After 10 yrs first ever replacement: Need help

[bmninada]

After +10 yrs of NYC / NJ roads finally encountered clunking sounds, etc. and found my sway bar links driver side: gone. I believe the correct part # is KD35-34-170.

Just wondering if I am correct and as I usually buy only from MED MAZDA should I buy 2 of them? Is there any after market which is BETTER? I know Mazda has this so called value line which I tend to avoid so might as well as ask - does that apply here?

Also my mechanic told me I should change my oil pan bolt and washer. Any help appreciated.

 

[HyFlyer]

Idunno if the same applies to the front but I just replaced the left rear stabilizer link and found that the left and right are different parts. (I got the. Both ... Figured if one went, the other is probably close behind .

Also, my OEM Mazda parts source
https://parts.jakesweeneymazda.com/productSearch.aspx?
Seems to consistently beat even other online Mazda parts on pricing ,

 

[Jmaz]

Idunno if the same applies to the front but I just replaced the left rear stabilizer link and found that the left and right are different parts. (I got the. Both ... Figured if one went, the other is probably close behind .

Also, my OEM Mazda parts source
https://parts.jakesweeneymazda.com/productSearch.aspx?
Seems to consistently beat even other online Mazda parts on pricing ,

Interesting that you mention rear sway bar links. Two days ago on my 2014, at 77,850 miles, I discovered that the right rear link separated. After checking clearance and reviewing a few youtube videos and @Digbicks1234 experience he posted( with pictures) a while back doing his, I decided this is a job for my mechanic. If doing this yourself there was one video which showed probably the best way. Here the bottom of the links are detached first and then the bar rotated upward to give straight on access to the nuts. Otherwise it's difficult to get straight on nut access because of frame rail interference. I'm not ready for this fight and am going to wimp out and have it done.
I'm not going with OEM Mazda parts this time because of cost and using quality aftermarket instead. Mazda pricing is getting a bit steep and I'll do quality aftermarket on some items. Whether from Sweeney or Mazdaswag, @~ $35 each plus shipping it's over $82. And made in Mexico (instead of Japan like the front links I did about 3 years ago) according to one website I visited. Which may not imply lesser quality but interesting if true since Mazda has in recent years started manufacturing in Mexico.
I'm using CTR brand parts for the links and cost for both from Amazon is ~$42. CTR is an OEM supplier from Korea and I used their front sway bar bushings a few years ago. Apparently they supply a lot of the Asian auto manufacturers. The bushings even had the Mazda part number and latest revision molded right in.

On the subject of quality (in my opinion) aftermarket brands there is also Sunsong who is also an OEM supplier. They manufacture fluid related parts. Last year I replaced my brake hoses (which had no problems yet, just being proactive) with Sunsong brand. They are nicely made and priced very affordable (I used Rockauto). I'll tell you right now, the new hoses firmed up the brake pedal nicely. With new hoses, fluid flush and new pads (Raybestos EHT which have better bite than full ceramic) the brakes became great. Just an FYI. Well enjoy. Later.

 

[nickswhip24]

wow,you replaced all the brake lines and did pads but not the sway bar?
never done either....i gotta start doing my own brakes...i dunno why but i am afraid to do them myself
wish i had a better system for working underneath cars...getting kinda old to be crawling under in the driveway-Arrh!!!!!

 

[njaremka]

For replacement suspension components, I've had really good success with the Mevotech brand at RockAuto. Cheap, and well made components.

 

[Jmaz]

wow,you replaced all the brake lines and did pads but not the sway bar?
never done either....i gotta start doing my own brakes...i dunno why but i am afraid to do them myself
wish i had a better system for working underneath cars...getting kinda old to be crawling under in the driveway-Arrh!!!!!

The brake hoses and pads were done last year. I only discovered the broken link 3 days ago and ordered new one's that are due for delivery today. I hear you about getting to be too old to be crawling around the driveway. That's why this job goes to my mechanic. Brakes aren't too bad to do, it's just getting back up and trying to straighten out the legs after sitting at ground level for a while.

 

[Jmaz]

For replacement suspension components, I've had really good success with the Mevotech brand at RockAuto. Cheap, and well made components.

I understand that Mevotech (like Moog and others) has several quality levels and the Mevotech Supreme are way superior to their lower line. Another brand, Beck-Arnley, used to be consistently reliable but I understand that now you don't know what quality level part is in the box until you open it. Aftermarket parts can be a real crapshoot and that's why I'll go straight OEM Mazda for some things.

 

[njaremka]

Yeah, Mevotech Supreme components.

I agree that "Some" OEM parts will be better quality, but I've been around the block enough times to see the value in aftermarket components. Why pay twice as much for a product that might give you 95% quality compared to OEM? If the car has 100k+ miles on it and a component wore out and needs replacing, why replace with OEM to get another 100k+ miles if the aftermarket part might give you 80k+ miles? (even more so if you don't plan on keeping the car for another 100k?)

Sway bar end links are one of those components where aftermarket is usually better than OEM. Having greaseable ball joints and a wrench flat on the back side are two design improvements that will have me picking aftermarket over the OEM links.

 

[Jmaz]

Yeah, Mevotech Supreme components.

I agree that "Some" OEM parts will be better quality, but I've been around the block enough times to see the value in aftermarket components. Why pay twice as much for a product that might give you 95% quality compared to OEM? If the car has 100k+ miles on it and a component wore out and needs replacing, why replace with OEM to get another 100k+ miles if the aftermarket part might give you 80k+ miles? (even more so if you don't plan on keeping the car for another 100k?)

Sway bar end links are one of those components where aftermarket is usually better than OEM. Having greaseable ball joints and a wrench flat on the back side are two design improvements that will have me picking aftermarket over the OEM links.

I agree about the sway bar end links. Mine (CTR brand as I mentioned previously) arrived today. They have hex flats for a wrench, something the Mazda one's don't. I had to use needle nose vise grips to keep the ball stud from turning when replacing the front links a few years ago. These new one's are sealed and that's what I wanted, no grease fitting. I don't do greaseable joints and don't miss them. PITA in my book. If necessary I'll inject grease with a needle or replace the joint.

In tune with your preference for aftermarket parts, I posted previously about what I consider to be quality aftermarket brands that I discovered. Those being CTR and Sunsong. Another I forgot to mention is Sankei 555. They are another OEM supplier from Japan and popular with the Toyota off-road crowd in this country for suspension parts. A pair of their tie rod ends replaced the originals at ~60k miles because of cracked and leaking boots. And a couple months ago replaced the radiator cap with a Sankei. Made in Japan and a lot cheaper than Mazda (I mean ~$30 for a radiator cap, c'mon Mazda, this is gag pricing). I don't do the chain store Stant, Gates etc stuff for cooling system or belt parts. That's my take on things.

 

[N7turbo]

I agree about the sway bar end links. Mine (CTR brand as I mentioned previously) arrived today. They have hex flats for a wrench, something the Mazda one's don't. I had to use needle nose vise grips to keep the ball stud from turning when replacing the front links a few years ago.

I never thought about that. I swapped mine when they were still new and they came right off. They must loosen with age.

At least they don't require a hex key like some other makes.

 

[Jmaz]

I never thought about that. I swapped mine when they were still new and they came right off. They must loosen with age.

At least they don't require a hex key like some other makes.

The OEM links accept a 5mm allen wrench in the end of the stud. That and a ratcheting box end wrench might work if it's not too rusted.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

I replaced both front sway bar end links last year along with the lower control arms. The sway bar links were super easy with a 5mm hex key and a ratcheting wrench. The lower control arms on the other hand I vow to never do myself ever again.

 

[N7turbo]

The OEM links accept a 5mm allen wrench in the end of the stud. That and a ratcheting box end wrench might work if it's not too rusted.

Ahh you are right. I was picturing something different.

But yeah I did not need a hex key. The top bolts spun right off with an impact driver, and the bottoms I don't remember. I probably used a regular wrench.

I can see why they are there as the car ages.

 

[RedBaron]

The lower control arms on the other hand I vow to never do myself ever again.

Been there, done that, and I'm right there with ya, brother!

 

[Jmaz]

Been there, done that, and I'm right there with ya, brother!

I'm still grateful for you detailing your experience and the hell you went through doing that job. After reading that and as a starting point when considering changing mine, the pinch bolt failed to loosen. Went no further. Job went to my mechanic. Not a job to do at ground level. And I'm still not sure I could have loosened the control arm front mounting bolts anyway.

 

[Lazy2.5]

@ColoradoDriver @Jmaz @RedBaron

It's funny, last year I went to a mechanic working out of his garage to do my brakes and also brought him a new control arm due to a loose ball joint. I remember he texted me later that day stating that he will go ahead with the brakes but declined to do the control arm, as he did not have access to a lift.

Sounds like he made a smart choice.

 

[Saskabush]

I'm still grateful for you detailing your experience and the hell you went through doing that job. After reading that and as a starting point when considering changing mine, the pinch bolt failed to loosen. Went no further. Job went to my mechanic. Not a job to do at ground level. And I'm still not sure I could have loosened the control arm front mounting bolts anyway.

Where can a guy read this? I just finished doing all 4 links and the front LCAs on a rusty 2015. It was... not fun lol.

 

[RedBaron]

Where can a guy read this? I just finished doing all 4 links and the front LCAs

Well, it's a bit late then! But anyway, this was the start of my trials (& continue reading through the thread for more and other's reports): CX-5 Suspension control arm failure

 

[Saskabush]

Well, it's a bit late then! But anyway, this was the start of my trials (& continue reading through the thread for more and other's reports): CX-5 Suspension control arm failure

Haha yeah I struggled my way through it but I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who had troubles. For me the hardest part was getting the BJ stud out of that stupid clamp fitting on the knuckle. I got that pinch bolt out without too much of a fight but had to get really creative with pickle forks and pry bars to get the BJ to release. Not that any of the inner 19mm bolts were easy to loosen though lol.

Anyway, I actually found the end links to be equally if not more of a pain to remove. Every single bolt was rusted and was damn near impossible to remove even after cleaning enough rust out to get the hex key in. It would unthread like 2-3 turns and then just seize up due to rust on the threads. A couple required the use of vice grips on the back side to keep from spinning. And one link I had to resort to the cut off tool, luckily those few turns made just enough of a gap to get the cut off wheel in there.

Replaced with Mevotech TTX which are way more beefy and have grease zerks. The front 2 are the same (ends are 180 degree from each other), but the rear 2 are side specific. I liked that these links have flat spots on the backside flange so you can just use an 18mm wrench (which are included) to hold the stud. They also have the 5mm hex too.