At 130k miles, should I wait to replace dust boot?

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2014 Mazda CX-5 Sport MT / 2016 Mazda CX-9 GT AWD
My 2014 CX-5 has a crack in the front suspension dust boot. The car also has 130k mi on it. The dealer quoted me something like $400 to replace them, which is almost all labor.

I read the previous two threads on this topic:

- https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/boot-strut-need-to-be-replace.123840869/
- https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/front-supension-dust-boot-broken.123829545/

But in both of those cases, the cars were pretty new and possibly covered under warranty. However, my car has 130k miles and the front shocks are the originals. I'm tempted to delay the repair until one of the front shocks (or some other suspension component) actually starts having problems that require a repair, and then replace the newly problematic part plus old worn boots at the same time. Otherwise I'm worried that I might do the $400 repair to replace the $8 boots now, only to find out in another 10k or 20k miles that the old shock has begun to fail anyway due to age and I have to shell out another $400 for labor. And given that I'm driving on Michigan's bad roads, I'm surprised the original shocks have lasted this long. (I already had to replace the rears at around 60k.)

I know one solution is to replace the boot because it needs it and do the shock at the same time preemptively, but I don't see an advantage to doing this rather than just waiting. Unless, that is, it will be hard to notice the shock going bad, it could fail catastrophically, or waiting could somehow damage some other component.
 
Your front shocks are probably going to fail soon. Are you planning on keeping rhe car to 240k mi? It's unlikely you will wear out the second set of shocks. The dust will be damaging the unprotected parts if you wait to replace the boot.
 
I'd replace both boots and the shocks preemptively. Also, I wouldn't go to the dealer for this work. Boot and shock replacement should be a fairly common procedure that most independent shops are familiar with, so I'd have and independent shop do the repair as labour will likely be much cheaper.
 
Since the shocks are close to the end of their life , what about trying to fit a split boot of the type that are used on CV joints or maybe some other type of split boot is available. I mean, the oem dust boot doesn't seal all that tight to begin with. No way I'd spend anything on that which requires disassembling the shocks. A crack there is minor and a money maker for the dealer, I'd let it go until new struts installed.
News Flash, I just remembered -- why not 'glue it. Try using Permatex Adhesive Sealant. It's like silicone sealant but really sticks and is strong. Just clean the boot with alcohol or something. I repaired torn CV boots with this in the past. I always keep a tube on hand.
 
I'd replace both boots and the shocks preemptively. Also, I wouldn't go to the dealer for this work. Boot and shock replacement should be a fairly common procedure that most independent shops are familiar with, so I'd have and independent shop do the repair as labour will likely be much cheaper.
This ^^ is the advice you'll want to follow. And I'll just add that IMO, with your vehicle's mileage, it's ludicrous for them to suggest replacing only the boots for that amount of $$, instead of just quoting new struts, with new boots as part of that job. I'd be shocked (sorry - had to do it) if an indy shop didn't recommend new struts + boots, and probably for not too much more than what the stealership would charge you for the boots alone.
 
With the amount of mileage on the struts and dust boots, I'm going to step on some toes here and say that suggesting the OP spend any money at a garage is making too big a deal out of this. It's a high mileage torn dust boot not an oil seal or anything critical. Hell, wrap it duct tape. Save the money for struts when the time comes and the struts just might last longer than you think even with a torn dust boot, so I would not get new struts soon just because of a dust boot . And besides, I see the word 'cracked' not 'torn' and just how bad is this crack? Dealers are great for exaggerating and taking advantage of people who have no experience in automotive matters.
Furthermore, if one actually goes out and LOOKS at the dust boot and grab hold and move it up and down and see how loose it fits, just how much extra dirt is the crack passing through it. It's your car and your money but if it were mine I'd just periodically inspect it for leakage if in fact it's a cause for concern. I personally leave expensive ,fear driven decisions for more important matters.
 
... I'm going to step on some toes here....

Well you're not stepping on my toes, because I don't disagree with anything you wrote - provided we're talking to someone who is a DIYer. And unless the individual mentions that (one way or the other), we're forced to guess. And based on what this person wrote, I'm guessing that he/she does not do much of anything on their own. So where you or I would be able to have the boot wrapped in duct tape in a couple of minutes, such an effort might be a formidable undertaking for someone who has never does anything like that.

And so that why some of us are trying to help this individual understand that it's not necessary to pay the sky high prices of a stealership for something like this (or most anything else either for that matter). So many people don't realize that fact, and continue to get their wallet emptied unnecessarily by these clip joints. So whenever someone can be successfully converted over to using quality indy shops, I consider that to be a major victory.

However, if I've misjudged and this OP does DIY, then yes a quick patch like you mentioned would definitely be fine for this situation IMO.
 
Gotcha, I better see the direction you're suggesting. Along with a good doctor and dentist, a relationship with a good mechanic/shop is important to have. I agree with what you're saying even if one is a DIY'er.

Well you're not stepping on my toes,

Although not an independent, I had a relationship for years with a local Pep Boys who treated me good. They did some normal service, gave me quick service in a few jams and when I was there pricing tires let me know that they had free installation if you bought shocks or struts (at normal prices which were competitive for auto parts stores). Since I was soon due for front struts , and rears probably 6 months later, I got struts all around to take advantage of the labor savings. Bought 4 tires and got a free alignment out of the deal too.
 
Hell, wrap it duct tape.
Not a bad idea, a stop gap until the struts go bad. I think I'd go with something that has more staying power than conventional duct tape. Tons of products out there--Gorilla Weather Tape, Flex Tape, etc., etc.--that are heavier and stickier that conventional.
 
Dust boots on the front struts? Not the half-shafts?

Do nothing! Few struts have dust boots. They are added protection.
 
I thought I had instant email notifications on, but apparently not -- thanks for the many replies!

Are you planning on keeping rhe car to 240k mi? It's unlikely you will wear out the second set of shocks. The dust will be damaging the unprotected parts if you wait to replace the boot.
I plan to drive the car until it dies/becomes too expensive to reasonably fix. Most of the 130k are freeway, so I'm hoping to get to at least 200k.

why not 'glue it...wrap it duct tape...just how bad is this crack?
I do at least some DIY so I went to investigate using duct tape or sealant. The boots are actually torn horizontally in multiple places, so much so that they're effectively multiple segments now:

20210524_141736.jpg


I might try getting some duct tape in there. They felt pretty brittle so I might break more than I fix if I push too hard, but it's probably worth a shot.
probably for not too much more than what the stealership would charge you for the boots alone.
True, if my workarounds don't seem to work very well I'll get a quote from my favorite non-dealer repair shop to replace boots + shocks together.
 
I think it might be difficult to tape them without removing them from the coil.

There is this stuff on TV you can spray but how can you position the spray can under there?

I would probably take some time and find a good deal and replace it all -- unless I thought I could make it to 200k on the OEM shocks.
 
True, if my workarounds don't seem to work very well I'll get a quote from my favorite non-dealer repair shop to replace boots + shocks together.

The subject of shocks /struts has been discussed on this forum. That said, I can recommend AGAINST Monroe struts/ loaded complete strut. My experience (twice) is that they start going soft at 20-25 K miles.
 
Thanks for posting the picture. Well the dealer wasn't lying about the boots being cracked. Do you live in a hot, dry climate? I used to live out in western USA for a time and noticed that rubber components dried out quicker than when in eastern or midwestern states.
 
The subject of shocks /struts has been discussed on this forum. That said, I can recommend AGAINST Monroe struts/ loaded complete strut. My experience (twice) is that they start going soft at 20-25 K miles.
KYB seems to be a decent brand. I have replaced a couple of pairs of rear shocks using them.

The front struts are probably harder to install, plus you might need an alignment after you change them.
 
I'd say make sure you have money for new shocks and replace them, along with the boots, when you have symptoms of poor function. That may come sooner than otherwise because of the damaged boot, but you will only need to do it once. In the meantime, enjoy the car. It could get totaled or have some other major failure before your shocks noticeably affects function.
 
My dust boots have been torn or missing for probably the last 5 years. No ill effects whatsoever. When the struts fail, that's when I'll get new boots since they come with new struts! So OP, I wouldn't worry about it until you need new struts.
 
Do you live in a hot, dry climate? I used to live out in western USA for a time and noticed that rubber components dried out quicker than when in eastern or midwestern states.

Seattle for a few years, now Michigan for a few. Neither has been particularly dry :)

Thanks for all the feedback, I'll hold off on replacing until I see problems!
 
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