Alternator interchange

Now I know there is not an easy way to have a high output alternator in our cars. However, has anyone looked into getting a higher output made for a different model IE tribute, mpv, ect.....

I guess the issue is the ecu controls the amperage output relative to the battery so that it can determine roughly battery temperature, but maybe the different alternator would have a better regulator on it.. Especially if you are running gel cells or solid cells, where temperature is not as much as a factor compared to liquids....

Dunno, just throwing some thoughts in the air.
I have to replace my alternator and have always had issues with headlight dimming from my stereo which is 2300+ watts rms.
I Have a Kinetik 1400 battery and have done the big 3, full motor grounding kit, and have 0 gauge ran. My volt gauge under load of the system can drop below 12 volts....not good!
 
Do you have a capacitor on your system? Could make a difference if you get a high enough farad cap for you wattage. If you don't have one and decide to get one, make sure you follow the steps to charge it to a T.
 
I removed my OEM ECU which
Meant I could not control the alter alternator

I have replaced it with what is called a

"One Wire Alternator"
 
Capacitors are not a solution to this problem, those things work well for small systems but large system just eat those things.

Brian, yeah I thought about that once I go turbo, and do stand alone ecu but seems like a lot of work just for a bumpin system lol.

I did some research, Gm and Chrysler have this same issue on many of their vehicles. they do make bypass kits thA work with mixed results.

I had another idea. I am pretty good at programming, especially with arduino boards. My idea was to make a interface that plugs into your alternator, goes to the arduino. The arduino takes the info and processes it, sending a good signal to the PCM, so no codes. But also sends a voltage, I can't remember what they are called, but two pins of the back read a certain voltage. This voltage signifies how much potential or how much draw the alternator is pulling. You have the arduino fabricate this voltage so the PCM thinks you are okay, but in reality you are sending say 200 amps, or have the possibility to.
 
The 1 Wire alternator is a 160 AMP alternator.

The Bracket was made by a bud called Kay-Why.

My alternator is the only thing I have running on my crank Pulley.
 
Get on YouTube, get ahold of a guy named Steve Meade he designs systems and is a legend in car audio. Ask him for his opinion (he's got a Tahoe with 4 FI btl 18's and a bunch of other s*** at 23000 watts. Yes, 23..0..0..0.)
 
Get on YouTube, get ahold of a guy named Steve Meade he designs systems and is a legend in car audio. Ask him for his opinion (he's got a Tahoe with 4 FI btl 18's and a bunch of other s*** at 23000 watts. Yes, 23..0..0..0.)

There is a company, missing link audio, that says they can make a module to do exactly what we Are looking for. I haven't contacted them yet. I was just thinking if there was a way to DIY, that way it would be affordable and available to build on the forums. I will see if I can contact Steve and see what he thinks.

Off topic, Brian, I want to start building a high boost motor to swap into the p5 being it won't be my DD anymore. Should I buy a used motor and tear it apart and rebuild, or go with a new block?
 
Many a forums and user will say the opposite is true. Maniac claims you can just swap this one in, but there are peeps on the forum that say a HO alternator fried their ecu.......

Who is to believe?
 
What about using one of their High-Output alternators that is for a Mazda/Ford FS-DE engine that is internally regulated - a.k.a the "one wire" alternator.

Brian where did you get yours from?
 
No, the point is that it will run independent of any ECU... Even No ECU, (Carburetor)
 
correct, it may have sounded like you can use one because you have an aftermarket ecu. But this is the style on cars before ecu was in them.
 

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