AFC idle issue

[Wingman21]

dont forget the screen shots. id like to compare it to mine if u dont mind.

also, if u take out the afc, everything goes back to normal?


thanks

You want a screenshot of the MAP?

Yes it goes back to normal and my N/B is swinging back and forth at idle compare to staying in the lean section with the AFC plugged.

 

[terbow]

You want a screenshot of the MAP?

Yes it goes back to normal and my N/B is swinging back and forth at idle compare to staying in the lean section with the AFC plugged.

yea, the settings are pretty straight forward so i wouldnt need to compare those but u can send me whatever u like. hell, u can even send me the map if u want to attach it here.

 

[Wingman21]

yea, the settings are pretty straight forward so i wouldnt need to compare those but u can send me whatever u like. hell, u can even send me the map if u want to attach it here.

Im pretty much uploading the supermap to my unit so it should already be correct and I did check the settings and the MAP just to be sure.

 

[terbow]

Im pretty much uploading the supermap to my unit so it should already be correct and I did check the settings and the MAP just to be sure.

ah, hows it look on the unit? like if u download whats on the AFC to the laptop. is the data ok on the unit?

 

[Wingman21]

ah, hows it look on the unit? like if u download whats on the AFC to the laptop. is the data ok on the unit?

Yes the values and the settings are exactly the same when I re-download the MAP from the unit.

I think I am going to try to change the "Pressure or RPM" parameter to "Pressure AND RPM" and I am going to put the RPM threshold to like 1500. Maybe this will force the unit to stay silent under the 1500 RPM barrier and by that not change the signal at idle.

I am just guessing here. Maybe the unit is not acting below the 1psi barrier, but it is surely changing the signal enough to make the idle run lean... if so well I guess the unit is broken.

 

[slo03.5msp]

I changed my over pressure setting to -1 and have not had any problems. Sometimes when I change the map and reinstall it on the box itself it runs rough until I give it some gas and then it fixes itself. Of course I also have 440s on my car.

 

[NEBoosted]

I had some issues with the idle. Still working on them. I had a bad 02 "before the cat" replaced that now my car runs really lean. On idle it starts at 800ish rpm where it should be and then just starts climbing up in rpms and stops at around 1200 rpms. I'm going to play with my tuner tonight and see what i can figure out. if i have any sucess ill let you guys know.

 

[Wingman21]

I had some issues with the idle. Still working on them. I had a bad 02 "before the cat" replaced that now my car runs really lean. On idle it starts at 800ish rpm where it should be and then just starts climbing up in rpms and stops at around 1200 rpms. I'm going to play with my tuner tonight and see what i can figure out. if i have any sucess ill let you guys know.

Are you only having those idle issues with the AFC plugged in?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

I had some issues with the idle. Still working on them. I had a bad 02 "before the cat" replaced that now my car runs really lean. On idle it starts at 800ish rpm where it should be and then just starts climbing up in rpms and stops at around 1200 rpms. I'm going to play with my tuner tonight and see what i can figure out. if i have any sucess ill let you guys know.

if your AFC was modifying an ECU signal when the ECU was already getting a false o2 signal, this is why it now runs incorrectly. this will happen with just about any engine management system. you need to retune now that the car is getting a proper signal.

 

[Wingman21]

if your AFC was modifying an ECU signal when the ECU was already getting a false o2 signal, this is why it now runs incorrectly. this will happen with just about any engine management system. you need to retune now that the car is getting a proper signal.

I use the supermap for the AFC so no need for re-tuning. I am sure it is not my O2 sensor, but just want to check to be sure. Like I said, the car doesnt run lean without the AFC plugged it.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

I use the supermap for the AFC so no need for re-tuning. I am sure it is not my O2 sensor, but just want to check to be sure. Like I said, the car doesnt run lean without the AFC plugged it.

i was more referring to the guy i quoted

 

[Wingman21]

i was more referring to the guy i quoted

Oh sorry... my bad hehe!

 

[MSP #167]

Oh sorry... my bad hehe!

well mark at ss told me i can send the unit back to him for testing....i guess im going to take it out soon and overnight it to him.

 

[Wingman21]

well mark at ss told me i can send the unit back to him for testing....i guess im going to take it out soon and overnight it to him.

Did you do the manual pump testing?

Is it gonna be under warranty if its broken?

 

[MSP #167]

Did you do the manual pump testing?

Is it gonna be under warranty if its broken?

no i don't know what that is, he never instructed me to perform such a test. I guess it will be under warranty, it has a lifetime one on it so i guess we'll see.

 

[Wingman21]

no i don't know what that is, he never instructed me to perform such a test. I guess it will be under warranty, it has a lifetime one on it so i guess we'll see.

That is the test to verify the pressure/vaccum reading of the AFC.

 

[Wingman21]

Mark from SS just wrote me that the warranty on the unit was 1 year!

Why did DSMConvert said a lifetime? This is my second broken unit and I want to know why it is happening. Mark told me that me and the other guy were the only one to have this kind of issues at idle. Is that true?

Thanks

 

[jamesk]

i do not have that problem. the problem i have is the car not going into open loop when it supposed to.

i was reading up on a old thread and DSMCONVERT clams since our cars have heated o2 sensors, it takes the output b mode to work fully when the o2 sensor is fully warmed up.

the problem i have is that my o2 sensor takes about 10 mintues to warm up in my car. so for the first 10 mintues of the drive, when i go into boost, it is still in stoichometric procedures. thats a problem for me, because the first 10 mintues is critical. if someone drives my car then floors it without letting the
o2 sensor warm up, that could lead to some bad news, and more spending at protege garage, lol.

DSMCONVERT claims that in their testings, that never happend before because their test car was new. they claim, after about 20,000 miles, the o2 sensor builds up too much carbon for the sensor to get fully warmed up as it should. that is deff. my problem, because this would happen to me in my NA set up as well, with a completly different ecu.

he also said instead of buying a whole new o2 sensor, people are able to take some brake cleaner to it and clean off the carbon, and that would make the
o2 sensor work as it should. i also talked to one of the reps from protege garage and he advise me to clean off the carbon build up as well instead of me buying a whole new sensor.

however, i personally do not think this is the problem for you Wingman21, i was just trying to let you and everyone else if anyone had my problem then this is the way to fix it.

when you installed the unit, did you forget to disconnect the battery? sometimes when the ecu does not fully reset, the afc can mess some settings up from the ecu permantly. the ecu is relying on the splitsecond afc because that is the way the afc was designed to work on mazda's ecu.

you should probably think about getting your ecu reflashed incase this happend to you. there also could be a problem with your ecu that is frying the air fuel controller. it is something to think about and maybe look into. the best of luck.

 

[Wingman21]

i do not have that problem. the problem i have is the car not going into open loop when it supposed to.

i was reading up on a old thread and DSMCONVERT clams since our cars have heated o2 sensors, it takes the output b mode to work fully when the o2 sensor is fully warmed up.

the problem i have is that my o2 sensor takes about 10 mintues to warm up in my car. so for the first 10 mintues of the drive, when i go into boost, it is still in stoichometric procedures. thats a problem for me, because the first 10 mintues is critical. if someone drives my car then floors it without letting the
o2 sensor warm up, that could lead to some bad news, and more spending at protege garage, lol.

DSMCONVERT claims that in their testings, that never happend before because their test car was new. they claim, after about 20,000 miles, the o2 sensor builds up too much carbon for the sensor to get fully warmed up as it should. that is deff. my problem, because this would happen to me in my NA set up as well, with a completly different ecu.

he also said instead of buying a whole new o2 sensor, people are able to take some brake cleaner to it and clean off the carbon, and that would make the
o2 sensor work as it should. i also talked to one of the reps from protege garage and he advise me to clean off the carbon build up as well instead of me buying a whole new sensor.

however, i personally do not think this is the problem for you Wingman21, i was just trying to let you and everyone else if anyone had my problem then this is the way to fix it.

when you installed the unit, did you forget to disconnect the battery? sometimes when the ecu does not fully reset, the afc can mess some settings up from the ecu permantly. the ecu is relying on the splitsecond afc because that is the way the afc was designed to work on mazda's ecu.

you should probably think about getting your ecu reflashed incase this happend to you. there also could be a problem with your ecu that is frying the air fuel controller. it is something to think about and maybe look into. the best of luck.

The thing I doesnt understand is that udner the over pressure settings, the signals should remain unchanged so even if the O2 isnt fully warmed up the ECU should be getting the same signals since the AFC is supposed to be transparent!

Also, plugging eh AFC without resetting the ECU again should still wortk beacuse the AFC is supposed to be transparent at idle! Am I right on this? I also find it weird that I am almost the only one with this AFC problem! Happened to me twice actually... two broken units !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know that I run lean sometime even with the AFC unplugged, but it is worst with it plugged. I checked for possible leaks and also switched MAF, so the O2 is my next guess, but then again sometime the car runs fine so thats weird! It is also only happening on idle!

 

[magnumP5]

^^^ You have a wideband? I know some narrowbands are pretty stupid and will say "lean" at idle even though the car is operating within normal parameters. Also, are you throwing a system too lean code? I would assume that running as lean as you say you are you would have a CEL. Because you say you run lean with the AFC both plugged in and unplugged I'd check for an exhaust leak around and before you wideband/O2 sensor. Last summer my wideband just started reading lean all the time and did everything I could think of - replaced both O2 sensors, the MAF and cleaned everything and it was still lean. It wasn't until a week later that I got under the car and really looked around (it had been raining all week) and I noticed that I was mising a stud on the s-pipe/j-pipe connection. I replaced that and everything was normal again.