Anyone think I can squeee these into rear doors??

[sierra248]

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=1366W3V34&tp=111

I know I'll have to build up with MDF, but you think I can get these to fit and then get my Door Panel Back on??

2007 Speed3 GT Bose

 

[6262MS3]

Those don't look like a good idea. They're designed for a small sealed box and don't appear to be IB capable. The ED 7kv2 is, but you'd still have to sound deaden/seal the loving crap out of your back doors for them to produce any bass and not rattle. That's alot of work for a small amount of bass. I wish somebody would start mass-producing a "stealthbox" for the jack cubby, that seems like the best place to mount a sub without compromising interior space.

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

Those don't look like a good idea. They're designed for a small sealed box and don't appear to be IB capable. The ED 7kv2 is, but you'd still have to sound deaden/seal the loving crap out of your back doors for them to produce any bass and not rattle. That's alot of work for a small amount of bass. I wish somebody would start mass-producing a "stealthbox" for the jack cubby, that seems like the best place to mount a sub without compromising interior space.

Didn't the Protege have an optional subwoofer that hung under the rear shelf?
Perhaps something like that would work.

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=1366W3V34&tp=111

I know I'll have to build up with MDF, but you think I can get these to fit and then get my Door Panel Back on??

2007 Speed3 GT Bose

Interesting that you ask this. I posted this a while back.
The wiring harness is obviously for Bose systems.

For those who don't know yet, the Bose amp is under the driver's seat. The Bose sub is that plastic box under the passenger seat.
If you have any fiberglassing skills, don't mind fighting speaker wires through to the doors and want to keep the car as light as possible, here is my suggestion. Obviously I'm leaving out a lot of details, but this should give you the idea.
1) If you want to keep the factory head unit, you need to tap into the wiring harness under the driver's seat. Plan on investing in a high quality ground loop isolator.
2) Run new, proper power and ground wires for any replacement amp(s).
3) Run four conductor wire to the front doors.
4) Run 2 conductor wires to the back doors.
5) Purchase a set of whatever your favorite brand of separates is for the front doors.
6) Go to Mazda and order (less than $20.00) a pair of blank sail panels from a Mazda3 with the 4 speaker system. Install the tweeters on those.
7) Mount the mid-bass drivers in the stock speaker locations.
8) Remove the rear door panels. Remove and discard the mount that the speakers are on.
9) Cut out the cupholder insert from the back door panels.
10) Cover the hole you created when removing the cup holders with another sheet of fiberglass.
11) Reinforce the speaker grill area with a piece of MDF and cover the inside of the bottom portion of the door panel with fiberglass cloth and resin. Fit a fiberglass panel to the back of this area and seal it, effectively turning the bottom third of the door panel into a sealed speaker cabinet.
12) Mount a 6 inch JLAudio subwoofer in each of your new rear door subwoofer enclosures.
13) Wrap the entire bottom portion of the door in acoustically transparent cloth to hide the subs and the ugly fiberglass.

Harness under driver's seat
Read numbers from pin side of vehicle connector.
FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR

Left Rear Door Spkr + 5 WT/VT
Left Rear Door Spkr - 6 GY/WT
Right Rear Door Spkr + 7 WT (WT/VT at speaker)
Right Rear Door Spkr - 8 GY (GY/WT at speaker)
Left Front Door Spkrs + 9 WT/BK (WT at speakers)
Left Front Door Spkrs - 10 GY/BK (GY at speakers)
Right Front Door Spkrs + 11 WT/RD (WT at speakers)
Right Front Door Spkrs - 12 GY/RD (GY at speakers)
Right Rear - Input 15 WT/BU
Right Rear + Input 16 YW/GN
Left Rear - Input 17 YW/BU
Left Rear + Input 18 BN/BU
Right Front - Input 19 GN
Right Front + Input 20 RD
Left Front - Input 21 L.GN
Left Front + Input 22 VT
Amp Remote 23 BU
Constant 12 Volt 25 RD
Subwoofer Spkr - 26 GY/WT
Chassis Ground 29 BK
Subwoofer Spkr + 30 WT/BU

The front door tweeters are wired in parallel with the front woofers

 

[sierra248]

Hey Mid-Life, thanks for all that great info.

Do you think this is doable?

I want to make this as EZ an install as possible, no subs just 4 speakers (I keep reading horror stories on them Molex connectors in the doors also so I'm gonna try the stock wiring).

Amp is a Fosgate Punch 75x4 @ 2ohms.(Cheater Amp, Certified at like 390@ 2ohms, should be nice, light and it has speaker level inputs)

Up Front - 2 ohm Infinity 2-ways like these, Disconnect the Tweeters.

In Back - Like you said some 6" or 6.5" Woofer(Those ones I put up before are just to deep, I went and measured and even the ones you mentioned are gonna need a thick piece of MDF I think, but should fit nicely)

My Plan is to Sound Deaden the doors then:

1. Remove Bose Amp. Wire in my Punch AMP in its place using your wiring diagram. Power, Remote, Front and Rear Speakers and Ground it.

2. Disconnect the Wires Running Away from the Stock Front Door Speakers and Run just the Kappas up Front, they do run "away" from the Stock ones in series correct? (Anyone know of a way to use stock speaker wiring and use a passive crossover like the Kappas come with and not have to break molex connector) It may be possible using whats there>>>>???

3. Remove the Bose Subwoofer. I'm not looking for Rap Bass, I like it sometimes but not for this car, trying to keep it light and simple. I think with my AMP setup correctly and my doors deadened it may pound pretty nice for 4 small speakers, exactly what I want, I just hate how Terrible the Bose sounds at High Volumes.

Anyone see anything horribly wrong with trying this, it may sound great, It may very well not, but we will never know till someone tries. I realize that Wire quality and stuff makes a differences(No Arguing) but this may well be the easiest way to upgrade our Bose equipped cars. If it were easy to get thru that Molex Connector I'd run my own and run components up front with the tweeters in stock location and Bridge my Rear Channel and Run the 2x
4 ohm JL Audio Woofers @ 2ohm Bridged and get even more power but that Damn Molex Connector annoys me and I don't want any part of tearing into it. Plus I'm very interested how my Punch Amps Speaker level inputs will work when I hook it up just like the stock Bose (I may just try that first with the stock speakers to get an idea what I'm dealing with for SQ.)

OK sorry so long, got carried away for those of you who understand my dribble, What do you Think?
Tom

 

[fourthmeal]

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[sierra248]

I realize that your way into this FourthMeal, used to be there myself a little. Do you think the wiring of the AMP I listed above with no sound processor like your RF.Sixty and str8 to my new AMP is going to work. I really just want to know if you think a 4x100 Punch Amp with Speaker level inputs will work with the stock wiring for the Bose Amp, Power included?

Thanks again for your quick help and replies.
Tom

 

[fourthmeal]

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[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I realize that your way into this FourthMeal, used to be there myself a little. Do you think the wiring of the AMP I listed above with no sound processor like your RF.Sixty and str8 to my new AMP is going to work. I really just want to know if you think a 4x100 Punch Amp with Speaker level inputs will work with the stock wiring for the Bose Amp, Power included?

Thanks again for your quick help and replies.
Tom

If your factory system is Bose and you remove the factory amp, you will not be using speaker level leads, those come out of the amp. You will need to tap the line level leads that went into the amp.

Again, from my previous post - plan on investing in a quality ground loop isolator. I run a Punch 25 to Life amp and with the factory h/u it whined like mad. I put in an isolator and cleaned it right up. I eventually installed a Pioneer h/u that came out of my wife's convertible when she traded it in, and did not need the isolator anymore. It has something to do with the Bose system using a particular kind of signal (I can't remember the details right now) but you will need an isolator.

Has anyone done a detailed how-to on snaking wires into the doors? I looked at it and thought "no way in hell am I tearing into that without a guide!"

 

[sierra248]

There's some guides but when you see what fourth-meal went thru i think you ll try and stay away like me.

Yeah, Forth-Meal I'm starting to see what u mean as far as a LOC looking at the LC6, 7 and 8. Saw this too may work similarly or better and its not that crazy priced compared to some of these LOCS which are mostly passive, this is a set it and forget it kind thing I think. I kinda hate having too much control, i never stop fiddling. You can get a JL Audio CLEENSWEEP(130) pretty cheap right now, don't you think that's the best of both worlds as far as a LOC, or you still think an audio-control loc is a better idea? I guess you all think just wiring to the line inputs on the is are a bad idea, huh?

Tom

 

[fourthmeal]

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[sierra248]

Well I ordered an Amp Install Kit to run power in, which I said I wouldn't do. LOL. You guys are makeing me build the system I Want, not the one I wanted to install...LOL

Are there the molex connectors on the rear doors also? I've read that the drivers door seems to be the real PITA. I wonder if you went up to Mazda if they have a trick or tool to getting the part off. I'm also wondering what would a place like Circuit City who would charge like 30 bucks for a speaker install do? There has got to be an easier way to get that connector off or to get to those wires.

On a Kinda Different Topic, if I'm gonna run all new I decided to go with a set of components like these up Front, do you think I could Fit the Tweeters in behind the factory location in A-Pillar (Speed3 GT with Bose, No Nav)

Both of these seem to have 1 inch tweeters?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cmvDCf8txlh/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=109GT8607C

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=1086820CS&tp=106&avf=N

Thanks again Fourth and Mid-Life for your help.
Tom.

 

[fourthmeal]

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[sierra248]

What do you think about this?

Are there the molex connectors on the rear doors also? I've read that the drivers door seems to be the real PITA. I wonder if you went up to Mazda if they have a trick or tool to getting the part off. I'm also wondering what would a place like Circuit City who would charge like 30 bucks for a speaker install do? There has got to be an easier way to get that connector off or to get to those wires

Iv'e always liked JBL speakers myself. I think those are what I am going to go with. If they won't fit behind the factory tweeter loctation I've seen a few nice ez ways to do it with the standard 3 minus tweeter covers and there only lke 7. Bucks from mazda.
Great info here, thx

 

[fourthmeal]

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[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I agree with fourth on the rear speakers. I installed a two channel amp and didn't bother reconnecting my rears at all. I think the only place we disagree is that I think a LOC is overkill if you aren't going to go all the way to a proper signal processor when a simple GLI will do the job.
I tied into the signal lines under the seat because I hate working in the tight confines of the dash and it was just four bolts to get the seat out of the way and have lots of room to work.
I am one of those guys who never uses anything but round speakers even if it means making an adapter plate, so I wouldn't go with either of your choices, but if I had to pick one, I would go with the JBLs too.