ABS/TCS - Different than related posts

Shaffer

Member
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1999 Millenia S
Hey guys, This is my first post but been lurking for a few months now.. My background is more turbo'd vehicles. I belong to a club "SDAC" Shelby Dodge Automotive Club, and use to have a couple turbo dodges. One being a 1987 Shelby Lancer # 148 of 800. Turbocharged 2.2 liter with a 5 speed running 18lbs of boost. I learned how to "burn" my own computer (LM) chips. This car was my first experience with vacuum solenoids. It's funny, I read a post on here about swapping in cams from the 2.5 n/a engine. That actually was the biggest "bang for the buck" mod we use to do to our cars.. You couldn't purchase a custom grind that was better than that swap, without 20k in mods to your car. I wish something would have happened with that "thought". If someone had a set of cams to donate, i'll do it. I'm going to be picking up a complete engine at a local yard with 70k on it for about 500 bucks.

I have a buddy that is into the Grand Prix's, who does his own tuning an such. I was trying to pick his brain for a bit then after a while realizing these two cars are almost nothing alike.

Anyways, I always do all my own work on all my cars (within reason). I do however, have a cousin that runs a local speed shop part time and have access to a chassis dyno which I'll like to get time on this spring.. For now, I just want to get this pig running issue free..



So on with the questions..



I have a 99 Millennia S , whereas the "ABS" and "TCS/TCS Off" dash lights don't ever go off. From the time I turn the key on, 'til I turn it off.. I have the 96 Service manual and apparently the ABS system was changed between 96 and 99.. I'm having a hard time locating a diagram so I can pin out the wheel sensors, the abs motor and what not.. I did find the connectors for the front wheels and got like 1395 ohms on one and 1322 on the other.. unfortunately I'm thinking the issue is more critical than just the wheel sensors. The PCM doesn't even give the abs system time to fault because the ABS light is always on.



So with the ABS being faulted, obviously the TCS is faulted.. so I'm sure you all know when I step on the throttle (if engine speed is below 2500-3000 Rpms) the engine seemingly cuts out, sometimes stalls.. However if I keep my foot in it, the engine tries to rev back up (SuperCharger screaming) but feels like I'm towing a house..



I do have erratic idle issues as well among others, which I am slowly chipping way at. Praying to god that it isn't the IAC.. I know there is a solenoid that controls "high idle" but it seems to check out ok. Amazingly I think my SC is ok. I have a little bit of oil trace in the CAC and front intercooler but not dripping, and no pooling inside the SC. I have replaced a couple solenoids, all the 4mm vac lines, zip tied everything, sprayed everything with ether, to check for leaks (something we use to do to check for leaks on our turbo cars)



So I know this is long, but for those of you who skipped right to the end, I''m looking for a ABS/TCS wiring diagram, possibly the diagnostics sheet. Or a way to trick the PCM into thinking the ABS is functioning correctly..



Thank you



Shaffer
 
I have been talking to the guys at DIYAutotune.com, the makers of Mega Squirt. I know they have a few units that work with some more popular Mazda's to give them a standalone fully tunable PCM.. Unfortunately they would need a group buy of at least 20 to make any moves, and I don't think we have the interest..



I am also working on utilizing a single coil, they sell for about 70 bucks, that has a higher output than stock and even higher if you pair it with a hot ignition system. It's able to be wired for our firing order I just need to work on wiring it in. I thought some might take interest in this.

I also have picked up a couple 12 volt solenoids I'm going to try to mount remotely. I just have to make sure the "Ohm's" would compare to the stock units coils and won't trigger a code..
 

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