? about forged internals
- Thread starter speedmo21
- Start date
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
you get different rods, its not a treatment done to your current internals.
Rods and pistons will run around $1200-$1400. But you really should upgrade other internal items like studs, and bearings too. Then labor. I would say to have that stuff installed including parts, no cheaper than 3000$
Rods and pistons will run around $1200-$1400. But you really should upgrade other internal items like studs, and bearings too. Then labor. I would say to have that stuff installed including parts, no cheaper than 3000$
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
I'm currently doing a complete engine build. its NOT CHEAP. If you don't have money and time to spare, dont do it.
insanoman2005
Banned
- :
- 2004 Mazda 3s
Wagnermotorsports.net is selling forged shortblocks, preassembled and ready to go for $2300+$600 core.
That's Pauter Rods, JE pistons, and the usuall other junk... send them an email for exact details.
That's Pauter Rods, JE pistons, and the usuall other junk... send them an email for exact details.
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
what kind of machining does that include? because i KNOW you aren't just throwing rods and pistons in a USED block and calling it a dayinsanoman2005 said:
strongbear0
Member
mp3moose said:
No way will you ever get them installed for 500. I am paying 1100 for install and around 3500 total for rods, pistons, machine work, engine removal, shortblock assembly and reinstalling the motor. Like others have said "if you don't have the money don't even think about it. I will have around 11000 invested in my car when I am finished with everything, but I will be able to boost 18-20psi with no problems.
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- 2001 Mazda MP3
exactly. DO IT RIGHT. PLEASE PLEASE dont find a used block, and just install rods and pistons. NO WAY. MACHINE it, give it a fresh start. Don't wait 4 years to find out you should have gotten new bearings. Do it all at once.
insanoman2005
Banned
- :
- 2004 Mazda 3s
like I said, send Wagner an email for all the specifics.
strongbear0
Member
mp3moose said:
Shop around? Why so I can get a bargain basement built motor. No thanks. I want a reliable 18-20psi daily driver and that will not happen if I go cheap on a motor build. I will be honing cylinders, porting and polishing head, valve job, balance crank, o-ring the head, putting in cp pistons 8.5:1, oliver rods, arp head and main studs. Total motor build will cost 3700 with pistons and rods. Install is 1100 of that. 700 to pull motor and 400 to build the shortblock. But I don't plan on going boom after an engine build that's why I am doing it right the first time.
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- 2001 Mazda MP3
agreed. do it right the first time so you dont end up wasting more time and money on it.strongbear0 said:
I still know guys that can do it for less than that......I myself am buying a used block and having it machined by a friend of mine here in town that builds mostly LT-1 and LS-1 motors, but he is only going to charge me 50-100 to machine it, depends on how bad the block is. Then I will put it on a stand in another friends shop and work on it on the weekends and as I have the money until it's done.....when it's done I'll save some more and take the old engine out, pull the head and intake off and have them ported/polished/valve job etc. I should be out around 1500 or so by the time the motors done just from doing it myself.
strongbear0
Member
Tommy1005 said:
Well that's good for you. I am spending around 700 just for the port and polish and valve job. If you can get it done cheaper go right ahead I was just stating the simple fact that a motor is not cheap to build. I would be interested to see who's built motor lasts longer. I would wager that mine and pdhaudio83's will last a lot longer at 20psi. That's because I am getting my motor built by a performance shop that builds 8 second mustangs and plenty of 10 second hondas. Bad machining, bad port and polish, and bad valve job 500 dollars. A msp built the right way boosting 20psi throwing down 300+whp, priceless.
strongbear0
Member
Tommy1005 said:
By the way 1500 is not enough to buy rods, pistons, new rod bearings, arp hardware and a used shortblock. So you might want to throw a little more in the budget.
man I'm buying it pieces at a time.....that was a ballpark figure. I'm glad you can spend $700 and sleep at night.....I just wouldn't be able to. My motor will probably last longer when I build it because I'm not trusting some shop to do the work.....I'm building it in my own shop, under my supervision, and yes, I know what I'm doing. A bad valve job may be $500, but when you are good friends with someone and help him build his 10 second n/a trans-am, then you get some perks. Just because I'm not spending a million dollars on my motor doesn't mean that I'm not getting quality. Yours may last longer at 20psi, but I'm not going to run 20psi.....not enough power at 20psi. My goal is to run 8.5 compression and a minimum of 25 psi, I really want more towards 30, and if I don't get 400 at the wheels I will be upset, I'd be happy if I hit 450-500. So whether you pay 3-4K, or I pay 1500-2000 it doesn't really matter. All that matters is an engine gets built right, doesn't matter how much you pay. I know numerous motors that have been built for the cost of parts and they seem to run fine for a long time. So, to each his own.
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- 2001 Mazda MP3
Tommy- do you have a torque plate for the FS-DE ? What are you doing also to correct crankwalk and oil starvation? Just making sure you cover those bases... 
strongbear0
Member
Tommy1005 said:
Actually I would bet that at 20psi on a gt2871r with the port and polish, valve job, and new intake manifold I will be putting down closer to 400whp. And remember you are the one who said I was paying too much. All I did was state that you did not have enough in your budget to aquire all the parts you said you were getting. I will have lugo performance do the build. If you look at their site you'll see Dennis Lugo is the FFW record holder with an 8.07 @ 175, fastest outlaw on a true 10.5 inch tire. So it's not like some fool is building the motor. It's being built by a PERFORMANCE shop not in my GARAGE. But wtf I don't care you do it your way and I'll do it my way. After all I don't give a **** about your motor and wether or not it goes boom, I am only concerned that mine doesn't.
