to back piece... and was expecting a relocated battery.
 
you are correct zinger002.
stock battery.

for reiteration the inlet tube itself is not 4 inches. just the actual turbo inlet part, which reduces to the 3 inch tube.

the ATP piece is a pancaked 3 inch which requires a separate 3-4 inch silicone reducer.
 
Out of those posted, CP-E's TIP is the best design in my opinion. The only problem I have with the piece is the increase from 3" to 4" on the outlet side of the TIP. Sure at the increase in diamater you're going to gain volume but you're also going to see a pressure drop and the velocity of the air you're taking in will decrease possibly significantly.

I would be curious about the amount of turbulence created by the diameter increase. Essentially, you're going to have air slowing down right before it gets to the turbo and being pushed toward the walls of the intake by the air behind it, causing the air to swirl and creating the turbulence I was talking about. The increase in diameter basically annuls the conditioning of the air the rest of your TIP and intake create.

I would love to see them make a 4" intake and TIP for this application. Maybe they do, but I can't think of one off the top of my head.
 
turbulance before the turbo may be a good thing. Sometimes laminar flow isnt desireable. Imagine a jet engine. The housing surrounding the fan actually acts as a diffuser, slowing the air down prior to entering the engine. this increases both its efficiency and power....just a thought.
 
Out of those posted, CP-E's TIP is the best design in my opinion. The only problem I have with the piece is the increase from 3" to 4" on the outlet side of the TIP. Sure at the increase in diamater you're going to gain volume but you're also going to see a pressure drop and the velocity of the air you're taking in will decrease possibly significantly.

I would be curious about the amount of turbulence created by the diameter increase. Essentially, you're going to have air slowing down right before it gets to the turbo and being pushed toward the walls of the intake by the air behind it, causing the air to swirl and creating the turbulence I was talking about. The increase in diameter basically annuls the conditioning of the air the rest of your TIP and intake create.

I would love to see them make a 4" intake and TIP for this application. Maybe they do, but I can't think of one off the top of my head.



Meh I don't like the CPE design at all. The "mouth" is so big. I guess if you have a 4 inch or bigger intake it would work but on the mazdaspeed 3/6 the intakes are almost all 2.5. So why make the mouth so big . . . I just don't get it.

Then they provide a metal coupler to connect your intake with your TIP which made for a "sketchy" looking fit. No matter how I clamped it it looked weird and unstable. Not to mention it made my intake too long which didn't allow the CAI bracket to line up properly to the bolt.

If you have the matching cpe intake im sure it fits well but for any others I would definately get the PG. My intake temps are actually cooler with the PG. Don't ask me why because I would think silicone wouldn't get as hot but I guess I was wrong.
 
a pack of smokes.
seriously though.. what intake would you be using it with?

I'd imagine I'd have to go custom on the intake huh?
I saw a local guy who modded either a injen or fujita into a sri and made it work, thought I'd hook up with him and see how he did it.
Let me know, I know it's longer than other tip's but I think I could fab something up if the price is right.:D
 
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if your plannin on runnin more boost with the bigger turbo, engine management is a must. after that you need to make sure stuff stays put with some motor mount upgrades and protect that rear diff and axles with the proper upgrades as well.

power aint no good if you cant put it down.

but i think you need to seriously re-evaluate your options/goals. with what it cost to do the ATP turbo upgrade. you could build a more suitable and beneficial foundation for a future turbo upgrade. all the while maximizing the potential of the stock turbo and still learning alot about your car and having a lot speedy fun in the process.

an intake, tip, dp, ems, would give you a big fat bump in power. and if plan and pick your parts right, you can prolly bolt up that 3071 later.

just my 2 pennys:)
 
Meh I don't like the CPE design at all. The "mouth" is so big. I guess if you have a 4 inch or bigger intake it would work but on the mazdaspeed 3/6 the intakes are almost all 2.5. So why make the mouth so big . . . I just don't get it.

Then they provide a metal coupler to connect your intake with your TIP which made for a "sketchy" looking fit. No matter how I clamped it it looked weird and unstable. Not to mention it made my intake too long which didn't allow the CAI bracket to line up properly to the bolt.

If you have the matching cpe intake im sure it fits well but for any others I would definately get the PG. My intake temps are actually cooler with the PG. Don't ask me why because I would think silicone wouldn't get as hot but I guess I was wrong.

1) the "mouth" on mine is large for the 4 inch turbo inlet, if that was the side you were talking about. the rest of it is 3.
2) metal coupler? do you mean clamp? just trying to clarify?
3) curious where your getting these temp readings from? there is an IAT sensor that is basically on the MAF, and a BAT sensor near the throttle body.

not trying to argue, just curious thats all (usa)
 
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