Anyone used Shell Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic oil?

The question is, why not just run 10W30 like the manual suggests. You're seriously making this harder than it should be. Why don't you think 10W30 will be fine for you?
 
oh and also i have remote start so i always run the car for a few minutes before i take off.
 
The question is, why not just run 10W30 like the manual suggests. You're seriously making this harder than it should be. Why don't you think 10W30 will be fine for you?
well i would like to keep the fuel economy and give the engine some protection with the zinc. sometimes i do like to push the car when its hot so that will give me some assurance that it wont wear faster because of that.
 
well i would like to keep the fuel economy and give the engine some protection with the zinc. sometimes i do like to push the car when its hot so that will give me some assurance that it wont wear faster because of that.
And you don't think a 40W is going to hurt fuel economy? It's thicker which means more resistance which means you're going to have worse fuel economy. I don't know anything about zinc in oil but my guess is it does little to nothing in the long run. If you're worried, go with some pricey synthetic 10W30 like Redline or Amsoil (be prepared to pay nearly $10/qt) but for me regular Mobil1 synthetic has worked just fine over the years. I'm just saying, you're not going to see any miraculous improvement with a certain type of oil.
 
but isn't my engine a bit worn out now? that's why i was thinking about the 5w-40. on a new engine it would really be unnecessary but since my engine is older now its time to up the grade to protect it like it was new and fill in the gaps that the wear caused. i been using 5-30 mobil 1 since my first oil change so because its got 82k miles on it i was thinking to give it similar protection like it was new.
 
I seriously doubt that your engine has anywhere near the amount of wear that you think it has or is it suffering from some sort of zinc deficiency. If you are that worried about it, order an analysis kit from blackstone labs. Unless you are getting noise at start up, smoking, oil consumption and otherwise poor performance, your engine has plenty of life left with only 82K. 10W30 or 10W40 and just get it changed to something thinner when you head to the frozen tundra.
 
Ask an oil question spark a debate! I guarantee!

I am actually using Shell Rotella T SB synthetic 0w40, I apologize for my mistake.
 
Well I've been running Mobil1 10W30 since I bought this car used back in June '05 with 34k miles on it. Only twice did I go with other types: once I switched to Redline because I heard good things but I noticed no difference in performance, fuel economy or oil consumption so I switched back (why pay $10/qt for something that can be had for $5/qt?). The other time was after I burned off a lot of oil and only had some 5W30 left - mind you this was in the middle of the summer but you should have seen the cloud of smoke I left behind! Oh yeah, I'm also at nearly 70k miles with 20k of those being turbocharged. Stick with any 10W30 synthetic and you will be fine.
 
but isn't my engine a bit worn out now? that's why i was thinking about the 5w-40. on a new engine it would really be unnecessary but since my engine is older now its time to up the grade to protect it like it was new and fill in the gaps that the wear caused. i been using 5-30 mobil 1 since my first oil change so because its got 82k miles on it i was thinking to give it similar protection like it was new.

What other people have said, if you're not burning oil now you're fine, just use a standard 10w30. People will switch to high weights to coverup old, worn out gaskets since it will have a harder time seeping through. You're engine doesn't have half the milage of one that should require that switch though. Just save yourself time and trouble and go with a standard 10w30 or 5w30.
 
ok guys you have more knowledge with this than me. so i will take your advice ill keep using the mobil1 5w30 as my car dont eat oil at all. BUT if i see a rotella t 5w30 synthetic then i will try it. Thanks for all the info by the way!
 
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ok i did some more research and decided to change my decision from before. i will get 0w30 mobil1 synthetic. since my engine is still fairly new (83k) i wont have much of it burning the thinner oil. 0w30 will pump faster also so that equals faster protection during start. and final reason is that it will be more fuel efficient. if anyone has anything to add to this is you are welcome. thanks
 
Just from personal experience. My engine has ~65k miles and I burn through 5W30 like crazy - especially in the summer (not some much in winter where it is advised by the manual). But hey, whatever you want to run... Can you even get 0W30 in stores?
 
ya i know its thinner but only at start up, its the same thickness as 5w30 when at operating temp. also the thinner oil will flow quicker at low temps so the engine gets lubricated quicker. my car dont burn oil YET so i will try this. i was an idiot and i put that in years ago when it first came out to stores into my old protege that had 250K on it. lol i had to add some once in a while. the thing is they say you save 2% on fuel costs HAHAHA and im cheap. LOL. the 0w30 is available in walmart for a while already. it costs 24$ for a 5 quart bottle (big jug).
 
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well like i said i put 0w-30 mobil 1 in and so far its fine. one thing that is not fine is the price of the damn oil filters from mazda now days. i always buy the 1990 mazda 929 filter because its bigger and it used to cost around 5$. like a year ago. now it costs 8$. this really pissed me off when i went to get it at the dealer. reason for me using the original filter is that it has a lot better gasket on it and a valve in it that lets the oil pass if the pressure gets too high because of the filter clogging. another thing is that after i changed the oil i added a new entry in my mainteneance text file for my car and i noticed that last time i changed oil was approx 8400 miles ago. it kinda surprised me as i didnt think it was that much but anyway i use sinthetic so i didnt cause too much damage. with synthetic i change oil every 7500 miles which is a believe schedule 2 in the mazda manual.
 

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