AEM and the Alternator Field Signals

You need the cam and crank signal going back to the stock ECU. You need a 1.2K resistor on the old IAT wires. That should cover it.

Later!

Steve
 
TurfBurn said:
You need the cam and crank signal going back to the stock ECU. You need a 1.2K resistor on the old IAT wires. That should cover it.

Later!

Steve

I just split off the IAT to both computers, but Steve's method will work as well. Jeph, if you want to pm me your wiring and show me which wires no longer are going to the stock ecu I can help you out...
 
do you want pics? I know the AIT wire is going to both the AEM & the stock ecu.
I need a 1.2 K resistor on that wire?

Which to wires do i cut, and solder together to make my alternator NOT go through the stock ECU?
 
no, mine charged fine. originally we didnt have the AIT shared so that somehow causes the alt to not charge.

edit: im speaking on the AEM, not the Micro but i think it works for him fine now too.
 
Last edited:
Jeph said:
do you want pics? I know the AIT wire is going to both the AEM & the stock ecu.
I need a 1.2 K resistor on that wire?

Which to wires do i cut, and solder together to make my alternator NOT go through the stock ECU?

No, no pics, just list your wiring like I have here earlier,
 
OK, so i got my alternator, surging issue taken care of. My stock ECU has something very very wrong with it. It was messing up the voltage going to the alternator, and causing the surging problem. So i got underneath the car, took out the harness that connects the alternator to the ecu, clipped the wires, and soldered them together. This successfully made my alternator a stand alone unit.

Next thing to be disconnected from my ecu, the coolant temp sensor. We are getting crazy readings on the AEM from the stock sensor, so we're going to cut it out of the equation once again, and see if it fixes my fan problem.
 
You may very likely fry out the regulator in the alternator by doing that.
It may not do it right away, but it's possible. that type of alternator
isn't supposed to like that too much... I swapped in my car to a 626
alternator back before we had solved the alternator issues. Those can be
run standalone safely.
 
Wouldn't I be more likely to fry it by having the ECU send messed up coltages to it, and causing it to surge?
 
Jeph, one thing I learned is that the stock ecu is not as messed up as we think. Every problem that we came across was our fault (wiring) not the stock ecu. Heck, we thought I had two bad alternators until Steve helped me shed some light on the wiring issue. Turns out, both my alternators are good. :)
This is why I ask that you put up your pinout. For example, are you sharing pin #4 (#4 of 104 stocker ecu) with the AEM or did you sever it completely?
 
Jeph, when I went over my wiring, I found a lot of problems, I even found that the radiator fan was never clipped, but the one next to it was! You have to look at each pin very carefully and count on the stock harness to make sure you have the right ones.
 
I agree, I had the same problem with mine. Now my fans turn on, and i solved my own alternator problems. I hope it holds up, i haven't had any problems with it since i cut the wires, and made it operate within itself.

I am still having problems with my tach below 2500 rpms, and above 6000, it jumps around alot, and above 6000, it just flips back to 3000 and stays there.
 
Jeph, you really should look over your wiring again and post it. Don't do bandaid fixes by rewiring stuff!

Okay, I'm done...what's the problem?
 
Lights started flickering again. But it oculd be that my fan was going on and off causing draw on the electrical system...
 
if your alternator is going bad you will not see an even charge rate between 13.4 and 14.2 volts. If you are outside of that range you likely have isssues.

Our stock alternator is not able to be hard wired. It has to have the stock ECU providing signals or it will fry out or stop working for one reason or another. It's a PD style alternator not an FL like older alternators that can be hard wired.
 
Heh, dim and flicker are the same thing to me...

So Steve, do i need to get a 626 alternator? can you give me a part number?
 
I don't have the part number... just look for one a 4 groove from a 1996-1999 626 and that should be the right one... i usually get them from junkyards... way cheaper :) (about 20-30 bucks)
 
Back