Amp/Sub Install

spoonman

Member
I am getting 2 12" RF subs in a box and I am going to be setting them up myself. I'm gonna buy the amp install kit online and I was wondering what difference there is between a 4, 8 or 10 gauge wiring kit.
 
The difference is the size of the power wire. I would go for the 4 if it was my install. 8 and 10 are too small.
 
That all depends on the amp you're running. I'd just go with 4g to be safe. Smaller gague= bigger wire=more potential current flow. Basically it depends on howmuch your amp will be drawing. 8G would likely suffice, but If it's over 400w RMS worth of amp, you'd likely want to go 4gague. Check KnuKonceptz.com
 
Totally agree w/ Elemental... go w/ the 4 gauge. Especially b/c you're gonna be runnin' two 12's
 
Monster cable is usually the best brand for cable so I was gonna get this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464130608&category=38636
Does that look good?
It has the following
17 ft Blue 4ga Power Cable
3 ft Silver Ground Cable 4ga
8 ft Blue Power Cable 8ga
6 ft Silver Power Cable 8 ga
20 ft High Quality Speaker Wire
16 ft Blue Remote turn on wire
17 ft Twisted Pair RCA Digital Interconnect Cable
Solid Metal Battery Terminal Clamp
In-Line Fuse Holder With Fuse
1x4 ga in 4x8 ga out Fused Distribution Block
Ring Terminals Installed
5 ft Split Loom
15 Pc's Cable Ties
4 Heavy Butt Connectors
4 Light Butt Connectors
6 Spade Terminators
1 Pass-thru Grommett

is that a 4 gauge kit?
 
spoonman said:
Monster cable is usually the best brand for cable so I was gonna get this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464130608&category=38636
Does that look good?
It has the following
17 ft Blue 4ga Power Cable
3 ft Silver Ground Cable 4ga
8 ft Blue Power Cable 8ga
6 ft Silver Power Cable 8 ga
20 ft High Quality Speaker Wire
16 ft Blue Remote turn on wire
17 ft Twisted Pair RCA Digital Interconnect Cable
Solid Metal Battery Terminal Clamp
In-Line Fuse Holder With Fuse
1x4 ga in 4x8 ga out Fused Distribution Block
Ring Terminals Installed
5 ft Split Loom
15 Pc's Cable Ties
4 Heavy Butt Connectors
4 Light Butt Connectors
6 Spade Terminators
1 Pass-thru Grommett

is that a 4 gauge kit?
That's a great kit to go with. Sometimes the only problem is when you're attatching the power wire to the amp. Depending on the amp itself, it may only have a connection for an 8awg connector. Not too many companies make a 4awg to 8awg spade terminal. Good luck.
 
That actually is not a bad looking kit for the money, but does anyone know the quality of the cables/wire or does anyone know the brand? And NO, it is not Monster Cable! I have been happy with the kit from Knukonceptz.com right here:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK4
And it will be a little cheaper after shipping. The quality is great and there are many people on here who can vouch for them!
 
Definitely 4 awg is your solution. I'm running 8 awg and that's borderline for my 1 RF HX2 (500W RMS) setup. My amp puts out 775W at 2 ohms. In the future I may upgrade my setup to a 4 awg but I skimped out at the time because money was in short supply.
 
A single amp rated under 200 watts rms only needs 10ga.
A single amp rated under 500 watts rms only needs 8ga.
More than one amp or total watts rms exceding 500 watts should go with 4ga.
If you are running more than 1000 watts rms you should consider 1/0ga however it is difficult to stuff under the carpets and moldings of a compact car.

I also recommend a 1 farad capacitor for every 500 watts. This will reduce the strain on your alternator by smoothing out the current draw from your amps.
 
chuyler1 said:
I also recommend a 1 farad capacitor for every 500 watts. This will reduce the strain on your alternator by smoothing out the current draw from your amps.
Actually, A cap will cause more strain on your battery. I am to tired to pull up all the research that has been done that caps are basically useless.
 
Rider69 said:
Actually, A cap will cause more strain on your battery. I am to tired to pull up all the research that has been done that caps are basically useless.


but they do resolve the problem of dimming headlights when the bass hits. correct?
 
Well I'm probably gonna be pushing over 500. Is there a connector of some sort so that you can put a 4 ga on an 8 ga?

Also, will I have trouble running a 4 ga. in my protege?
 
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spoonman said:
Well I'm probably gonna be pushing over 500. Is there a connector of some sort so that you can put a 4 ga on an 8 ga?

Also, will I have trouble running a 4 ga. in my protege?
If the amp needs 4 ga the manual will tell you, and it'll provide a way to do it. Other wise...you can get a distro block. That'll take your 4ga and let you split to higher gauge wires.

Running 4ga in the pro is nothing. A bunch of people have run 0/1 ga...that's a little trickier...but still doable.
 
There will forever be a long debate as to whether caps help at all.

People can agree that caps smooth out the current draw by dampening the effects of spikes in current draw. However, they also add extra strain by being one additional component to power (while it recharges).

It will reduce dimming but could... prolong the dimmed effect or maintain a dimmed effect.

I believe most people suggest 1 farad per 1000 WRMS. My single HX2 caused major dimming but as soon as I upgraded my ground wiring to 4 awg its all but gone. I'd say 80-90% solved. Do the basics before hitting up a cap. Upgrade the big 3 and see if you really need it. Naturally, the best solution would be to rewind your alternator as you're solving the problem at the source instead of tacking on solutions.
 
You're likely better off just getting or making a good grounding kit. (not a ghetto one-fits all ebay thing either) What amp exactly are you running BTW< infact, what subs? this'll let us know alot more. and also do you ever plan on changing, or possibly adding another amp? If that's the case, I'd reccomend going the 4g-dist block route, hell might as well go the 2g or larger route, just do it once so you don't have to mess with it.

Asfor the kit, you don't need the firewall grommet, as our cars have one already with extra room just perfect for a large power wire to passthrough. and as-per the contents of that kit, you wouldn't need a 4-8g connecter seeingas it's setup with a dist block that steps from the 4g that comes through the firewall down to 8g for your amps anyway.

Thatsaid, I run 1.5kw daily with dimming, yes, but an ENTIRELY stock electrical system apart form the 2g-distro-4g-amp wire that went in without a problem. And seriosuly look intot eh KnuKonceptz kit. Quality wire is a pretty nice myth. Wire is wire, it carries electricity. I've been hard pressed to find any difference in the pheonix gold, monstercable and Knukonceptz mix of wiring that I've got. It's likely all made in the same plant and just stamped with a different name for all I know. Infact, most of the acessories are just about identical as well.
 
Thanks for the help. I will probably go with the KnuConcept 4g kit. As of the moment I am not sure what exact subs/amp I am getting. One of my buddies is going to get a package deal for me. All I do know is it's going to be RF because I already have a RF source unit. I think it's going to be 2 HE 12's, but not sure.
 
Is's easiest to run the remote wire with your RCA's since they both go from deck to amp. The low current of power that goes through it is generally not enough to cause any form of interferance. It's purpose is to "switch" the amp on. it shows voltage when the deck's on, and none when it's off. This in turn tells the amp to turn on with the deck only. This is quite important so your amp doesn't stay on and drain your battery when you leave your car. I should note that it does not in any way supply power to your amp, just works as a remote on switch.
 
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